07-17-2021, 09:28 PM | #45 |
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By the way guys, after you lower the car you may wish you had installed spacers. The wheels may look a bit sunken into the car more noticeably. I lowered mine on H&R in January, I'm so glad I installed spacers.
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07-18-2021, 06:58 PM | #46 | |
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07-26-2021, 07:10 AM | #47 |
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As Boss330 stated, I can CONFIRM that the 3 nuts for the rear shock tower can be removed without backseat/shelf disassembly. All it takes is rear speaker removal, a 1/4' and 3/8' drive ratchets with 13 mm sockets, swivel joints, 13 mm (1/4" drive) deep well socket and a telescopic magnet to capture and re-thread the nuts without loosing them (this is key!). Difficulty level is low.
I am in the process of finishing installing Eibachs now. Turned out to be a very enjoyable project with minimal fuss. L Last edited by Luftpost; 07-26-2021 at 08:50 AM.. |
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09-10-2022, 03:20 PM | #48 |
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I just completed this DIY on my other F06 yesterday and figured I’d add a few notes. The front is basically unchanged from what I wrote.
For the rear: I still lowered the rear shelf out of the way and onto the rear seat backs as I did in the DIY, even knowing the speaker-cover trick works. The reason being is it only added maybe 10 minutes total to the entire project, removal and re-install (since I knew exactly what tools I needed and parts needed to come off this time) and it made it much easier to thread the nuts onto the strut mount as I was doing it by myself this time. Being able to have more open area to be both holding the strut with one hand while also blindly starting the nuts onto the studs with the other hand was worth the “hassle” of removing the rear shelf, to me. Also, having an impact gun instead of just basic hand tools was a game changer especially on that bolt that holds the strut to the rear hub. There is great access to the bolt as long as you have an extension and swivel adaptor. I have a 1/2” impact gun and after a few on-off pulses with that bad boy that nut popped loose. That part with the hand tool probably took me 30 minutes per side last time! Done in seconds with the impact wrench. The part in my DIY about the “number 7” stamp on the rear strut upper mount is irrelevant. The stampings on this car were different. The main point still stands though that the three studs aren’t equidistant and need to be correctly oriented to have any hope of them going through the holes in the body. It took about 30 seconds of fiddling, again, by myself, to get them through the holes but much less time than last time since I knew there was a specific orientation to that top mount. Hardest part this time was being solo and having to push down on the brake rotor with all my weight almost while also trying to line up the lower joint on the strut to the rear of the carrier. Also I didn’t even need the spring compressors at all on the rear, removal or install. Other than those notes, pretty much the same as my original DIY! Hopefully it’s continuing to help people. Last edited by board57796; 09-10-2022 at 03:42 PM.. |
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07-26-2023, 07:39 PM | #50 |
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One of the best mods you can do on these cars. It will settle a bit over the next week or so. I have had me Eibachs for quite some time and have no complaints. Ride quality is very good.
Did you have to take the rear shelf off or were you able to get in through the speaker access area? L. |
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08-02-2023, 11:06 PM | #51 | |
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11-02-2023, 08:34 PM | #52 |
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I’ve seen others have run into the issue that the metal cap on top of the shock collar stops the vtf collar from going on. Anyone found a way to remove it easier? Or is it just bang it off or heat it up to remove? Don’t want to damage the shock or risk puncture removing it but if some force is needed I guess so
Last edited by Drecoop757; 11-02-2023 at 09:29 PM.. |
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