06-24-2013, 06:14 AM | #45 |
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curious about engine break-in procedures.
while no engineer, i subscribe to the idea that babying a new engine under low rmp's is baaaaaad. Instead, go through various heat cycles: getting the engine up to relatively high rpm (say 5k) and then stepping off gas and allowing engine to decelerate, followed by cooler lower rpm operation, then repeating, then cooling/lower rpms, then varying degree of accel/decel over wide rpm/load ranges. absolutely no babying of a new engine. ive done on this on every new car ive ever had, and have never experienced significant oil consumption. granted, could be coincidence. sure any FI engine will consume some oil. even a NA V8 in the E90 M3 would, but just not to any significant degree. i think a lot of it also depends on context. a race car sees much higher stresses and would expect to see quite a bit more than a street car. I'm only at 900 mi on this one, so too soon to tell, and YES, I am knocking on wood as I type this. |
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06-24-2013, 10:47 AM | #46 | |
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Investigation of Oil Consumption Issues should begin with the CCV / Intake system. Oil in the intake should not be considered normal and reduced to as minimal amount as possible. This was taken from a recent article, as it also relates to the BMW owners oil consumption issue; PVC-INTEGRATED ROCKER COVERS One of the most distinctive features of the new LS1 Corvette engine is it's domed valve covers, which house the patent-pending, integrated positive crankcase ventilation system designed to enhance oil economy and oil life, while reducing oil consumption and contributing to lower emissions. The valve covers also hold the individual direct mount coil packs. Between the coil packs, the domed sections of the covers contain baffles that separate oil and air from of the crankcase gases - about 3 times the oil/air separation capability of previous engines. BMW's CCV system is most likely the problem - There are ways to modify/filter their system to reduce oil consumption. |
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06-24-2013, 10:56 AM | #47 |
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While the debate on how to break in an engine will rage on forever, the excessive oil consumption (at the rate of 1 quart per ~1000 miles) that some members experience is an unrelated problem.
For what it's worth: While I didn't baby my engine, for the first 1000 miles I made sure to vary the revs, avoid constant speed, keep it away from redline and let the engine warm up before shutting back down. Similar to what BMW instructions read on my E92 M3. This is as much for the entire drivetrain as it is for the engine. I do not experience the excessive consumption. |
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06-24-2013, 12:32 PM | #48 |
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07-01-2013, 05:27 AM | #49 |
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started an "official" oil consumption test at my dealership this week. they will measure the oil consumption from my last visit till the minimum oil level warning appears again. this time they added 2qt of oil though. let's see how many miles I am able to drive before the warning appears.
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07-01-2013, 08:20 AM | #50 | |
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As of yesterday afternoon, that Low Oil Reading has come up on my iDrive Screen once again. That is nonsense. My car reads 2846 on the Odometer, and now this will be the THIRD time I have to go get oil added to my car, and I am sure I will have to pay for it, making this THREE time I have had to pay for an oil top off for a car that is covered under "Free Maintenance". I was just there last month for my second oil top off. Rediculous. Please understand that I am not upset about the money, so much as me becoming quite annoyed with having to take time out of my day to stop at the service center to cough up 10 bucks for a quart of oil for a car that I picked up in February and has less than 3000 miles on it. That is unsat IMHO.
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07-01-2013, 09:36 AM | #51 | |
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Btw, I never paid for the oil at my dealer. I also wouldn't mind paying for it but what's more annoying is the time I always have to spend to go there. Easily 1.5 hours each trip |
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07-01-2013, 11:41 AM | #52 | |
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When I had to pay for oil the second time, I asked my SA, "why would I have to pay for oil for a car that is supposed to be covered under the manufacturer's warranty that clearly states, $0 maintenance...?" He told me that it doesn't cover oil top offs, only scheduled maintenance. That actually made sense to me, but now this has become a huge inconvenience to have to go out of my way to drive to the service center, then pay for a quart of oil. When they ask me to pay for the third quart tomorrow morning when I go there before heading to work, I'm gonna ask the SA should I stop bringing the car in once a month for a quart of oil, let the engine run on low oil until it explodes, and then have the car towed in at the expense of BMW and then let them fix the car for $0 maintenance at that time!!
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07-01-2013, 04:41 PM | #53 | |
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BMW has instructed its dealers to top off the 650 at no cost to the owner (as long as the car is still under warranty/maintenance). The engine oil issue is a known issue at BMW. The last time I brought my car in, the SA just topped it off without even checking/measuring the oil, and did it without even keying in my key fob so that they have a record. Just did it. NO questions asked and said that if I ever need to top off, just bring her in. |
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07-01-2013, 09:09 PM | #54 |
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Drives: 2014 650i X Gran Coupe M Sport
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tobermory, Ontario
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Am I just lucky or did the problem get fixed in the 2014 model year? I think the latter may be true after reading this thread.
I rechecked my oil today. At 8,000 km (5,000 miles) it is at the full level just the same as when I took delivery nearly three months ago. Haven't added a drop. I do not do a lot of urban driving - in fact I rarely use the car for anything but 100-200 km trips, mostly highway.
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07-02-2013, 05:49 AM | #55 | |
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07-02-2013, 08:10 AM | #56 | ||
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The problem was I was going to the service center closest to me out of convenience, and not the one where I took delivery. Easy fix. Thanks again guys.
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06-25-2022, 10:08 PM | #58 |
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Take a look down the list of BMW recommended LL-01 (long life-01) oil viscosity for the N63/N63TU/N63TU2/N63TU3 (you didn’t say which one you have). There should also be mention of recommended oil viscosity in your owners manual. There’s also an owners manual built into iDrive.
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06-25-2022, 10:10 PM | #59 | |
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06-25-2022, 10:26 PM | #60 |
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From owners manual:
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06-25-2022, 11:12 PM | #61 |
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And since there’s an owners manual in iDrive which is specific to your car’s VIN and features…its easy to find info due to multiple ways to pull up info. You can do a keyword search or search by pictures or search using the quick reference:
My 2013 650ixGC lists 4 alternative oil viscosity types:
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06-26-2022, 04:25 PM | #62 |
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Qsilver7 to the rescue and educational throw down again! This thread was resurrected from almost a decade ago! Oil and oil viscosity has been talked about 100s of times since then on these forums.
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06-27-2022, 07:19 AM | #63 |
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06-27-2022, 07:48 AM | #65 |
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Appreciate it I just bought it and this is my 1st Bmw so wanted to get the best information before I screw something up.
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06-27-2022, 02:04 PM | #66 |
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If you’re going to DIY…I also recommend using a German brand oil filter like BMW (from your local dealer’s parts department) or go online and find vendors selling a Mahle, Bosch, Hengst, etc (just to name a few).
And since you need 10 quarts…you can also find 5 quart jugs at Walmart for $20-$30 a jug. See some examples below (you may have to order them either to the store or your home sometimes when stock gets low):
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