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      01-02-2019, 02:12 PM   #1
JC04
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Battery replacement

Does anyone know what's the best AH for battery replacement in the M6 GC?

90 ah, 92 ah or 105 ah? I checked realoem.com and it stated all three as an option.

I remember reading about 90 ah was too low for the M5 & M6 and they moved to 105 ah to resolve the issue. However, in the realoem.com seems updated the following spec at the latest recommendation

01 Original BMW AGM-battery 90 AH 1 10/2018 61216924023

In addition, I checked with rockauto for battery options and they have 90, 92 and 105 as an option, too.

I'm just wondering has anyone replaced their battery and what did you use?
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      01-03-2019, 03:57 AM   #2
brad850csi
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I don't see why you wouldn't go with the biggest, however I am aware of some issues with serial numbers and coding the battery to the car...probably worth a call to the dealer.
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      01-03-2019, 09:28 AM   #3
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The 105Ah 61 21 7 604 808 is for all M6 incl. the LCI models. Whereas the 92Ah for the pre-LCI was.
As per ETK.
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      01-03-2019, 12:15 PM   #4
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If a battery is changed, does it have to be coded to the car? What tool is needed to code it?
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      01-03-2019, 12:48 PM   #5
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Yep, but don’t ask me about the tool.
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      01-03-2019, 01:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whipple View Post
If a battery is changed, does it have to be coded to the car? What tool is needed to code it?
It should be registered..
https://bimmertips.com/bmw-battery-r...ing-explained/

Apps like Carly can do it.

I use ISTA-D



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      01-04-2019, 09:48 AM   #7
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can also be done with foxwell tools such as the NT510

http://www.foxwellmall.com/wholesale...languages.html
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      01-04-2019, 01:15 PM   #8
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This is the dilemma for every BMW owner out there actually....or every owner to cares about their car. I had the same issue with my X5, there are 3 capacity batteries that will fit, 90, 92, 105. In theory, you want the largest one, the 105.

When I took it to the dealer, they said they recommend sticking to the same battery that the car was equipped with. Mine was already the 105 from the factory, so they gave me a 105. I would advise you ask this question to the dealer.

And yes, you'll need to get the battery coded eventually. Your timing is actually good right now. During the winter, the dealership runs a mail-in-rebate program for battery installs and it's about the same price as buying an OEM battery and paying an indy code it for you. That's what I did, I wanted the piece of mind that the coding was going to get done right.
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      01-04-2019, 11:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by castlesteve View Post
can also be done with foxwell tools such as the NT510

http://www.foxwellmall.com/wholesale...languages.html
Ok cool Thanks , do you know if this scan tool retract the rear calipers for a pad change?
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      01-05-2019, 04:15 PM   #10
JC04
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys!

I tested the battery and it's still good. Recharged it using an external charger solved this issue. From my research an AGM can last up to 8 years if you take care of it.

I think because I drive short distances and not over 2k rpm often. In addition, I live in a cold place so it didn't help. To keep the battery fresh, I'll have to recharge it once every few weeks.


So the issue I encounter was a message of "increased discharge battery" appeared after I shutdown the car. I thought the battery couldn't hold charge anymore; therefore, either the alternator or the battery was bad. I tested the alternator and battery, and it was all good! Anyways, I just wanted to point it out in case someone runs into the same issue would help them out. Always test it first and confirm that's the issue.

Last edited by JC04; 01-05-2019 at 04:31 PM.
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      01-06-2019, 09:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC04 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions, guys!

I tested the battery and it's still good. Recharged it using an external charger solved this issue. From my research an AGM can last up to 8 years if you take care of it.

I think because I drive short distances and not over 2k rpm often. In addition, I live in a cold place so it didn't help. To keep the battery fresh, I'll have to recharge it once every few weeks.


So the issue I encounter was a message of "increased discharge battery" appeared after I shutdown the car. I thought the battery couldn't hold charge anymore; therefore, either the alternator or the battery was bad. I tested the alternator and battery, and it was all good! Anyways, I just wanted to point it out in case someone runs into the same issue would help them out. Always test it first and confirm that's the issue.
My car sits a lot in the winter, I will take it out on nice days , but when it sits,I hook up a trickle charger to keep the battery healthy, it only takes 2 mins to hook up
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