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      05-30-2019, 10:41 PM   #45
burkhacs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itzjoker View Post
So to my understanding:

2012 have pre TU engines and should be avoided

2013 have early TU engines are more reliable but may have some issues

2014 should be good?

Is there any way to verify if your car has TU engine?
I have a 2013 "N63T" engine and it has been great to me so far (knocking on wood). You can find the engine, among many other details, with a VIN decoder like this one
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      06-01-2019, 08:28 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamvanja View Post
Consider 640i. Originally wanted a 650i but was horrified by the stories. After thinking more about it, realized that I wanted V8 only for the sound. After test driving it however, the difference in sound between 640 and 650 was minimal inside the car. At that point, 640i was a no-brainer.
The only thing that seems a "normal" thing with BMW's i6 is crappy gaskets that result in oil leaks, especially if you live in a warmer climate.
The 40i uses active sound management within the cabin, the 50i doesn't pump sound through the speakers IIRC
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      06-01-2019, 11:19 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinalRenegade View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamvanja View Post
Consider 640i. Originally wanted a 650i but was horrified by the stories. After thinking more about it, realized that I wanted V8 only for the sound. After test driving it however, the difference in sound between 640 and 650 was minimal inside the car. At that point, 640i was a no-brainer.
The only thing that seems a "normal" thing with BMW's i6 is crappy gaskets that result in oil leaks, especially if you live in a warmer climate.
The 40i uses active sound management within the cabin, the 50i doesn't pump sound through the speakers IIRC
are you sayin the 640i has active sound i was under the impression that my 640i gc does not pump out fake noises..
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      06-02-2019, 02:44 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsocold View Post
are you sayin the 640i has active sound i was under the impression that my 640i gc does not pump out fake noises..
+1. Thought it was M cars and the 640d.
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      06-04-2019, 11:20 PM   #49
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Had an '11 750i (n63) from 50k-80k never had an issue until 80k white smoke starting coming out exhaust.. turbo was about to blow, bmw quoted me 3-10k!!! depending on turbo/turbo lines having to be changed they didn't know.. and I was 3 months out of warranty

So I traded it in for a 2014 650i (n63tu) currently have 44k got it at 36k. It has a tune and exhaust mods. Haven't had any major issues, only things are my driver seat is a little loose when I take tight corners it shifts quarter of an inch depending which way but I think there's a solution to that in this forum somewhere(bmw quoted $250 just for diagnostics). And yes my steering wheel ticks too sometimes when I turn it but that's getting meticulous if your radio is on you don't hear it at all! And the biggest issue right now is my guibo's need to be replaced which is about 1k job from the dealer but that's normal wear so..

I have to say I've had 4 bimmers and they've all been great cars to me I swear by bmw BUT my rule of thumb is buy a bmw CPO and get rid of it after it ends lol ESPECIALLY the v8 cuz engine costs are $$$$ idc what you say you can't expect a car to have no issues all the way to 80 or 100k your just gambling with time and sometimes you get lucky but when that one thing goes wrong it's not a few hundred bucks it's more like a few thousand

But I'm surprised all these members have issues I thought the n63tu was a very solid motor :
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      06-05-2019, 12:55 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjasonSU View Post
What's a guibo WhiteTornado
Aka driveshaft flex disc. "A coupling used to transmit rotational torque between the drive shaft and the companion flange on mechanical devices, such as an automobile engine."-google
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      06-05-2019, 12:56 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteTornado View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjasonSU View Post
What's a guibo WhiteTornado
Aka driveshaft flex disc. "A coupling used to transmit rotational torque between the drive shaft and the companion flange on mechanical devices, such as an automobile engine."-google
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My bad just looked it up!!
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      06-05-2019, 01:45 PM   #52
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I'm about to purchase a 2014 650i with almost 100k miles...gonna get a PPI and extended warranty on it.

My only concern now is the turbos being old. Should I gamble?
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      06-05-2019, 02:00 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itzjoker View Post
I'm about to purchase a 2014 650i with almost 100k miles...gonna get a PPI and extended warranty on it.

My only concern now is the turbos being old. Should I gamble?
I would try to find one with less miles. IMO
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      06-05-2019, 04:48 PM   #54
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Welp found another with 90k mikes but the motor has been replaced by BMW with only 20miles on current motor for the same price as the other one I was going to purchase with 95k miles. What do you guys think of a vehicle with the motor replaced by BMW?
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      06-05-2019, 05:18 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by itzjoker View Post
Welp found another with 90k mikes but the motor has been replaced by BMW with only 20miles on current motor for the same price as the other one I was going to purchase with 95k miles. What do you guys think of a vehicle with the motor replaced by BMW?
I'm guessing your price point is under $20k there's a reason they are so cheap now. Like previously stated I would search for one with lower miles.
Also I'm not sure what warranty co's will come to play after 100k.
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      06-05-2019, 11:25 PM   #56
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Actually price for those were around $22k-23k. Am I paying too much? Haven't found any under $20k. I got a quote from Endurance for 5k extended warranty for 5 years/50k miles, which I think is reasonable. Covers mostly everything including turbos which is my main concern at this mileage.

A 2013 with 75k miles is going for around $25k.

To be honest, I only plan on keeping car for 2-3 years, and by then switch to an M6 GC
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      06-06-2019, 03:43 PM   #57
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Not sure on the prices but you'd know better than me from being in the market.
Turbos aren't the only thing to worry about as the miles get that high.
Also look up carbon buildup in the n63 engines. The entire engine needs to be taken out.
How can you verify the 90k car has a brand new engine?
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      06-07-2019, 12:47 PM   #58
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I will say it again. My 2015 650xi Gran Coupe, which I purchased with 43K miles on it six months ago, is, by far, the best car I have ever owned.

I have been to the dealer twice for very minor issues and the car runs like new. It is an incredible machine that I purchased for less than half the price as when it was new.
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      08-23-2020, 04:12 PM   #59
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I found this old thread and it's been helpful. I'm looking at a 2012 F13 650i. It only has 28K miles, is well optioned, and the asking price is $29,500. The current owner is its third and he bought it from a 94-year-old man. So I doubt it's been driven hard. But it obviously has the N63 engine... The owner is getting a mechanical inspection done at a dealership this week so I'll be curious to see what they find.
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      08-24-2020, 06:05 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinalRenegade View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamvanja View Post
Consider 640i. Originally wanted a 650i but was horrified by the stories. After thinking more about it, realized that I wanted V8 only for the sound. After test driving it however, the difference in sound between 640 and 650 was minimal inside the car. At that point, 640i was a no-brainer.
The only thing that seems a "normal" thing with BMW's i6 is crappy gaskets that result in oil leaks, especially if you live in a warmer climate.
The 40i uses active sound management within the cabin, the 50i doesn't pump sound through the speakers IIRC
640 coupe DOE NOT pump in fake sound, GC does.
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      09-03-2020, 10:44 PM   #61
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2016 Gran Coupe 97k no issues 2 1/2 years ownership. Will take it to 1--k. Change oil every 5/6k and keep the tank full. Most importantly, DRIVE IT.
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Last edited by kkinthe6; 09-03-2020 at 11:13 PM..
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      09-11-2020, 09:58 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8LIFE View Post
Long term BMW owner here and looking to hear your opinions with the reliability of N63tu engine and whether we should keep it out of warranty.

My wife has a 2014 650i xdive with 65,000 miles on it. During the 4 years ownership, the car has been great so far. Only two problems to date, 1st, it's engine misfire caused by coil failure. 2nd, The soft automatic door unlatched on her several times when driving, and dealer fixed it under warranty. Other than that, the car is a beast. My wife loves it so much and want to keep it for another several years. But I'm worried about the future reliability issues, and want to get rid of it before big repair bills coming in.

So, I am asking anyone that has a 650i with over 60,000 miles to comment here on any maintenance issues, or mainly large cost items.

Please chime in with your complaints and problems here.

Cheers,
I have a 640. The reason I have a 640 and not a 650 is all the problems I've seen others have with their 650. I'd say a warranty is a must.
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      09-11-2020, 10:04 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezmaass View Post
When asking about the 650, you really need to look at the year - in particular, does it have the N63 or N63TU. The N63, in my opinion, should be avoided at all costs. It's notoriously unreliable. The N63TU, on the other hand, is a significant improvement - but still not a car you should own "lightly."

As the old saying goes, there's nothing more expensive than a used German luxury car. Now, that's not the way it NEEDS to be, but you should be prepared for it. In roughly 20 years of owning BMWs, some of which I've kept to around (and over) 100k miles (always purchased new), I've had very good experiences with them mechanically - even when the broader model has known for problems.

A few observations:

- BMW is fantastic at inline-6's - this is their heritage. The V8s? They're low volume.

- You need to know what you're buying - how was the car treated by the previous owner (if buying used)? Was it driven by a businessman on highway trips? Was it driven by a younger guy who tuned it and flogged it? I'd sooner buy a 50k mile car driven by the former than a 15k mile car owned by the latter.

- Preventative maintenance. Too many people, especially once the car is out of warranty, think that "oil changes" equate to maintenance. There's much more to it, so look for complete maintenance records. Cars with incomplete maintenance records should be avoided.

- Drive it respectfully - it's a powerful GT, not a sports car. Some people confuse high HP with thinking they can drive a GT as if it's a sports car. No, the engines weren't designed for racing - holding high revs, excessive heat dissipation, endurance on a road course, etc. It was designed for highway cruising, lots of air flow, high but constant speeds, and occasional kick-down for passing. That's where it's at home. Find the one that's been driven this way.

- City vs. Suburb vs. Rural. If I was buying a car like this used, I'd be going after the one that lived in a more rural area, followed by a suburb. I'd avoid a city car altogether. Stop and go, in general, is bad for anything mechanical - engine speeds, transmission, brakes, suspension, etc.

Overall, if the car was well maintained, driven as it was designed, not mechanically modded (e.g. tuned for extra boost), and lived in a low wear-and-tear environment, there's a decent chance it'll be a keeper IMHO. But even still, consider that it's a $100k+ car, and while cars depreciate, new parts and labor do NOT. So when (not if) something goes wrong, expect it'll cost you a pretty penny. It's not a 3-series, which in and of itself, isn't a Honda Civic. So, everything is relative.

If you're owning outside of the warranty period, decide whether to self insurance or get a warranty. If a $5k repair is going to break the bank, then buy a warranty.
It's too bad BMW doesn't come up with a better way to bring cool air into the engine compartment and remove the excessive heat. Even aftermarket options don't seem to be there for this. In the old days if you wanted to cool cars down, you swapped thermostats, changed a hood that had vents, etc.
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      09-11-2020, 10:05 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezmaass View Post
When asking about the 650, you really need to look at the year - in particular, does it have the N63 or N63TU. The N63, in my opinion, should be avoided at all costs. It's notoriously unreliable. The N63TU, on the other hand, is a significant improvement - but still not a car you should own "lightly."

As the old saying goes, there's nothing more expensive than a used German luxury car. Now, that's not the way it NEEDS to be, but you should be prepared for it. In roughly 20 years of owning BMWs, some of which I've kept to around (and over) 100k miles (always purchased new), I've had very good experiences with them mechanically - even when the broader model has known for problems.

A few observations:

- BMW is fantastic at inline-6's - this is their heritage. The V8s? They're low volume.

- You need to know what you're buying - how was the car treated by the previous owner (if buying used)? Was it driven by a businessman on highway trips? Was it driven by a younger guy who tuned it and flogged it? I'd sooner buy a 50k mile car driven by the former than a 15k mile car owned by the latter.

- Preventative maintenance. Too many people, especially once the car is out of warranty, think that "oil changes" equate to maintenance. There's much more to it, so look for complete maintenance records. Cars with incomplete maintenance records should be avoided.

- Drive it respectfully - it's a powerful GT, not a sports car. Some people confuse high HP with thinking they can drive a GT as if it's a sports car. No, the engines weren't designed for racing - holding high revs, excessive heat dissipation, endurance on a road course, etc. It was designed for highway cruising, lots of air flow, high but constant speeds, and occasional kick-down for passing. That's where it's at home. Find the one that's been driven this way.

- City vs. Suburb vs. Rural. If I was buying a car like this used, I'd be going after the one that lived in a more rural area, followed by a suburb. I'd avoid a city car altogether. Stop and go, in general, is bad for anything mechanical - engine speeds, transmission, brakes, suspension, etc.

Overall, if the car was well maintained, driven as it was designed, not mechanically modded (e.g. tuned for extra boost), and lived in a low wear-and-tear environment, there's a decent chance it'll be a keeper IMHO. But even still, consider that it's a $100k+ car, and while cars depreciate, new parts and labor do NOT. So when (not if) something goes wrong, expect it'll cost you a pretty penny. It's not a 3-series, which in and of itself, isn't a Honda Civic. So, everything is relative.

If you're owning outside of the warranty period, decide whether to self insurance or get a warranty. If a $5k repair is going to break the bank, then buy a warranty.
On point!
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      09-11-2020, 10:07 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsocold View Post
thankful to hear the 650 has lots of problems so i can sleep better at night, i wanted it so badly over my 640 and i could have gotten it so easily for about 1-2k price difference if that..( CPO'd ) so i forced myself to a 640i since i have a n54 135i i knew what the n55 was about.
I have a 640 m sport coupe. Love the car. Only options it doesn't have is night vision and B&O sound system. Love my car. Has plenty of giddy up for me. It leaves my new Mustang BULLITT in the dust.
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      09-11-2020, 01:06 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by city1991 View Post
I have a 640. The reason I have a 640 and not a 650 is all the problems I've seen others have with their 650. I'd say a warranty is a must.
My 2015 650 is just about to hit 40k miles and still nothing forward of the firewall has been touched. My CPO ended in June 2019, so I am now at 15 months with no warranty. Had I paid for a warranty my covered repairs to date would total exactly $0. Same as my last car and the one before that.
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