12-22-2021, 09:58 PM | #1 |
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CCB break fluid m6
Question: I'm about to perform my break bleed on my F06 with carbon ceramic breaks CCB and trying to figure out if I should be using the oem dot 4 bmw break fluid or going with Castro break racing fluid?
Is there any official information on TIS on what fluid should be used in our beasts specially those with the carbon ceramic breaks?! Thanks in advanced! |
12-24-2021, 11:33 AM | #2 |
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Should have no impact on the type of brakes. The fluid sits behind the pistons in the calipers and is just meant to provide hydraulic pressure.
Any DOT4 is probably fine for street use. Castrol SRF is top of the line, and folks who track their cars tend to like it as it holds up for a long time and they only need to swap once a season due to the high wet boiling point, but at $60-70/quart is 2-3x the cost of other fluids like ATE, Motul, etc. which are also fine. |
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12-25-2021, 03:26 PM | #3 |
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Everything I have read says it is the same fluid. Check https://newtis.info you may have to create an account but it is very helpful.
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12-26-2021, 06:31 PM | #4 | |
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I opted to go the route of Castro racing break fluid for my bleed maintenance! I will document possibly when I get it in the coming days… cheers! |
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01-04-2022, 12:26 AM | #5 |
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Got around to ordering some parts including new super sports plus tires to replace the ones I had… usually do it yearly… anyhow I took advantage and got to the brake fluid replacement procedure - yes all diy with all the right tools. I went with the most expensive Castro srf racing break fluid - I ordered two 1 lt bottles off Amazon which were priced right.
Once I had completed the full flush from rear passenger to right passenger to right front passenger to front driver side I had gone through exactly 2 bottles with enough to top off at the end. So the end was actually the beginning lol On the drive back home I had soft brake peddle syndrome and I was incredible stressed since I had done the whole process as documented. So I went back and had my wife pump and floor the brake peddle 3 times each and hold while I bleed each caliper 3 times… I saw this on a YouTube clip and so I figured this would resolve any air in the lines. To my surprise the last caliper (front driver) had tons of air trapped. The bleed was more like a fountain jet lol At the end the brake peddle was rock hard and perfect. I ended up ordering a 3rd bottle of the liquid gold to top off one last time … wish they made these smaller lol Anyhow hope this helps others [IMG][/IMG] |
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TinCanSailor629.50 HeyKC101.50 |
01-06-2022, 04:02 AM | #6 |
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I will suggest to use a brake fluid with an higher boiling point, this means an increased in service intervals (these "racing" brake fluids usually last less than conventional oils because they are more hygroscopic) but will perform better due to the fact that CCB go very high in temperature for their optimal braking performance, thus the most critical component is the oil that have to withstand these scenarios, specially on track.
I have personally moved from the OEM DOT4 braking fluid to the Motul DOT4 RBF700, and the brake pedal lasted the entire track session (2 hours) while with the original oil i was not able to achieve nowhere near the same results in just 15 minutes of hot-lap. |
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01-06-2022, 10:21 PM | #7 | |
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08-11-2022, 05:18 PM | #9 |
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Upper right hand corner on the newtis dot info page is an icon that looks like a person. Click that, create an account and enjoy.
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08-13-2022, 11:46 AM | #10 | |
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After spending thousands to replace CCBs why save money 😆😆 |
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08-14-2022, 03:44 PM | #11 | |
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Maybe I need to do this from a PC? I’m only offered to sign in or select forgot password, not register. Suggestions? |
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