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      06-29-2020, 05:05 PM   #23
BMWM5NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER View Post
So i took my car in today and they checked her out. Car has no leaks. They said mist likely it leaks through the Schrader valves the ac machine hooks onto. So they recovered 0.26 lbs of refrigerant. They put in 1.60 lbs and now i have perfectly cool AC.
Schraeder valves should have caps on them to prevent leakage. (I work in the HVAC field) They tend to leak as they age. These cars (F10 5 series) as well tend to have slow leaks at the condensor coil seams. Faulty design. The new designed condensors do not leak. If it starts to hiss again, they have to replace the condensor. A vaccum test(leak test) won't show it leaking. They have to pressurize the system with dye tracer and then they will see condensor "sweating" (leaking) refrigerant at the seams of the coil.
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      06-29-2020, 05:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER View Post
So i took my car in today and they checked her out. Car has no leaks. They said mist likely it leaks through the Schrader valves the ac machine hooks onto. So they recovered 0.26 lbs of refrigerant. They put in 1.60 lbs and now i have perfectly cool AC.
Schraeder valves should have caps on them to prevent leakage. (I work in the HVAC field) They tend to leak as they age. These cars (F10 5 series) as well tend to have slow leaks at the condensor coil seams. Faulty design. The new designed condensors do not leak. If it starts to hiss again, they have to replace the condensor. A vaccum test(leak test) won't show it leaking. They have to pressurize the system with dye tracer and then they will see condensor "sweating" (leaking) refrigerant at the seams of the coil.
Thank you for the information. I will keep that in mind and if will see if i need a condenser replacement. Is there s part number for the upgraded condenser?
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      06-29-2020, 08:48 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER View Post
Thank you for the information. I will keep that in mind and if will see if i need a condenser replacement. Is there s part number for the upgraded condenser?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...509109725~oeb/

That is a link to a site that sells the updated condensor. It has both part numbers.
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      07-03-2020, 06:35 AM   #26
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Drove the car for the first time in a few months yesterday. It was 95 degrees out. The AC did not blow any cold air at all...all hot air. I did not hear any hissing noises or the condenser turning on. I haven't seen any leaking on the floor in the garage. The AC was working perfectly fine last summer and the car has been hardly driven since then.

Any thoughts? So you still I think it might be leaking are weeping? Any other blockages or issues that I should look for? Thanks.
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      07-03-2020, 01:08 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by thebmw View Post
Drove the car for the first time in a few months yesterday. It was 95 degrees out. The AC did not blow any cold air at all...all hot air. I did not hear any hissing noises or the condenser turning on. I haven't seen any leaking on the floor in the garage. The AC was working perfectly fine last summer and the car has been hardly driven since then.

Any thoughts? So you still I think it might be leaking are weeping? Any other blockages or issues that I should look for? Thanks.
2 of us had luck with a recharge
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      07-03-2021, 02:08 AM   #28
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Many people say that solar panels are something new today. Probably I agree with you because the weather sometimes is so hot. I didn't see people who have solar panels, but it seems to be something interesting. I believe that there are people who have electricity thanks to solar panels. It's like a mining farm, and the prices for solar panels will increase a lot. I'd like to see an aircon which is based on a solar panel. Guys, who know about this thinks, is it possible to do something from air conditioner servicing singapore?

Last edited by ThomsonMary; 07-04-2021 at 05:32 AM..
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      07-03-2021, 09:30 AM   #29
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It is a good practice to run the AC regularly even during the winter if possible.
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      07-03-2021, 10:42 AM   #30
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It is a good practice to run the AC regularly even during the winter if possible.
Thats interesting. Will definitely keep that in mind
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      07-03-2021, 11:36 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffxxx View Post
What year and how many miles?

Best case scenario a drain and fill would solve it, with these cars it's not a simple "recharge" anymore. So that'll probably be around $250-$300 for that. They'll put in a dye and search for leaks after that.

Long story short, I had a lot of A/C issues last year on a 2015 with only 29k miles on it. They ended up replacing my evaporator and cost nearly $4k and BMW USA covered 80 percent of it. Fast forward to a couple months ago, my A/C wasn't blowing cold AGAIN. Took it back and they replaced an expansion valve under warranty.

Hopefully yours is a simple fix!
I don't see what would be special about these. Most cars are filled by weight; recover any remaining refrigerant, pull a vacuum, and refill.
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Originally Posted by NytWolf View Post
It's an air conditioning system, not a cold air system. What the heck does that mean? The air conditioning system not only cools the air, it pulls moisture out of the air. That's why you run the air conditioning system even in cold weather to keep your windows from fogging up.

If you talk to air conditioning system technicians, you will quickly find out you're supposed to run the system at least 30 minutes total per month to keep it lubricated regardless of temperature. If you don't drive the car very much, just run the system when you periodically start the car for lube purposes.

A properly operating air conditioning system does not need recharging every two years. It is a sealed system. If there are no leaks, there is nowhere for the gas to go. The oil, on the other hand, can be consumed via friction.

In OP's case, I'd be inclined to think there is blockage, most likely at the orifice tube from OP's noise description.
I mostly agree. A/C systems are not completely sealed and most manufacturers, including BMW, specify a leak rate.

For F06 R134a:
Table 1 indicates the permitted loss of refrigerant after a specific period of time. There is no leak. refrigerant oil may not be topped up.

Number of years since last filling, Permissible loss [g]
0 - 1 ≤ 30
1 - 2 ≤ 60
2 - 3 ≤ 90
3 - 4 ≤ 120
4 - 5 ≤ 150

Total system capacity is 850g so even a properly functioning system will need to be topped off over the years.
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Originally Posted by sir harmony View Post
A/C systems are sealed units. No recharge is ever necessary. If however it's not cooling properly, something somewhere in the system is malfunctioning or there is a leak in the system. If someone recommends a recharge, expect the issue to resurface later (could be hours, days, months, depending on the severity of the issue), as a recharge without a repair is only a temporary.
See above. While they shouldn't need to be charged frequently, recharges are necessary over time.
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Originally Posted by sir harmony View Post
Absolutely not! What sense does it make to drain and refill refrigerant? It's not engine oil that gets dirty. If you have it drained but refilled with a 'sealing' agent, then that's a different story. I wouldn't advice anyone to refill with a sealing agent, but it makes sense and might work (drain and refill scenario).


This I agree with. But that's universal across all manufacturer lines and has been that way for decades.



I would love to see where you got that info. I'm genuinely interested to see the explanation and science behind that. I'm not disagreeing with you as there is potential to learn something. Maybe this is something new.

Guys, unless there is some environmentally friendly chemical in refrigerants, it is not supposed to decrease over time. A/C systems are sealed because refrigerants (R-12 and R134 for cars) damage the ozone. Recharging over time as some of you mention suggests that the system is venting into the atmosphere. No system is designed that way. You might get away with recharging every time the temperature vent gets warm, but the underlying root of the problem will persist.
Draining and refilling *can*, on occasion, fix issues. Sometimes valves stick and that's enough to get them to work again. Probably not the "right" fix, but it is the easiest and cheapest.

Also regarding the refrigerants, R-12 damages ozone while R134a does not (it has zero ozone depletion potential). It is only a greenhouse gas.
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Originally Posted by thebmw View Post
Drove the car for the first time in a few months yesterday. It was 95 degrees out. The AC did not blow any cold air at all...all hot air. I did not hear any hissing noises or the condenser turning on. I haven't seen any leaking on the floor in the garage. The AC was working perfectly fine last summer and the car has been hardly driven since then.

Any thoughts? So you still I think it might be leaking are weeping? Any other blockages or issues that I should look for? Thanks.
I'd just get it charged. The seals can dry out when the system isn't run which then results in a leak. Simply running it is often enough to fix the problem.
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Originally Posted by arucano View Post
It is a good practice to run the AC regularly even during the winter if possible.
Agreed.
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      07-03-2021, 09:06 PM   #32
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For blockage, most of the time it would be the expansion/evaporator valve get stuck. Itís a cheap ~40 buck parts.
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      07-06-2021, 08:29 PM   #33
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I replaced my condesnor and it solved my issue, found that one of the lower cross tubes was cracked .
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      07-07-2021, 04:09 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER View Post
I replaced my condesnor and it solved my issue, found that one of the lower cross tubes was cracked .
Was that via a test of some sort?
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      07-13-2021, 10:05 AM   #35
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Was that via a test of some sort?
so I did a vacuum test on the hvac system. it held vacuum over the course of about 2 hours, so I thought it was fine, however I know that over the course of a week id lose my cool air. so I thought to myself it can only really be 2 things in my mind, the evaporator in the car is bad, or the condenser is bad, not wanting to replace the evaporator behind the dash and thinking its well protected, and the lines are relatively short runs and what not, I figured my condenser would be bad, after 80k miles of rocks hitting it.

the last time I lost all my refrigerant I injected uv dye. once I removed the condenser I cleaned it off because there was a ton of crap in the fins. I checked the condenser with a uv light and saw a very small crack 4 inches above the bottom of the condenser were the dye leaked out.

I am very glad I changed the condenser and now have good AC.

on a side note for anyone doing this job, you do not have to undo the transmission cooler, or the power steering cooler, just lift and bend them out of the way and bend them back in, be patient and it will be fine. there are a few annoying brackets that are plastic in there, I swear I fought one for an hour, but it went back in, its a spacer for all the radiators.

all in all its a moderate level DIY to replace the condenser.
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