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      04-09-2020, 05:11 PM   #23
pdubq
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Awesome boards!!!

Were these The H&R part #: 50470-2?

I see those on Turner website for $305.95? They say drop is 1.4” front and 1.3” rear though?

Where’d you order yours from?
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      04-09-2020, 09:10 PM   #24
board57796
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Originally Posted by e38740imd View Post
why isnt this Sticky'ed Admins
I was thinking it might be worthy but I guess not!
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      04-09-2020, 09:11 PM   #25
board57796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdubq View Post
Awesome boards!!!

Were these The H&R part #: 50470-2?

I see those on Turner website for $305.95? They say drop is 1.4” front and 1.3” rear though?

Where’d you order yours from?
I’m having trouble finding the email from where I ordered them and I can’t remember. I will keep looking!
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      04-09-2020, 09:48 PM   #26
pdubq
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Originally Posted by board57796 View Post
I’m having trouble finding the email from where I ordered them and I can’t remember. I will keep looking!
Thanks!! The stance and height is perfect!
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      04-11-2020, 11:06 PM   #27
board57796
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Thanks!! The stance and height is perfect!
Thank you! Found the box in my garage today and the part number is 50470-2 and the box actually says “F10/F11 550Xi” but as you can see it fits my car as well.
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      04-11-2020, 11:37 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by board57796 View Post
Thank you! Found the box in my garage today and the part number is 50470-2 and the box actually says “F10/F11 550Xi” but as you can see it fits my car as well.
Sweet! This is officially on the list. As soon as maxton shipping lines open back up, I get the splitter on and see how close my driveway clearance is, this is next. Might be tight...
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      04-16-2020, 03:23 PM   #29
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When replacing/removing or disassembling struts/shocks on these cars, is an alignment required, recommended or not needed? And what is the basis behind the answer.

Excellent write-up by the way. Like you, came from another body (E39). Had plenty of info there, but it is a bit thin on this side.

L.

Last edited by Luftpost; 04-16-2020 at 07:24 PM.. Reason: Compliments to OP.
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      04-18-2020, 12:03 AM   #30
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Here are some before/afters and just afters. I love the amount of lowering.













what tire size are you running?
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      04-18-2020, 11:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luftpost View Post
When replacing/removing or disassembling struts/shocks on these cars, is an alignment required, recommended or not needed? And what is the basis behind the answer.

Excellent write-up by the way. Like you, came from another body (E39). Had plenty of info there, but it is a bit thin on this side.

L.
It is required as soon as you loosen any components from the suspension / chassis. Yu have to align it afterwards. This includes the Toe
Camber
Caster
Thrust angle
Wheel alignment is the position of the wheels relative to your car. When properly aligned, the wheels point in the right direction. Alignment also affects gas mileage and tire wear. If your tires are pointed in different directions, they fight against each other and can cause tread wear. Computerized alignment equipment is used to measure all alignment angles on today's cars.
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      04-18-2020, 12:50 PM   #32
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what tire size are you running?
255/35/20 and 295/30/20
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      04-20-2020, 07:13 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Havy View Post
It is required as soon as you loosen any components from the suspension / chassis. Yu have to align it afterwards. This includes the Toe
Camber
Caster
Thrust angle
Wheel alignment is the position of the wheels relative to your car. When properly aligned, the wheels point in the right direction. Alignment also affects gas mileage and tire wear. If your tires are pointed in different directions, they fight against each other and can cause tread wear. Computerized alignment equipment is used to measure all alignment angles on today's cars.
Thank you!

L
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      04-25-2020, 06:39 PM   #34
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Attempted to replace my stock springs for h&r vtf.....
You need to be a Demigod for the single bolt that holds the rear brake hub assembly to the shocks in order to remove it. Tried both passenger and driver and only the passenger budged.

Once I removed it, the vtf springs requires me to remove the metal top cap in order to put on the adjustable perch. Ended up throwing up the white flag and reassembling the whole shock due to the metal top cap being too stubborn even with wd-40.

Gonna have my mechanic deal with the vtf springs for the rear.

Great write up though. Extremely helpful.
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      12-11-2020, 01:09 AM   #35
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Much Thanks for your DIY. It really helped me out. I started with the rear and I am glad I did. The rear took me 3 hours longer than fronts. I had to take out the rear wheel liner. I also fractured the tip my right ring finger when taking out the 2nd rear strut. It shot down when taking out the bottom bolt catching my finger. It took me the whole weekend.

I lowered with H&R VTF. Like matth3wthao said, the metal top cap was hard to remove. I was mad I smashed my finger so I took it out on the metal cap. lol. I lightly heated up the metal cap with a torch making sure it didn't get hot and mess up the shock seals. I kept on pounding it out rotating from all sides until they came off. I also torch the cap before I put them back.

I was lucky the alignment was within spec considering how low it is.
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      12-19-2020, 05:31 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by R0N View Post
Much Thanks for your DIY. It really helped me out. I started with the rear and I am glad I did. The rear took me 3 hours longer than fronts. I had to take out the rear wheel liner. I also fractured the tip my right ring finger when taking out the 2nd rear strut. It shot down when taking out the bottom bolt catching my finger. It took me the whole weekend.

I lowered with H&R VTF. Like matth3wthao said, the metal top cap was hard to remove. I was mad I smashed my finger so I took it out on the metal cap. lol. I lightly heated up the metal cap with a torch making sure it didn't get hot and mess up the shock seals. I kept on pounding it out rotating from all sides until they came off. I also torch the cap before I put them back.

I was lucky the alignment was within spec considering how low it is.
Glad it helped you out! And glad you posted the picture because I’m about to switch back to my OEM rims (same as you) and have the same lip and trunk spoiler so it’s nice to have a visual of how it will look! Looks awesome.
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      12-22-2020, 01:30 AM   #37
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Glad it helped you out! And glad you posted the picture because I’m about to switch back to my OEM rims (same as you) and have the same lip and trunk spoiler so it’s nice to have a visual of how it will look! Looks awesome.
Sorry to go off topic, why are you switching back to stocks - for winter? I like your rims and color. Probably in a year I can get rims, I have to save lol. I spent too much on her recently. I didn't own the car I originally PM'd you. lol. I was still researching.
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      12-22-2020, 09:21 AM   #38
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Sorry to go off topic, why are you switching back to stocks - for winter? I like your rims and color. Probably in a year I can get rims, I have to save lol. I spent too much on her recently. I didn't own the car I originally PM'd you. lol. I was still researching.
Those rims look nice but they keep bending. I need something stronger, especially with CO roads and potholes. Every rim now has some sort of bend in it. I need some forged rims instead.
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      12-22-2020, 12:08 PM   #39
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Those rims look nice but they keep bending. I need something stronger, especially with CO roads and potholes. Every rim now has some sort of bend in it. I need some forged rims instead.
That's sucks!! Good to know going with forge would be stronger. Would getting taller tires help from bending?
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      12-24-2020, 01:38 AM   #40
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@board57796 I feel you bent a rim a couple weeks ago. I'm pretty sure it's not the only one but I could feel it. $250 to repair or $550 for a new rim. Paid for the repair this time.
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      04-26-2021, 07:28 PM   #41
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Just wanna say thanks for the really good instructions. Did some springs install this past weekend and this saved me a lot of time!
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      04-27-2021, 11:46 AM   #42
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Just wanna say thanks for the really good instructions. Did some springs install this past weekend and this saved me a lot of time!
Glad to see it’s still helping!
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      07-16-2021, 01:42 AM   #43
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Just changed the right rear spring on my GC.

There is NO need to remove the rear shelf to access the three top strut mount nuts. Just pop out the speaker covers, remove the speakers and take out the foam insulation over the strut mount.

This gives you access to the three 13mm nuts.

I used a small 1/4" ratchet wrench with a short extension to undo the nuts. No problem at all to undo the three nuts through the holes for the speaker. The whole process took exactly 1,5 hours, including changing the spring and reinstalling.

To remove the speaker cover, undo the wiring to the speakers and undo the three bolts took probably roughly 10 minutes...

So you guys can save A LOT of time doing it this way instead of removing the rear shelf.

This video shows how it's it done on a F10. The speaker access hole on the GC did not allow for as easy access as it seems to be on the F10, but still no problem with the 1/4 ratchet. There is enough headroom between the underside of the shelf and the nuts that you can actually have the rathcet and extension underneath the shelf as you undo the bolts. For the front nut you can use the small access hole just above the nut, instead of the speaker hole.

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Last edited by Boss330; 07-16-2021 at 02:07 AM..
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      07-16-2021, 10:23 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss330 View Post
Just changed the right rear spring on my GC.

There is NO need to remove the rear shelf to access the three top strut mount nuts. Just pop out the speaker covers, remove the speakers and take out the foam insulation over the strut mount.


So you guys can save A LOT of time doing it this way instead of removing the rear shelf.
Clutch!! Been putting off doing the rears for a year now, been riding around with only the front lower (which I don't mind since it still looks aggressive and I already graze speed bumps etc). Fronts took me forever which made me not want to do the rears. I ran into many issues using the spring compressor that Autozone rents out. The coils were too tight and strut body was too thick...had many problems trying to get the compressor to fit on right and being able to compress it enough to loosen the top nut. It was probably 4 hours of me tightening and loosening the compressor by hand many many times to get it to compress right. I would use a compressor that has slim mounting points on the spring like the one below:

https://www.amazon.com/Shankly-370mm...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Although I question the quality/sturdiness of this tool. Seems very weak, probably enough to change the rears and throwaway after.
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