07-08-2020, 12:03 PM | #1 |
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Wheel Barrels Coated in Oxidation Post-Wash
What's the secret to avoiding this? My wheel barrels get torched by the rust fallout from the rotors whenever I wash the car. Wondering what others use to get around this or at least mitigate it
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07-08-2020, 12:55 PM | #2 |
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Couple of options here; Hyde's Serum Rust Stopper or (what I prefer) the "back & forth" method. The hyde's option is to be sprayed directly onto the rotors after washing but prior to the rust appearing. This method is okay....But personally, after I wash my wheels, I continue on with washing and drying the car. By this time the rust on the rotors has dried - purposely waited for this. From there, I pull into the driveway and go back and forth a good 20 yards maybe 6-8x with relatively hard breaking. Pull back in the garage, and then proceed to use my drying aid/spray wax to finish off the wheels and remove the rust deposits from the wheels. If you try this method, I'd recommend waiting until the rotors completely rust over. I tried doing it right after washing the wheels and it smeared up pretty bad. A non issue when I wait for it to dry.
In the mean time, grab you a lug nut brush for cleaning https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Trim-Lu...NsaWNrPXRydWU= |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-08-2020, 01:03 PM | #3 | |
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I've tried a bunch of different strategies to try and mitigate the rust and nothing has really seemed to work very well. I have since wiped out the barrels with spray wax and they look fine but it just seems really cumbersome to do. Thanks for noticing the brown rings around the lug bolts I've been meaning to get a specific wheel agitator brush but just have had a lot going on to this point, now I really have to pick one up haha
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07-08-2020, 01:09 PM | #4 | ||
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I agree with the back and forth, in fact I put my whole damn hand in there while washing, dry, then back and forth and wipe again... a real pain but when they are right nothing better |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-08-2020, 01:47 PM | #5 | |
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Sounds good I guess I'll just have to deal with the back and forth clean method for now. To the root issue with the high dust pad compound, I looked to Akebono for a solution but it appears they only carry pads for the rears on these cars. Does anyone have a good low dust and low/no squeak solution for pads that I can look at switching to down the road?
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07-08-2020, 01:57 PM | #6 | ||
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To keep them looking like that, I too have a solution; Powerstop ceramic pads (z23 evolution I believe). I've been running them on the M6 for about a year with no sacrifice in performance. And I'm talking 150+mph braking and they don't even blink. The real beauty is the lack of brake dust. With stock pads, I'd say the front produced maybe 3x as much dust as the stock rears. Now, the stock rears produce at least 2x as much dust as the fronts. It's a drastic change..And they're under $100 for the front set. A no brainer. |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-08-2020, 03:47 PM | #7 | |
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Anyone else with experiences of Powerstops? And should you use them front and rear, or just front and the OEMs rear? |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-08-2020, 05:17 PM | #8 | |
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Powerstop only makes them for the front for our cars. Akebono sells a rear set which I’ll use when I swap rotors here soon. I ran Akebono on my CLS AMG for years with no issues as well. Some people do front only, but I will be going all 4 corners. |
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07-08-2020, 05:43 PM | #9 | ||
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07-08-2020, 08:53 PM | #10 | ||
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This is awesome -- thanks for the recommendation on this. Checking their website they do make rear pads for our cars actually so I just ordered these front and rear for ~$110 from Summit which was an easy decision. Was thinking of the Z26 pads but 98% of the time I brake early and softly, so I figured the rubberized shims would serve the purpose better than the stainless.
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07-08-2020, 10:14 PM | #11 | |
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Cheers to virtually dust free braking, fellas! |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-10-2020, 06:00 AM | #12 |
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Don't mean to threadjack LJohnson32, but on the subject of cleaning brakes, how do you guys give the inner part of the rotors a good clean?
I washed my wheels yesterday but wasn't able to get the inner portion of mine cleaned well as it seems to have quite a bit of caked on dust. See pic. But damn, don't these wheels look so good when they're clean! |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-10-2020, 09:29 AM | #13 | |
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As far as the part you're referring to, mine have been relatively clean from the jump fortunately. I would imagine if it is indeed caked on dust, getting a nice wheel cleaner product on there (I use Griot's Wheel Cleaner) and then allowing it to work for a few minutes before going in with a stiffer bristle brush to dislodge the buildup. You could probably afford to go with a more aggressive/stiffer brush than your typical wheel cleaner agitator brush since there is no real 'finish' on that piece but I'd still stay away from a wire brush just in case. For maximum effect to get that area clean, I'd recommend popping the wheels off for easy access
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07-10-2020, 09:33 AM | #14 |
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Good point. I tried spraying the cleaner on that bit and let it sit but I didn't agitate it too much with a bristle brush. I've had really good luck getting dust and grime off with the wheel and tire cleaner from Car Guys on all the other parts of the wheel/ tire (including lugs lol).
Perhaps it's time to use a brush and really get in there! |
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LJohnson32213.50 |
07-10-2020, 09:35 AM | #15 | |
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07-10-2020, 06:37 PM | #16 |
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The hat is an aluminum alloy and the "whitish" deposit is the result of corrosion. You will need to apply some sort of barrier coating to prevent that corrosion ( or move to somewhere that they do not have to salt the roads ) Here in Texas we are fortunate that we do not have to deal with that. BTW, cleaning it just accelerates the corrosion unless you protect the freshly exposed aluminum alloy.
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