Valvoline Restore & Protect Oil: cleans upto 100% Deposits to Factory Specs?

[RCKYMTN M34OI]

Been keeping my eye on feedback for the Valvoline R&P also. Put it in my wifes ecoboost and my E46 with 259,000 miles last oil change. The E46 runs very well already but I may have noticed a slight improvement, could've been placebo though.
Not sure if it'll be worth using in my M340 since it's low mileage but I may still use it to ensure it stays clean.
Seems interesting from all the R&D they've detaild.

[fe7565]

I think the BMW specs oil does a good job as well keeping the engine clean, at least in my car. So I am only using the Valvoline R&P from mostly curiosity (couple of 3000 miles oil changes cannot hurt), and because I got 3ea 5qrt for about $80. I am still at 500 miles, will change/cut open filter at 1000 miles.

[fe7565]

Replaced the oil filter at 1,100 miles on the first Valvoline R&P fill. Did not see any sludge, but the oil seemed dark for 1,100 miles. My car even at 112k miles does not burn any noticeable oil. Always at max mark from oil change to oil change after 3-5k miles.

[Gjg064]

The real issue is the EGR function the ECU is programmed on the engine to reduce emissions, the carbon builds up above the oil control ring pack so I doubt an oil would have any effect on it.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by Gjg064

The real issue is the EGR function the ECU is programmed on the engine to reduce emissions, the carbon builds up above the oil control ring pack so I doubt an oil would have any effect on it.

Yes, direct injection injectors is cleaned primarily by fuel (detergent/additives), but not the intake valves. Valvoline says there may be a small cleaning effect by the oil vapors carried though the EGR system and then cycled back through the combustion chamber again and the intake valves...but they do not claim this oil to be designed for that. This is for the piston rings and other internal engine moving surfaces.

It helps reduce oil burn by freeing up the piston rings so they seal again, this restores compression...and stops/reduces blow-by.

[Simple4me]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Replaced the oil filter at 1,100 miles on the first Valvoline R&P fill. Did not see any sludge, but the oil seemed dark for 1,100 miles. My car even at 112k miles does not burn any noticeable oil. Always at max mark from oil change to oil change after 3-5k miles.

Thank you very much for posting your attempt with the Valvoline restore and protect.

I have a '19 N63 x7. I use Amsoil and I change it every 5k.
I use Ceratec (now just one bottle) every like 3rd oil change.

I was thinking to use the Valvoline R&P and your experience sounds great.

What do you think about the noise that the engine is making while running the Valvoline R&P.

I have a 3.5 Toyota - old - and I put the Ceratec - it run soooo smooooth. When I changed to the Valvoline R&P - I changed the oil first at 500miles and it was really dark for a 500 miles - like you mentioned already. But now I am not too happy because the engine sounds just a little noisier.

I am very much looking forward to finish with the 4th oil exchange for the toyota so I can add back Ceratec. Then I will decide if I will put the Valvoline R&P in the X7 (has about 75k miles and I started the 5k oil exhange maybe at about 35k)

I do some Italian tunning in my cars almost all the time I drive them.

IS there anyone here that likes the Ceratec as much as I do? I put it in all my cars after I had the first shock when I put it in the N63 and it made it run sooooo smooth.

[pbonsalb]

I have put Ceratec in my 2018 M5 and my wife’s 2021 Cayenne S and not noticed anything. But both cars ran fine before. In between the Ceratec, I use Moly.

[RockCrusher]

Years ago the trick to cleaning an engine was to add a quart of automatic transmission fluid to the oil. The superior detergent additive in the transmission oil was the key.

But techs impressed upon me the best way to clean an engine is change the oil before it gets loaded with combustion byproducts (water and other stuff which combine to form acids). Oil is a detergent. In a pinch I've seen mechanics put a bit of fresh oil on their hands and use it as hand soap. Worked pretty good but of course it was not water soluble so the oil had to removed with a clean shop rag.

Treating an engine to regular and not too extended oil/filter services doesn't require some super duper oil just the factory oil will suffice.

[V1_ROT8]

Uhh, excuse me sir. That makes too much sense!

[fe7565]

IMO, using the factory specs BMW oil at reasonable intervals with good quality filters is all you need. IMO, the Valvoline R&P is primarily for cars that have not been taken care of, or used with low-grade gas. I am using it because I wanted to see if there were any deposits that may needed to be cleaned off from the oil passages, timing chain/rail, piston rings, etc...and also some oil vapors may get recirculated back into via the emission system to clean the intake valves. Valvoline says that this oil was not made for intake valves, but may have a small residual cleaning effect in some cases. Some people reported that their oil dipstick (non-BMW cars) and oil fill cap got scrubbed clean after 500-1000 miles.

What I've seen online is that it did reduce oil consumption significantly for many people (piston rings sealed again). I never had an oil-use issue, so cannot confirm. I did not notice any smoother sound from the engine, still rattles like a diesel engine, especially when still cold. But that has been bothering me since 28k miles when I bought it, and it's normal for these early 4-cyl dual-turbo direct injection BMWs. The biggest sound reduction was when I replaced the factory timing chain tensioner with the later redesigned OEM version.

I did notice a smoother idle after a few hundred miles of highway driving with the Valvoline R&P. The RPM is not varying as much where I can feel it, and it seemed to have picked up a couple of HPs when accelerating from idle. Could be the potential better compression with the piston rings being scrubbed? I was reluctant to use the Valvoline R&P, because it is not BMW specs. But emailed Lake Speed Jr. (The Motor Oil Geek), and he said for this 2-3 oil changes it will not hurt.

Never used any oil additives. The only thing I ever use(d) are fuel additives, like Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel, and Techron Complete for the injectors and combustion chamber. I am not against using MOS2 or Ceratec in the oil, but based on what I gathered about additives in general is that they are unnecessary if using BMW specs oil and Tier 1 gas. I am also concerned as some oil additives truly work miracles, while others test acidy, etc in the same engine. A particular oil when mixed with an additive can change its chemical qualities. The automotive oil is a careful/exact chemical mix of base oil and detergents, etc for a particular engine. And since that oil was not designed to work with that additive you add, it may change the entire oil in the engine to become more acidy, or less resilient to viscosity breakdown, etc. It's a hit and miss as far as helping or hurting or doing nothing.

If one could be sure that Ceratec does not change the oil chemistry in their car, I would consider using it for the sound reduction effect.

[toy4two]

blew my N52, yes N52, last weeend. Just driving down the freeway around 75MPH, heard a popcorn noise coming from the engine bay pulled over. Rod Knock galore. Towed it home and glitter city in my oil filter.

I switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 less than 1000 miles before the engine blew. Full disclosure I did also us a Mobil 1 oil filter for the N52 which I understand are not reocmmended.

I'm in process of dropping the oil pan. The glitter in the oil filter was copper colored so I'm expecting the rod bearings failed hence the rod knock. After drainig the oil from the pan this morning the end of the magnetic drain plugs is super sticky sludgy oil which i have NEVER seen in all the oil changes I"ve done on this car going back to 80,000 miles now at 152310 miles when it let go.

I bought the car in 2020 for $6k from a rich lady who's son worked at the dealership on Orange County CA which even included a CPO warranty transfer to 100k which I took advantage of for new radiator and all th reaclls. Getting 5 years of 100% reliable servcie out of the 328i I'm not really that upset since its cheap and lasted 5 years. I just wish I didn't take as good care of it as I did using all expensive OEM parts like new water pump, nothing went on that wasn't OEM except the micky mouse flange, a metal cooling line for the one that burst above the radiator and a K&N panel filter. Car had a 330 flash since 80k no 3SIM and ran like a top.

Prior to the switch to Restore and Protect it got nothing but Castrol 5W-30 Euro A3/A4 and changed around 10,000 miles usually with a MANN filter.

I'm not saying R&P caused the failure but it and the Mobil 1 filter and the evidence of slude now in my pan somthing sure changed.

Unless I find a vanos bolt in my oil pan from BMW's recall work 9 months ago it sure is suspicous for a N52 to lose its rod bearings.

I've been documenting it on YouTube up to 4 Shorts:

https://youtube.com/shorts/_wUunnojT6k

https://youtube.com/shorts/FLUkQQpRjww

https://youtube.com/shorts/xXg59bTa-1A

[fe7565]

UPDATE after 6,000 miles.

I am at 117,000 miles now and started using the Valvoline Restore and Protect since 111,000 (since this post). I ended up using the 5W-30 after confirming via email with the "The Motor Oil Geek" (Lake Speed Jr., STLE Certified Lubrication Specialist & Oil Analyst, SPEEDiagnostix).

Part of my original email to him:

=================================================
"Question:

Valvoline correctly said (see email below) that their current Restore & Protect oils do not meet BMW specifications. I wanted to use it to clean my BMW F30 pistons/combustion chamber and possibly the intake valves (via the PCV system). Although the Valvoline Restore & Protect does not meet BMW engine specs, wouldn't its proven "cleaning-performance" trump this oil's potential operating "under-performance" in the BMW? Would use it for 2-4 oil changes only under normal driving conditions with oil filter replacement in the first 500 miles, then 1500 miles, then 2500 miles and 4000 miles (just as example). My car is a 2012 with 111,0000 miles, but does not burn any measurable oil.

If the Valvoline Restore & Protect is too risky for the BMW, would a Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec 5w/30 (which meets BMW LL-04 specs) be the next closest detergent oil that could(? lead to similar cleaning performance in a BMW as the Valvoline? If yes, how would it compare to the near 100% cleaning claim of the Valvoline? "

================================================== ==


I am on my 3rd oil change in about 6,000 miles. First oil + filter change was at about 1000 miles, and the second oil + filter after putting on another 2,000 miles, and now I am at 3,000 miles more. (I do DIY oil changes at home)

Now at 6,000 miles, I was getting ready to go back to BMW OEM specs oil, but decided to stay with Valvoline R&P for one more oil change for about an additional 3,000 miles. Why?

So before I used Valvoline R&P oil, I used Marvel Mystery Oil and B-12 in the fuel every 2nd or 3rd fuel tank. They seemed to help smoothen the idle...for a while. The ide wasn't bad, but I noticed that after a few tanks of driving without a fuel cleaner, the idle starts to vary a bit randomly. I drive mostly city and short distances, which is not good for the engine.

Since about after 3,000 miles of using R&P, confirmed that my idle remained steady when cold or at operating temperature. My oil consumption was always zero (or at least not measurable) since I had the car, so cannot tell if the R&P did anything there. But (short of opening my engine to see), it seems that the R&P oil did clean some deposits that may have affected the idle at times.

Either way, since it costs at Walmart near the same as other BMW specs oils, I will use it for one more oil change and then call it a day.

[jaffles]

My understanding

Short runs, lack of temperature, lack of oil changes, and the egr are the culprits most responsible for a dirty ill performing motor.

Oil and filter quality is largely marketing unless your on a race track. Where regular and consistence changes that meet spec are what's important.

Premium 98 fuel will clean a fuel system in 2 tanks.

EGR is a crude form of emission control and if possible turn it off at the ECU. DPF is worth retaining.

Unless you are getting oil tested; the observed cleaning results are little more than good feeling about your purchase so to speak. Still its great you are having a crack at sorting it yourself.

If your Valvoline results are not what you are after, maybe try.

5hr+ run at 60mph with premium fuel, change oil and filter (any brand will do). Another 5hr+ run and change oil and filter again. Then with regular driving with premium 98, don't be shy for some hard spirited driving (at least once a week to get the car so it smells hot). Change oil and filter every 6000 mile (any will do).

I use Fuel Doctor in my car, but it will work in fuel cars also. I do so to breakdown water derived from condensation and address bacteria. It also cleans and supposedly lubricates costing about $1 per fill.

This has been my pattern for some tie now and now issues to report.

[Emily172013]

In the 60's I bought a used Mustang with around 25 thousand miles. I discovered the first time I changed the oil that the heads were full of thick sludge. I doubt if the oil was ever changed. I changed the oil every thousand miles four times with regular 30w Pennzoil (good stuff at the time) and it removed the sludge.

[thebmw]

Quality of oil and filters is not just marketing! Octane has nothing to do with oil quality, gas quality, or sludging. I would highly suggest you do more homework, probably from different sources than your current ones. Short driving runs and improper maintenance are contributing factors to issues.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by jaffles

EGR is a crude form of emission control and if possible turn it off at the ECU. DPF is worth retaining.

I did not see an EGR system when I had my turbos and manifold out. I recall my E36 M3 had one, which I deleted. Maybe variable vanos engines can do the equivalent without any external piping or valves.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Emily172013

In the 60's I bought a used Mustang with around 25 thousand miles. I discovered the first time I changed the oil that the heads were full of thick sludge. I doubt if the oil was ever changed. I changed the oil every thousand miles four times with regular 30w Pennzoil (good stuff at the time) and it removed the sludge.

When I buy a used car or work on a friend or family member’s car that I have not worked on before and the car has over 50k miles, I do an engine flush. Usually Liquimoly brand but there are others that should also work fine. I also change all the fluids.

[jaffles]

Originally Posted by thebmw

Quality of oil and filters is not just marketing! Octane has nothing to do with oil quality, gas quality, or sludging. I would highly suggest you do more homework, probably from different sources than your current ones. Short driving runs and improper maintenance are contributing factors to issues.

If that's me you are talking to, its from life experience, not any literature. Way I see it everyone is selling something be it a respected review, test, or how professional they are etc.

Wife's car would not rev over 1500rpm and started poorly. She was running e10 ethanol which has a 95 octane. Put 2 tanks of premium 98 through and it performed as it should.

Bought a truck that had done port work with 350k km on it. Who knows how much idling it had done but 700km out of 700Lt was all it would do. Two tanks of BP premium diesel with fuel doctor doing 80km runs at 70 to 100km/h it now does 1400km a week on regular diesel.

Slippery mechanic wanted me to do 12,000km services on it with castrol bla bla bla and genuine filters. I do 25,000km services and its done another 350k km with aftermarket filters. I do those services on the mark with clean respectable oil without the big brand price.

I could go on but hope my point from my perspective makes sense to you.

[thebmw]

Originally Posted by jaffles

If that's me you are talking to, its from life experience, not any literature. Way I see it everyone is selling something be it a respected review, test, or how professional they are etc.

Wife's car would not rev over 1500rpm and started poorly. She was running e10 ethanol which has a 95 octane. Put 2 tanks of premium 98 through and it performed as it should.

Bought a truck that had done port work with 350k km on it. Who knows how much idling it had done but 700km out of 700Lt was all it would do. Two tanks of BP premium diesel with fuel doctor doing 80km runs at 70 to 100km/h it now does 1400km a week on regular diesel.

Slippery mechanic wanted me to do 12,000km services on it with castrol bla bla bla and genuine filters. I do 25,000km services and its done another 350k km with aftermarket filters. I do those services on the mark with clean respectable oil without the big brand price.

I could go on but hope my point from my perspective makes sense to you.

The examples you give validate that good gasoline is important. They also validate that there was some type of fuel issue with the examples you gave. Higher octane will get less knocking allowing for more efficient combustion, but octane is not inherently related to the quality of fuel. Those are two separate points..

Those are completely separate points compared to quality of oil and filters. Not all oils and filters are created the same, much like fuel.

[jaffles]

Originally Posted by thebmw

The examples you give validate that good gasoline is important. They also validate that there was some type of fuel issue with the examples you gave. Higher octane will get less knocking allowing for more efficient combustion, but octane is not inherently related to the quality of fuel. Those are two separate points..

Those are completely separate points compared to quality of oil and filters. Not all oils and filters are created the same, much like fuel.

Well the way I see it the truck was clogged from idling and low km, could replace the oil and filter 100 times with the best of the best and nothing would improve it if didn't get distance at RPMs with good radiant heat into it.

Tell me, if less marketed and known brand = spec, why is well marketed brand with volume in sales and supports race teams, plus usually cost more, better?

[thebmw]

Originally Posted by jaffles

Well the way I see it the truck was clogged from idling and low km, could replace the oil and filter 100 times with the best of the best and nothing would improve it if didn't get distance at RPMs with good radiant heat into it.

Tell me, if less marketed and known brand = spec, why is well marketed brand with volume in sales and supports race teams, plus usually cost more, better?

I never said believe marketing. Trust science and data. Within that science, you will find the definition of octane and how it has nothing to do with quality or additives and that oils are created differently with different characteristics and additives. In many cases, the companies that have more data are the ones that market it more aggressively.