2016 650i xDrive Gran Coupe DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION

[derailed]

So I got off work today, and as I got into the parking garage of my building, sat in my car, and expected it to roar up smoothly as usual,
it started akin to a semi-truck with the revs at 1800 before it cooled down, prompting me through iDrive that I have a drivetrain malfunction.
It drove perfectly fine, but with reduced power. It feels as if I drive it with any aggression it'll break down on me right then and there.

It'll get taken into the dealer tomorrow morning, probably by the time most
of you read this - so it'll get sorted - but my question still remains, is this normal for a car with the N63TU engine? I know this engine was very problematic in 2012 before they updated it.

Also, what could possibly be wrong if the car showed absolutely no signs of anything wrong up until 6PM tonight?

[AccordTR]

Originally Posted by kkinthe6

So I got off work today, and as I got into the parking garage of my building, sat in my car, and expected it to roar up smoothly as usual,
it started akin to a semi-truck with the revs at 1800 before it cooled down, prompting me through iDrive that I have a drivetrain malfunction.
It drove perfectly fine, but with reduced power. It feels as if I drive it with any aggression it'll break down on me right then and there.

It'll get taken into the dealer tomorrow morning, probably by the time most
of you read this - so it'll get sorted - but my question still remains, is this normal for a car with the N63TU engine? I know this engine was very problematic in 2012 before they updated it.

Also, what could possibly be wrong if the car showed absolutely no signs of anything wrong up until 6PM tonight?

Misfire, plugs, coils, anything simple like that.

[thebmw]

Did you turn off the car and try restarting? Sometimes it's just a misfire and the next time you start it up, everything is fine again.

[derailed]

Originally Posted by thebmw

Did you turn off the car and try restarting? Sometimes it's just a misfire and the next time you start it up, everything is fine again.

I had to turn the car off. I sat for about five minutes contemplating a tow to BMW and a rental, however decided to try my luck. It ran fine ONLY when driven like a 28i. It also gave me about half the power I typically get which was odd too. It seemed to be a bit nervous to get close to 3k rpms too, it was downshifting at 1500rpms at 50% acceleration.

Most importantly, the drive on my car went from clouds to what I'd expect in a base model Chevrolet sedan. I'm excited to get in my 3 series loaner now

I'm pretty sure it's my spark plugs. I've noticed a loss in acceleration in the last few months too, and a drop from 20mpg. I get anywhere from 15 to 17 now.

[thebmw]

So even after you turned it off and waited and turn it back on, the drivetrain malfunction still appeared in the car was still in limp mode?

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by kkinthe6

I had to turn the car off. I sat for about five minutes contemplating a tow to BMW and a rental, however decided to try my luck. It ran fine ONLY when driven like a 28i. It also gave me about half the power I typically get which was odd too. It seemed to be a bit nervous to get close to 3k rpms too, it was downshifting at 1500rpms at 50% acceleration.

Most importantly, the drive on my car went from clouds to what I'd expect in a base model Chevrolet sedan. I'm excited to get in my 3 series loaner now

I'm pretty sure it's my spark plugs. I've noticed a loss in acceleration in the last few months too, and a drop from 20mpg. I get anywhere from 15 to 17 now.

I'd put new plugs in every week if I could get 20mpg. You do a lot of highway driving? My long term average is about 14.5 unless I get on the highway for a lot of a tank.

[derailed]

Originally Posted by thebmw

So even after you turned it off and waited and turn it back on, the drivetrain malfunction still appeared in the car was still in limp mode?

It wasn't necessarily a limp mode, I turned it on and the warning had never gone away on my 20 mile drive home. The car could still operate at normal speeds, however - ride quality decreased terribly, I was nervous to push anything over 70 if that tells you anything. However there was definitely and obvious decline in power, cause I should never feel like I have to work to get to 70mph in a 50i.

Originally Posted by Opie55

I'd put new plugs in every week if I could get 20mpg. You do a lot of highway driving? My long term average is about 14.5 unless I get on the highway for a lot of a tank.

In Indianapolis, most major roads sort of function as little highways, so it's not hard to cruise for 6 miles at 50 miles per hour. I seem to put more miles on in this city than any other because it's so sprawled out.

I think the way I've been able to forge 20mpg combined in a v8 was realizing all of the capability the car has, and not using it all 24/7, granted there are some days where I have my fun. I would've preferred the 640's gas mileage, however when test driving both, it didn't feel as premium as the 650. I figured as this car dusts cars from a stoplight on complete accident, you can blend in with the flow a lot better only revving up to 1800-2200 from stops. Acceleration is a huge part in the game with gas mileage.

[derailed]

I think it's the weather, I took it out for a 20 mile drive mixed with freeway driving, and by the time I was on the freeway the Drivetrain Malfunction warning disappeared. I took it to about 5500rpm and it performed as normal. I wonder if these cars just can't handle being parked "outside" in the cold, cause mine is definitely a garage baby.

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by kkinthe6

I think it's the weather, I took it out for a 20 mile drive mixed with freeway driving, and by the time I was on the freeway the Drivetrain Malfunction warning disappeared. I took it to about 5500rpm and it performed as normal. I wonder if these cars just can't handle being parked "outside" in the cold, cause mine is definitely a garage baby.

You are kidding yourself. They can be parked anywhere - mine is almost always outside. You won't get a drivetrain malfunction from that. You just had some sort of transient malfunction that may or may not come back. The codes will be stored. You should have the codes read.

[jdsaengine]

I agree, just because it went away, for now, it will certainly come back at an inopportune time. Take it in to Dreyer & R dealer to pull codes. As others have said, most likely plugs or a bad injector.

How many miles on it? I have 2013 650x vert and never had a problem (knock on wood) but only have 34K miles. I must be a neighbor too, since I live in Carmel. I'll be at the dealer a lot of sunny Saturdays getting a free car wash.

[derailed]

Originally Posted by Opie55

You are kidding yourself. They can be parked anywhere - mine is almost always outside. You won't get a drivetrain malfunction from that. You just had some sort of transient malfunction that may or may not come back. The codes will be stored. You should have the codes read.

�� I preferred to be optimistic instead of thinking there was actually something wrong.. just until I could squeeze my way into the shop w/ a loaner provided. This car really knows how to make you miss it as soon as you drive another car.

While the code was gone it was running like a horse all the way up until it was brought in 2 days ago. The mechanic thinks I just had a misfire, and I'm likely about due for new spark plugs.

Thankfully it ran fine, nearly had a spasm when I started the car and saw/felt that.

Originally Posted by jdsaengine

I agree, just because it went away, for now, it will certainly come back at an inopportune time. Take it in to Dreyer & R dealer to pull codes. As others have said, most likely plugs or a bad injector.

How many miles on it? I have 2013 650x vert and never had a problem (knock on wood) but only have 34K miles. I must be a neighbor too, since I live in Carmel. I'll be at the dealer a lot of sunny Saturdays getting a free car wash.

It's in the shop now getting checked out. I'll hear more later on today. My first '6' was a 2013 M6 Coupe that I purchased with 22k miles, got stranded once in Lawrence and had to get a tow out of the hill in the winter After about 3,000 miles I had enough and buyers remorse took over for buying a RWD sports car. I like to think I got out of a bad one as it would ask for two quarts of oil a bit too often. I went to the dealer and traded in for a CPO 650 with about 40k miles they had just happened to have with the closest cosmetic specs to an M you can get. I have about double the miles , given that I do put on a lot of freeway miles, especially on 465. Quite a few trips to Chicago, as well. I just loaded about 10k miles since November as I took it on two road trips that were both 1600 miles roundtrip, and a third short trip to Columbus, OH, along with everyday driving. Expecting to hit 90k at the end of this year. I plan on driving this til the wheels fall, then I suppose I'll get another BMW. Likely the M850 GC.

[sir harmony]

Originally Posted by Opie55

I'd put new plugs in every week if I could get 20mpg. You do a lot of highway driving? My long term average is about 14.5 unless I get on the highway for a lot of a tank.

I second this. I just ordered a set of fresh plugs @ 40k. Even at $120 for the set, I wouldn't mind changing the plugs often if I could get better mileage. I've tried different things. Eco is useless because I get the same mpg in other modes (sport+ being the exception). The max I've gotten is 23mpg on the highway. Avg daily is usually about 14mpg mixed. I suppose I should brace myself because it will only get worse with new turbos later. I'm just tired of trips to the gas station (every 2-3 days).

The drivetrain malfunction could be anything. I have one right now. Everyone should have ISTA. A quick scan revealed that the water pump (the one for the charge air coolers & radiator is bad.

[thebmw]

I've been able to average 27 US miles per gallon on the highway. Not really doing anything special except for gentle acceleration and coasting instead of breaking early.

What is a reasonable price to pay the dealer or independent shop do spark plug changes and what spark plugs would you recommend?

[derailed]

Originally Posted by sir harmony

I second this. I just ordered a set of fresh plugs @ 40k. Even at $120 for the set, I wouldn't mind changing the plugs often if I could get better mileage. I've tried different things. Eco is useless because I get the same mpg in other modes (sport+ being the exception). The max I've gotten is 23mpg on the highway. Avg daily is usually about 14mpg mixed. I suppose I should brace myself because it will only get worse with new turbos later. I'm just tired of trips to the gas station (every 2-3 days).

The drivetrain malfunction could be anything. I have one right now. Everyone should have ISTA. A quick scan revealed that the water pump (the one for the charge air coolers & radiator is bad.

The drivetrain turned out to be nothing. I'm getting 14-18 mixed depending on traffic now, but can easily get 23 @ 80mph but it seems to get better as you approach 88mph whereas I can get 25+mpg.

[sir harmony]

Originally Posted by thebmw

I've been able to average 27 US miles per gallon on the highway. Not really doing anything special except for gentle acceleration and coasting instead of breaking early.

What is a reasonable price to pay the dealer or independent shop do spark plug changes and what spark plugs would you recommend?

I use 2 step colder NGK SILZKBR8D8S. These are laser iridiums, and I have them gapped between .18 and .20. This is on account of my tune, exhaust and intake. I have no idea on shop cost as I no longer take any of my cars to a shop. Brand new under warranty, I took one for an oil change and said never again. It's no exaggeration, but someone always manages to damage something in my cars, and so I learned to do things myself. The one thing I cannot do is paint which I'm regretting with mismatched paint by a professional paint shop on one of my cars.

[sir harmony]

Originally Posted by kkinthe6

The drivetrain turned out to be nothing. I'm getting 14-18 mixed depending on traffic now, but can easily get 23 @ 80mph but it seems to get better as you approach 88mph whereas I can get 25+mpg.

It cannot be nothing. It may not be relevant according to your shop, dealer, or whoever is interpreting the code. I suggest you find out exactly what it was.

[MickeyThompson]

I had the same problem with my 2014 650i. First time driving 90 MpH on the interstate. It took several trips to BMW service but they finally get it fixed. It won't go away until it's fixed.

[RoadRunna]

Originally Posted by kkinthe6

So I got off work today, and as I got into the parking garage of my building, sat in my car, and expected it to roar up smoothly as usual,
it started akin to a semi-truck with the revs at 1800 before it cooled down, prompting me through iDrive that I have a drivetrain malfunction.
It drove perfectly fine, but with reduced power. It feels as if I drive it with any aggression it'll break down on me right then and there.

It'll get taken into the dealer tomorrow morning, probably by the time most
of you read this - so it'll get sorted - but my question still remains, is this normal for a car with the N63TU engine? I know this engine was very problematic in 2012 before they updated it.

Also, what could possibly be wrong if the car showed absolutely no signs of anything wrong up until 6PM tonight?

Sorry to hear that bro. I had that pop up on my screen prior to the motor seizing however I have a 2014 650i GC. If interested in the story I did a video to expose what happened to my BMW.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY9IS_gCKcY&t=12s