Electrical, 2008 BMW 6 Series, Starter not turning

mschweich · 09-13-2019, 07:30 AM

Erratic start, push button, dash lights up, hear solenoid/relay latch, steering column drops, headlamps come on, occupancy buzzer sounds, NOTHING, no crank turn NOTHING! Troubleshoot: Check bat voltage, 11.89v- 12.59v, charge old battery 12.8v, same sound, possible latch relay. Brand new replacement battery 12.9 v, notice when hooking positive terminal large spark, parasitic current draw. Separate 2 positive terminal wires, only one drawing current. Measured current many times 1.2 Amps max when not trying to start vehicle, 6+ amps when attempting to start vehicle when motor actually turn, once the engine cranks it starts right away. Is there a similar post of this already? Where can I find an electrical schematic diagram(starting circuit is ok, can work from that) of 2008 BMW 6 Series? Its most likely the solenoid/relay, location sound like center console under the gear shift!Start disassembly of center console looking for solenoid relay in morning, 2 hrs! Thank you for your anitcipated reply!
Michael

Opie55 · 09-13-2019, 08:46 AM

Despite it's title, this forum is really for the 2012 and later 6 series. Have you eliminated the starter itself? That would be my first suspicion. Anyway, if you go to NewTis at this link and type in the last 7 places of your VIN, you will find everything about your car you could ever want.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Yorkie36 · 09-16-2019, 03:32 PM

T

Derekz4 · 09-16-2019, 07:24 PM

Start here. This is a very common issue on the E63 platform.

IVM Replacement / Troubleshooting
Hey there! I thought I would put up a post on some issues I was troubleshooting to hopefully help others out for what I found.
I have had my '08 650i for about 4 months and love it! I did start having some issues that were odd and intermittent. First issue I had was one day I went to start the car and nothing happened when the start button was pushed. I opened the door, then for some reason I pushed the button and boom it started up. I tried to duplicate it several times with no issue, it started every time. I thought it was odd as I had recently (`10 minutes) just drove the car. A few weeks later, driving the car for roughly 30 minutes, I had a Service Engine Light come on and the car began to run rough. It cleared up and then I had a yellow brake message as well as the DSC light illuminated. I did some troubleshooting the next day and found codes on several modules for low voltage and Crankshaft Position Sensor. I decided after reading the forums that the battery could be the cause, so I replaced it as it was an OEM battery. That went well and I registered the new battery with my computer. This worked for a few more weeks, when the troubles returned. It started happening more often and various things would happen. A few times, the car would just die when I pushed the clutch in. It was like the idle was affected. This time I decided to really dig into the troubleshooting and started running the codes against my Bentley Manual as well as the forums. One of the codes was 5F76 DSC : Under the DSC Modules as Engine Management Interface. This code had a few hits on the web that pointed to the Integrated Supply Module (IVM). The IVM has several systems that are integral to the operation of our cars. (ECM, Camshaft and Crankshaft Sensors, Ignition Coils, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump Relay, Valvetronic Control Modules)
After ordering a IVM online, I replaced it in the car. Curiosity got to me and I broke the case loose and found what appeared to be corrosion on the solder terminals. This was odd to me as it is in a pretty much sealed box with the ECM. After replacing the IVM, the car has run flawlessly and I noticed it shifting better as well. The IVM must have been going bad do the corrosion and it had been degrading the performance little bits at a time.
Here are some pictures of the IVM location and how to get to it. It is a pretty straight forward job and takes about 30 minutes to do. If your having troubles, I would suggest you look at the IVM to determine if yours is corroded as well. Replacement cos was under $100.
The IVM is located under the Cabin Filter box.

09-13-2019, 07:30 AM	#1
mschweich Registered 1 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 08 Bmw M6, 08 Bmw Series 6, B Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: California iTrader: (0)	Electrical, 2008 BMW 6 Series, Starter not turning Erratic start, push button, dash lights up, hear solenoid/relay latch, steering column drops, headlamps come on, occupancy buzzer sounds, NOTHING, no crank turn NOTHING! Troubleshoot: Check bat voltage, 11.89v- 12.59v, charge old battery 12.8v, same sound, possible latch relay. Brand new replacement battery 12.9 v, notice when hooking positive terminal large spark, parasitic current draw. Separate 2 positive terminal wires, only one drawing current. Measured current many times 1.2 Amps max when not trying to start vehicle, 6+ amps when attempting to start vehicle when motor actually turn, once the engine cranks it starts right away. Is there a similar post of this already? Where can I find an electrical schematic diagram(starting circuit is ok, can work from that) of 2008 BMW 6 Series? Its most likely the solenoid/relay, location sound like center console under the gear shift!Start disassembly of center console looking for solenoid relay in morning, 2 hrs! Thank you for your anitcipated reply! Michael
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09-13-2019, 08:46 AM	#2
Opie55 Colonel 1195 Rep 2,908 Posts Drives: '15 650i Convertible Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: US iTrader: (0)	Despite it's title, this forum is really for the 2012 and later 6 series. Have you eliminated the starter itself? That would be my first suspicion. Anyway, if you go to NewTis at this link and type in the last 7 places of your VIN, you will find everything about your car you could ever want. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
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09-16-2019, 03:32 PM	#3
Yorkie36 New Member 0 Rep 13 Posts Drives: BMW f13 650i Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Devon iTrader: (0)	T
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09-16-2019, 07:24 PM	#4
Derekz4 First Lieutenant 169 Rep 333 Posts Drives: BMW 640i. BMW Z4,01 Bullitt Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Southern California iTrader: (0)	Start here. This is a very common issue on the E63 platform. IVM Replacement / Troubleshooting Hey there! I thought I would put up a post on some issues I was troubleshooting to hopefully help others out for what I found. I have had my '08 650i for about 4 months and love it! I did start having some issues that were odd and intermittent. First issue I had was one day I went to start the car and nothing happened when the start button was pushed. I opened the door, then for some reason I pushed the button and boom it started up. I tried to duplicate it several times with no issue, it started every time. I thought it was odd as I had recently (`10 minutes) just drove the car. A few weeks later, driving the car for roughly 30 minutes, I had a Service Engine Light come on and the car began to run rough. It cleared up and then I had a yellow brake message as well as the DSC light illuminated. I did some troubleshooting the next day and found codes on several modules for low voltage and Crankshaft Position Sensor. I decided after reading the forums that the battery could be the cause, so I replaced it as it was an OEM battery. That went well and I registered the new battery with my computer. This worked for a few more weeks, when the troubles returned. It started happening more often and various things would happen. A few times, the car would just die when I pushed the clutch in. It was like the idle was affected. This time I decided to really dig into the troubleshooting and started running the codes against my Bentley Manual as well as the forums. One of the codes was 5F76 DSC : Under the DSC Modules as Engine Management Interface. This code had a few hits on the web that pointed to the Integrated Supply Module (IVM). The IVM has several systems that are integral to the operation of our cars. (ECM, Camshaft and Crankshaft Sensors, Ignition Coils, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump Relay, Valvetronic Control Modules) After ordering a IVM online, I replaced it in the car. Curiosity got to me and I broke the case loose and found what appeared to be corrosion on the solder terminals. This was odd to me as it is in a pretty much sealed box with the ECM. After replacing the IVM, the car has run flawlessly and I noticed it shifting better as well. The IVM must have been going bad do the corrosion and it had been degrading the performance little bits at a time. Here are some pictures of the IVM location and how to get to it. It is a pretty straight forward job and takes about 30 minutes to do. If your having troubles, I would suggest you look at the IVM to determine if yours is corroded as well. Replacement cos was under $100. The IVM is located under the Cabin Filter box.
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