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      11-16-2020, 03:56 PM   #1
aann
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Drivetrain error fault

Today while i was cruising i press the gas pedal hard and then a drivetrain error pumped up, the car cuts power , i stopped in the side of the road , the car was vibrating , i turn the car of and then turn it on again and the check engine fault with drivetrain was still on , i drove home slow , tried to scann the fault but it went away , the thing is that the car still cut power and wont accelerate hard full throttle above 4-5k rpm , but the fault is gone
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      11-16-2020, 04:35 PM   #2
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How many miles on the plugs and coils? Probably bad plugs and or coils.
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      11-16-2020, 04:36 PM   #3
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Also, do you have a piggyback boost controller or tune?
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      11-16-2020, 09:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
How many miles on the plugs and coils? Probably bad plugs and or coils.
I have now 41k mile (64k km) , the car is tuned stage 1 for abou 2 and half years , i changed the spark plugs one month ago .
the coils i did not change .
When i drive normal cruising the car is fine , when i pull hard and pass 4-5k rpm the car lose and cut power .
Do you think its a coil problem ?
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      11-17-2020, 03:20 AM   #5
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Today i saw fault code p0299 , but the code went away ....
The still cut power/boost in high rpm
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      11-17-2020, 06:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aann View Post
I have now 41k mile (64k km) , the car is tuned stage 1 for abou 2 and half years , i changed the spark plugs one month ago .
the coils i did not change .
When i drive normal cruising the car is fine , when i pull hard and pass 4-5k rpm the car lose and cut power .
Do you think its a coil problem ?
Any downpipes and what grade of gas are you using. Seeing the code you posted after this; I think it was the result of lost combustion. If you could narrow the cylinder down that is misfiring you could swap the coils to verify but if you are gonna go through all of that labor to get to them anyway it might be easier to just replace them. Get some OE Bosch from FCP Euro that way if they go bad in the future you can just swap them under warranty.

Also, check to see if you are getting any pirated air post MAF sensor. If you have had the air intake off/open and didn't close it up tight it could be unmetered air getting in.
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      11-17-2020, 07:54 AM   #7
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My downpipe are stock , i have M performance exhuast only , and yes fault came on after i swap my H&N drop air filters to the stock oem airfilters , Maybe the charge pipe clamps are leaking and need to be replaced , do you know what size are they ? maybe i replace them for stronger after market ones !!!!
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      11-17-2020, 08:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aann View Post
My downpipe are stock , i have M performance exhuast only , and yes fault came on after i swap my H&N drop air filters to the stock oem airfilters , Maybe the charge pipe clamps are leaking and need to be replaced , do you know what size are they ? maybe i replace them for stronger after market ones !!!!
Oiled air filters can foul the MAF sensor which could lead to this sort of issue. Get a can of MAF cleaner and try to clean it off. If the filters are new there is a chance you are going to end up oily again so keep a can handy. I have had a lot of luck with cleaning them but after a while you'll likely want to replace them.
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      11-17-2020, 08:02 AM   #9
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Did you remove the charcoal filters when you had the K7N filters in?

I am sure your charge pipes are fine; I was referring to the air intake tubing coming off the filter box. make sure the lip of the tub didn't get pinched or rolled and double check all the torx bits around the airbox.
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      11-17-2020, 08:28 AM   #10
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Item number 7 in the diagram is the MAF. Someone smarter than me is more than welcome to add on to this but the way I understand it is the MAF provides a voltage to ecu to indicate how much air is coming in, further down in the manifold is a MAP, manifold absolute pressure, sensor that is providing a reading to true up what the MAF sent if there is a difference the ecu will basically withhold fuel from that bank.

The other screenshot shows the MAP sensors as part number 10.
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      11-17-2020, 01:04 PM   #11
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I did not have a charocoal filters since my car is a europe spec , i checked the MAFs for oil they felt clean but i will double check them again together with the airbox torx .
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      11-17-2020, 01:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
Item number 7 in the diagram is the MAF. Someone smarter than me is more than welcome to add on to this but the way I understand it is the MAF provides a voltage to ecu to indicate how much air is coming in, further down in the manifold is a MAP, manifold absolute pressure, sensor that is providing a reading to true up what the MAF sent if there is a difference the ecu will basically withhold fuel from that bank.

The other screenshot shows the MAP sensors as part number 10.
Man you have a plenty of knowlege 🙂
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      11-17-2020, 04:15 PM   #13
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Man you have a plenty of knowlege 🙂
The universe has forced me to learn
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      11-17-2020, 04:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aann View Post
I did not have a charocoal filters since my car is a europe spec , i checked the MAFs for oil they felt clean but i will double check them again together with the airbox torx .
Hit them with some MAF cleaner if you can. They work off of heat so everything that passes over the hot element tends to get baked on. Knowing the k&n's are oil impregnated there is a good chance it is just fouled. if the air intake is tight and the maf's are clean try data logging if you can to see if you can catch the misfire.

Did you change the gap on the plugs when you replaced them?
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      11-17-2020, 06:32 PM   #15
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Just like Tincansailer said , I never experienced it yet , but I have read several posts over the years were guys are getting a drivetrain malfunction they change there plugs and coils and this fixed the problem .
You just changed your plugs a month ago , Maybe you have a faulty plug , I would change the coil packs and inspect or change your plugs again just to rule that out
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      11-18-2020, 04:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
Hit them with some MAF cleaner if you can. They work off of heat so everything that passes over the hot element tends to get baked on. Knowing the k&n's are oil impregnated there is a good chance it is just fouled. if the air intake is tight and the maf's are clean try data logging if you can to see if you can catch the misfire.

Did you change the gap on the plugs when you replaced them?
The gap on the plugs was stock gap before i replace them and after , the maf is cleaned up but still the car feels like there is no boost , and cut power , if i drive slow below 3-4k rpm the car feels normal , there is no codes now ....
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      11-18-2020, 09:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aann View Post
The gap on the plugs was stock gap before i replace them and after , the maf is cleaned up but still the car feels like there is no boost , and cut power , if i drive slow below 3-4k rpm the car feels normal , there is no codes now ....
Probably a coil or possibly a fouled plug. If you dig into the replacing the coils check the plug gap while you are there. If you plan on running a tune it might be worth adjusting the gap but talk to your tuner to see what they say about the plug gap. You are likely going to need to data log while driving to get a root cause.
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      11-18-2020, 10:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aann View Post
I have now 41k mile (64k km) , the car is tuned stage 1 for abou 2 and half years , i changed the spark plugs one month ago .
the coils i did not change .
When i drive normal cruising the car is fine , when i pull hard and pass 4-5k rpm the car lose and cut power .
Do you think its a coil problem ?
Hello i had same problem like u. If u changed plug recently then it will be coil. After replace coil and plug, feels brand new. Gl
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      11-19-2020, 06:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkgy79 View Post
Hello i had same problem like u. If u changed plug recently then it will be coil. After replace coil and plug, feels brand new. Gl
Did you have the same symptoms like me , i mean when you press hard the throthle the car cuts power and lose power , like there is no boost ?
Is youre car tuned ?

And by the way in my hidden menu show dtc code :

E11465
E11498
E1149C
E1149D
E12C1F

Last edited by aann; 11-19-2020 at 09:34 AM..
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      11-19-2020, 10:16 AM   #20
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You'll likely need ISTA software to properly sort the meaning behind these codes but you can try this website, http://bmwfault.codes/.
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      11-19-2020, 12:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
You'll likely need ISTA software to properly sort the meaning behind these codes but you can try this website, http://bmwfault.codes/.
I checked them , but apparently they are stored faults and not related to my case , the only fault that is related is the P0299 fault which indicate a low charge pressure
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      11-19-2020, 05:51 PM   #22
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Yeah, I'd change the coils and take a look at the gap and condition of the plugs while you are in there. Maybe even the o2 sensors or at a minimum the post cat sensors since the pre-cats are easy to reach.
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