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      09-07-2021, 07:47 AM   #23
arucano
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I would check the resistance to ground first. If the clutch coil is bad, it will show very high resistance. If the resistance is low, indicating the continuity in the clutch coil, then you can test it by injecting 12V to activate the clutch. . As always, be careful that you select the correct pin when doing this.

Good luck
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      09-09-2021, 03:08 AM   #24
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So I did a resistance check and got 9k ohms which is very high. I am assuming a would expect around 2-4 ohms?
So I assume I am up for a new compressor
Here isn Australia it is going to cost $3,300 just for the compressor...
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      09-09-2021, 02:28 PM   #25
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I have not checked for replacement coil on the M6 but I was able to get one for an E39 that I had. I no longer have the info on the source however. Given the cost of a whole new compressor, I would try to see if an electric motor rewinding shop can rewind the coil for you. I have not seen the coils for the newer cars yet so I don't know whether that is possible, but is worth a shot.
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      10-04-2021, 02:07 AM   #26
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Hi there, it's me again lol, so I managed to source a new A/C compressor from the US at a good price.
I am not 100% convinced it is the problem though. I would of thought if the clutch had gone and the AC compressor was not spinning I would get ambient temperater air coming out. You can clearly see from the image I am getting heated air, this is about 19C above ambient.
I think for some reason the car wants to heat, like the heater valve is stuck open.

I am at a loss.
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Last edited by chrisveal; 10-04-2021 at 02:12 AM.. Reason: Add photo.
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      10-04-2021, 12:23 PM   #27
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There are several reasons this could be the case. Check if the return (low pressure line) to the compressor is cold. If it is, then the problem is likely in the flaps for the internal air routing and distribution. Have a look at the attached document and see if that helps you analyze the problem.
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File Type: pdf F01%20Workbook%20-%20Module%203.pdf (2.22 MB, 7 views)
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      10-05-2021, 10:39 AM   #28
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on a side note, can any of you guys advise if your aircon makes a low pitched background noise whilst the air con is running.

Mine is doing this, had it re-gassed and now the dealer is wanting to rip out the dash to mess about worth motors etc
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      10-14-2021, 10:50 PM   #29
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Depends on the noise. Mine was making an unusual noise and the A/C stopped working. (have had multiple issues). The dealer had to replace the evaporator because they said it was leaking and there was a physical hole in it somehow. The noise stopped and the A/C works again.


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Originally Posted by Taheemr View Post
on a side note, can any of you guys advise if your aircon makes a low pitched background noise whilst the air con is running.

Mine is doing this, had it re-gassed and now the dealer is wanting to rip out the dash to mess about worth motors etc
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      10-21-2021, 01:20 AM   #30
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So my new AC Compressor rocked up today and you wouldn't believe it, they ordered the V10 one
So I have to wait for the new, correct one to arrive, so I decided to download BimmerLink to check for some faults in relation to the AC. These are the faults;
8020C7 - Compressor Clutch: Line interruption or short circuit to positive.

Any idea what this means other than the obvious?

Cheers

Chris
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      10-21-2021, 08:38 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisveal View Post
So my new AC Compressor rocked up today and you wouldn't believe it, they ordered the V10 one
So I have to wait for the new, correct one to arrive, so I decided to download BimmerLink to check for some faults in relation to the AC. These are the faults;
8020C7 - Compressor Clutch: Line interruption or short circuit to positive.

Any idea what this means other than the obvious?

Cheers

Chris
Copy and paste your fault code into this BMW fault code site to see what info it gives: https://bmwfault.codes/
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      10-22-2021, 02:26 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arucano View Post
Have you checked what the outside temperature indicator is saying. If that is damaged the AC system will not function properly. If it is indicating 50C the sensor is shorted. If 40C the sensor failed open or wiring broken.(check these at startup).
How do I check this? Do I need a diagnostic tool?

Cheers

Chris
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      10-23-2021, 09:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisveal View Post
How do I check this? Do I need a diagnostic tool?

Cheers

Chris
All 3 versions of the instrument cluster shows the ambient temperature. To check “this” look at what temperature is displayed on your instrument cluster and then check another source (use your cell phone or an outdoor thermometer near you) to check what the ambient temperature is for your location. It should be within a couple of degrees. If it is unjustifiably way off…then something is wrong with your ambient temp sensor.
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      10-23-2021, 10:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
All 3 versions of the instrument cluster shows the ambient temperature. To check “this” look at what temperature is displayed on your instrument cluster and then check another source (use your cell phone or an outdoor thermometer near you) to check what the ambient temperature is for your location. It should be within a couple of degrees. If it is unjustifiably way off…then something is wrong with your ambient temp sensor.
Hahaha it was that easy lol, I thought this ambient temp sensor being discussed was a separate indecent sensor for the HVAC system. The sensors all good, showing exactly what ambient is.
Thanks
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