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      06-15-2020, 08:03 PM   #1
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Front brake rotor change

Hello all, any one have a DIY on the front brake rotor change. Mine is getting too thin. Planning to get the OEM BMW ones. Also there seems to be two types of brake rotor hub screws, not sure which set. There is a M8x12 and M8x14. Which is the correct set. Car is a 2017 M6 coupe. Any advice will help. Thanks!!
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      06-15-2020, 08:32 PM   #2
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I don't have a DIY for you but can assure you it is incredible simple. For the parts I would hit up fcpeuro.com. I am not affiliated but have used them for years to care for my wife's 550 and more recently parts for my m6gc. They are incredibly fast on responses and have yet had to send a part back.

This is a very helpful resource when doing your won repair work. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
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      06-16-2020, 06:02 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
I don't have a DIY for you but can assure you it is incredible simple. For the parts I would hit up fcpeuro.com. I am not affiliated but have used them for years to care for my wife's 550 and more recently parts for my m6gc. They are incredibly fast on responses and have yet had to send a part back.

This is a very helpful resource when doing your won repair work. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
+1 on both recommendations.
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      06-16-2020, 08:07 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-tech7 View Post
Hello all, any one have a DIY on the front brake rotor change. Mine is getting too thin. Planning to get the OEM BMW ones. Also there seems to be two types of brake rotor hub screws, not sure which set. There is a M8x12 and M8x14. Which is the correct set. Car is a 2017 M6 coupe. Any advice will help. Thanks!!
https://youtu.be/9OXKzuYO86k
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      06-16-2020, 08:23 AM   #5
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Nice share but now I have a serious case of garage envy.
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      06-16-2020, 09:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-tech7 View Post
... Also there seems to be two types of brake rotor hub screws, not sure which set. There is a M8x12 and M8x14. Which is the correct set. Car is a 2017 M6 coupe. Any advice will help. Thanks!!
This is easily made clear by simply using one of the online part database sites...pulling up the diagram shows exactly why there are two screws...and also where they are used.

You may also want to verify the info you posted about the hub screw sizes...you either have a typo...or you're looking at the wrong rotor set-up. I would recommend going to one of the sites, typing in the last 7 digits of your VIN...then going to the BRAKE diagrams to find the rotors for your M6 then check the part nbr index etc to make sure you're getting ones for the M6.

If you're not familiar with the diagrams...the encircled numbers represents hardware like screws/nuts/bolts/clips/pins/etc and usually have their own index within the diagram. You can clearly see where #2 & #4 in the diagram are used.

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      06-16-2020, 12:55 PM   #7
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:Thanks for all the replies! Especially to FCP Euro. I didn't know they have a Lifetime warranty on all their products. The video helped a lot ,but wished he went into a little more details. Seems straight forward enough. Thanks Qsilver7 for the diagrams. I also finally figured out that one set if for the fronts and another different screw set was for the rears. Stupid me. Thanks again to all!!
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      06-16-2020, 04:45 PM   #8
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      06-16-2020, 07:43 PM   #9
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I've learned that nothing is straightforward working on the M6.
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      06-17-2020, 01:32 AM   #10
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So after reading = https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/, it says to not put brake pad grease on the back of the brake pads and contact surfaces of the caliper with the brake pad. I was always thought you should grease them to make the brakes quiet. The guy on the youtube video also did. What are your thoughts.
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      06-17-2020, 08:07 AM   #11
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If the pad does not have damping material on the back, so that you would have bare metal to metal contact between the pad and the caliper pistons, then you have to use the lube/graphite. Several brake pad manufacturers now put (usually a graphite impregnated material) backing on the back of the pads. It looks like the pads in the example have that type of backing.
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      06-17-2020, 10:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-tech7 View Post
So after reading = https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/, it says to not put brake pad grease on the back of the brake pads and contact surfaces of the caliper with the brake pad. I was always thought you should grease them to make the brakes quiet. The guy on the youtube video also did. What are your thoughts.
To me it seems that cars from the factory never use that grease on the pads, I had quite a few new cars and when changing pads the back plate is always clean,I never put the grease and never had a problem ,it just seems messy
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      06-28-2020, 09:17 PM   #13
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So I finally did the brake change this weekend with the help of my brother in law. Took our time with it and done about 3hrs. Everything was going well but did struggle a little with getting the brake calipers on and off. We had to remove the brake line and pad senor bracket off in order to give us slack to slide the caliper off. Two 10mm nuts. No room with conventional sockets, so had to use open ended and ratcheting wrenches. We didn't remove the two caliper bolts like the video, only the two 14mm nuts. Once we had some slack we had to push the caliper pistons back and finally wiggle the whole calipers out. The hardest part was trying to align the two giude pins to line up with the calipers and the pads. The thing I find out that seem like a bad design was in order to just change the pads, you would have to remove the whole caliper. They should have made it where you could remove the "bridge" of the caliper and just slide the pads out. Like StopTech or AP racing. It would be much faster and easier for pad changes. But since I was change the rotors as well it didn't make a difference. Also I didn't end up greasing the back of the pads or contact areas of the calipers. I did use BMW pads and they came with back plates. If you guys have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to answer them.
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      06-29-2020, 03:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-tech7 View Post
So I finally did the brake change this weekend with the help of my brother in law. Took our time with it and done about 3hrs. Everything was going well but did struggle a little with getting the brake calipers on and off. We had to remove the brake line and pad senor bracket off in order to give us slack to slide the caliper off. Two 10mm nuts. No room with conventional sockets, so had to use open ended and ratcheting wrenches. We didn't remove the two caliper bolts like the video, only the two 14mm nuts. Once we had some slack we had to push the caliper pistons back and finally wiggle the whole calipers out. The hardest part was trying to align the two giude pins to line up with the calipers and the pads. The thing I find out that seem like a bad design was in order to just change the pads, you would have to remove the whole caliper. They should have made it where you could remove the "bridge" of the caliper and just slide the pads out. Like StopTech or AP racing. It would be much faster and easier for pad changes. But since I was change the rotors as well it didn't make a difference. Also I didn't end up greasing the back of the pads or contact areas of the calipers. I did use BMW pads and they came with back plates. If you guys have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to answer them.
The calipers used on the M are monoblock they a molded piece of aluminum that makes them more rigid than calipers that use a bridge bolt,They are better calipers but changing pads make it more difficult
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