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      01-02-2019, 01:12 PM   #1
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Battery replacement

Does anyone know what's the best AH for battery replacement in the M6 GC?

90 ah, 92 ah or 105 ah? I checked realoem.com and it stated all three as an option.

I remember reading about 90 ah was too low for the M5 & M6 and they moved to 105 ah to resolve the issue. However, in the realoem.com seems updated the following spec at the latest recommendation

01 Original BMW AGM-battery 90 AH 1 10/2018 61216924023

In addition, I checked with rockauto for battery options and they have 90, 92 and 105 as an option, too.

I'm just wondering has anyone replaced their battery and what did you use?
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      01-03-2019, 02:57 AM   #2
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I don't see why you wouldn't go with the biggest, however I am aware of some issues with serial numbers and coding the battery to the car...probably worth a call to the dealer.
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      01-03-2019, 08:28 AM   #3
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The 105Ah 61 21 7 604 808 is for all M6 incl. the LCI models. Whereas the 92Ah for the pre-LCI was.
As per ETK.
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      01-03-2019, 11:15 AM   #4
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If a battery is changed, does it have to be coded to the car? What tool is needed to code it?
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      01-03-2019, 11:48 AM   #5
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Yep, but don’t ask me about the tool.
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      01-03-2019, 12:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whipple View Post
If a battery is changed, does it have to be coded to the car? What tool is needed to code it?
It should be registered..
https://bimmertips.com/bmw-battery-r...ing-explained/

Apps like Carly can do it.

I use ISTA-D



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      01-04-2019, 08:48 AM   #7
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can also be done with foxwell tools such as the NT510

http://www.foxwellmall.com/wholesale...languages.html
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      01-04-2019, 12:15 PM   #8
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This is the dilemma for every BMW owner out there actually....or every owner to cares about their car. I had the same issue with my X5, there are 3 capacity batteries that will fit, 90, 92, 105. In theory, you want the largest one, the 105.

When I took it to the dealer, they said they recommend sticking to the same battery that the car was equipped with. Mine was already the 105 from the factory, so they gave me a 105. I would advise you ask this question to the dealer.

And yes, you'll need to get the battery coded eventually. Your timing is actually good right now. During the winter, the dealership runs a mail-in-rebate program for battery installs and it's about the same price as buying an OEM battery and paying an indy code it for you. That's what I did, I wanted the piece of mind that the coding was going to get done right.
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      01-04-2019, 10:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by castlesteve View Post
can also be done with foxwell tools such as the NT510

http://www.foxwellmall.com/wholesale...languages.html
Ok cool Thanks , do you know if this scan tool retract the rear calipers for a pad change?
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      01-05-2019, 03:15 PM   #10
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys!

I tested the battery and it's still good. Recharged it using an external charger solved this issue. From my research an AGM can last up to 8 years if you take care of it.

I think because I drive short distances and not over 2k rpm often. In addition, I live in a cold place so it didn't help. To keep the battery fresh, I'll have to recharge it once every few weeks.


So the issue I encounter was a message of "increased discharge battery" appeared after I shutdown the car. I thought the battery couldn't hold charge anymore; therefore, either the alternator or the battery was bad. I tested the alternator and battery, and it was all good! Anyways, I just wanted to point it out in case someone runs into the same issue would help them out. Always test it first and confirm that's the issue.

Last edited by JC04; 01-05-2019 at 03:31 PM..
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      01-06-2019, 08:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC04 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions, guys!

I tested the battery and it's still good. Recharged it using an external charger solved this issue. From my research an AGM can last up to 8 years if you take care of it.

I think because I drive short distances and not over 2k rpm often. In addition, I live in a cold place so it didn't help. To keep the battery fresh, I'll have to recharge it once every few weeks.


So the issue I encounter was a message of "increased discharge battery" appeared after I shutdown the car. I thought the battery couldn't hold charge anymore; therefore, either the alternator or the battery was bad. I tested the alternator and battery, and it was all good! Anyways, I just wanted to point it out in case someone runs into the same issue would help them out. Always test it first and confirm that's the issue.
My car sits a lot in the winter, I will take it out on nice days , but when it sits,I hook up a trickle charger to keep the battery healthy, it only takes 2 mins to hook up
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      02-18-2019, 02:56 AM   #12
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Since I learned a lot from this forum. I figure I give back something. The message was to answer another post over the M5 forum but I think it would be helpful for the M6 forum, too.

I got an AMG charger and charged it overnight. However, I still got the increased discharge battery after 2-3 days of moderate driving. It was annoying so I decided to replace it before I get stuck in subzero temperatures. After one month with the new battery, everything is good and my electronic still operates 100% correctly. I left town for 9 days, and left the car in subzero temperatures without the trickle charger connected. It started right up when I got home and no increased discharge battery message either.


BMW m5/6 use AGM batteries. In the US, there are 3 manufactures that make majority/all AGM batteries or car batteries in general. Those are East Penn behind the well known Deka brand, Exide and Johnson Controls. All/most battery brands are a relabel from one of those manufactures.

From 2012-2013 M5s were using a 92 AH battery but couldn't supply enough power to last so BMW replaced with a 105 AH to resolve the issue. After 2013, I believe m5/m6 all come with 105 AH batteries.
The link below is from BMW of South Atlanta. It shows replacement batteries are either from East Penn or Exide
https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...rimLevel=11862

So with all the facts presented, let’s get to the next step. Where to buy it?

Like I said earlier most battery brands are just a relabel from one of those manufactures. Example, Super Start Platinum from Orielys autoparts is actually East Penn battery. I gave that example because this auto store is widely available in most states and the cheapest in prices. batteriesplus.com resales East Penn AGM batteries, too. If you look up a battery brand from your local places and search it online. Most likely it's from one of those manufactures. It looks like BMW uses East Penn and Exide for supplying batteries in the US. Furthermore, you can go to the website of those two companies and see the specs. you’ll see it matches exactly from CCA to the physical measurements and weights.

I have seen a lot of posts about how you need to use only BMW batteries or else electronic will fail. Not sure where people get that information or just their opinions without facts. A battery is a battery, as long as you have the correct specs, and from a quality manufacture, it should be the same. In addition, BMW isn’t manufacturing their own batteries. They have suppliers providing them with batteries. More than likely East Penn and Exide are their suppliers in the U.S.

I typed this long message because I saw so many misinformation out there, and I hope this will help someone without getting ripped off from BMW dealers. I don’t hate BMW dealers, I use their services from time to time, but the battery service is just a rip off. They want 500+ to replace a battery that cost less than 200 bucks from a retail store. I bet they bought it under 130 bucks a piece (guessing/opinion here).

Finally, how to replace it? Just replace it like any other cars with the exception you need to code it afterwards. It seems like it’s easier to stick with the same AH your car currently using so you don’t have to reprogram to a new AH.

Last edited by JC04; 02-18-2019 at 03:08 AM..
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      02-19-2019, 12:59 AM   #13
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From my own personal experience replace it with a similar AH rating and Cold Cranking Amps in specs. I do not use OEM batteries on my Porsche(gt3,gts) or bmw e92 m3 .My m6 has a oem battery but i will replace it with a braille battery when it is in need of replacing.
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      02-19-2019, 09:58 AM   #14
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If you do it at dealership, they will recommend you stick to the same battery capacity as your prior one.
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      03-22-2019, 06:22 PM   #15
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So today I arrived at airport from business trip and my battery was dead... in my M6GC. So I thought...go get a battery and install. So I got her started with a small jump from airport security and went off to the auto parts store. I bought a correctly specified AGM with 105ah, 950 CCA, etc.. Off comes the negative, off comes the positive.... in goes new battery, reconnect positive, then reconnect negative (who hasn't done this 1,000 times in a lifetime of hobby wrenching)...... button all up... go to leave parts store, and M6 will not start....has several major fault codes.... end up towing to Dealer and now waiting to hear their diagnosis.... so any ideas what I did wrong?
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      03-23-2019, 04:06 PM   #16
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Have a look at post #6
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      03-24-2019, 08:44 AM   #17
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Update... at the auto parts store I forgot to mention the parts person had plugged a "memory saver" into the OBDII port on the BMW.... seemed insignificant to me at the moment, but now my M6GC is at the dealership because it will not start....anyone ever heard of using such a device?
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      03-25-2019, 11:01 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malcoll View Post
Update... at the auto parts store I forgot to mention the parts person had plugged a "memory saver" into the OBDII port on the BMW.... seemed insignificant to me at the moment, but now my M6GC is at the dealership because it will not start....anyone ever heard of using such a device?
I know we through two words out..."code" and "register"...in regards to replacing the car's battery...and we (the BMW community as a whole) tend to not whole-heartedly distinguish between the two.

Anytime you replace your old battery with a new battery...it needs to be "registered". You didn't mention in your post if this was done. Plugging in a "memory saver" is not the same thing as registering the battery.

If the specs of your new battery is different than your old battery...then not only will you need to "register" the new replacement...you will also need to recode the information to update it to the specs that are different than the old battery.
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      03-25-2019, 11:54 PM   #19
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I should have done a better job at stating the correct technical words in my posts. Qsliver7 is correct about the "Register" and "Code".

In addition, you need to REGISTER your new battery with the instructions posted above and several people already pointed that out, too. This is easy for people that know how, but difficult without experience.

Furthermore, the memory saver connector the part guy plugged in didn't help. Don't let anyone mess with your car electronic unless they're certified BMW tech or a shop that knows and have equipment for BMW. I read some articles about that memory saver, and supposedly the experts against it. They stated it can damage your electronics.

I hope your case is just register the new battery to resolve it. GL
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      04-27-2019, 08:00 PM   #20
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As an update.... the "memory saver" was not "registering" the battery or "coding" the new battery to the car... it was a device (apparently) that was designed to send electricity into the car to hold all the memorized stations, settings, etc.. Well....don't ever let anyone do that to your 2010 or later BMW because that device "blew out" my main communication module and the "hi fi amp" module.... total cost to get her back on the road.....wait for it....$5300. I am now waiting for the auto parts store to send me the check to reimburse me for this....... so just don't do it.....
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      04-27-2019, 08:53 PM   #21
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So how much would have it been had you registered it at the dealership at the start?

You always have the option to buy the 3rd party AGM battery at an auto parts store and take it in to dealership to code it.

I've done the math on pricing, if you can get the $50-$100 OEM battery rebate that they do annually during the winter, it's worth it doing it all at the dealership. You'll pay maybe $100 more at the dealership versus piecing it together (auto parts AGM + coding), but you get a loaner and you get it done right.
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      04-29-2019, 11:38 AM   #22
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wow, $5k that is crazy. I'm glad they're paying for it.
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