Window pulls back again

[dahammax]

My gran coupe window when reaching a certain level 1/2 way it pulls back down (not fully) , so i have to push the button up multiple times in short intervals so it does not pull back.
It is very annoying

What is the issue?
Regulator?
Dinemo?
Rubbers?

[Opie55]

Curious what a "dinemo" is? Anyway, what is happening is that your window motor has a built-in pinch protection feature to keep little kids, etc. from having their fingers pinched when the window is raised. It senses resistance and goes back down. The cause for a false trigger can be several things. But one is a weak battery. Mine has done it on three different windows, but never on a fully charged or new battery. Second is that the feature itself inside the motor is defective. Third is actual resistance somewhere - binding in a regulator going bad, poor lubrication, poor alignment, dry rubber seals (or a combination of these things). As for raising it, usually it will go up in one pull of you pull the switch full up and hold it there within like 5 seconds of the window lowering.

[ian190]

Mine does the same especially when is hot

[martin mustang]

I have the same issue but only with the front passenger window, so from the above scenarios I am assuming my issue is not battery related but more likely the other scenarios, I got my dealer to check it out and found no obvious reason, but since my alarm started going off randomly, so two issue instead of one
Did any of you folks resolve the issue with window?
I am planning a second visit to the dealer for both issues, the Alarm one is annoying, and find myself opening the car remotely and waiting for it to lock after few minutes to stop the Alarm going off. I am suspecting when checking the window alignment, if I recall they took it off and back again they must triggered this new Alarm issue.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by martin mustang

I have the same issue but only with the front passenger window, so from the above scenarios I am assuming my issue is not battery related but more likely the other scenarios, I got my dealer to check it out and found no obvious reason, but since my alarm started going off randomly, so two issue instead of one
Did any of you folks resolve the issue with window?
I am planning a second visit to the dealer for both issues, the Alarm one is annoying, and find myself opening the car remotely and waiting for it to lock after few minutes to stop the Alarm going off. I am suspecting when checking the window alignment, if I recall they took it off and back again they must triggered this new Alarm issue.

If you think it could be the interior motion sensor or the tilt sensor...you can deactivate those two sensors by doing a 2nd press of the lock button (within 10 seconds of the 1st press).

You should also see the red LED (clown nose) below the interior rear view mirror flash differently to indicate that the IMS & Tilt sensors have been deactivated.

Info from the owners manual about deactivation of sensors and the Status LED info:

[martin mustang]

Thanks, completely forgot about the option, worth trying to work out what triggering the alarm, this way I can check if it is the sensors or something else.

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

If you think it could be the interior motion sensor or the tilt sensor...you can deactivate those two sensors by doing a 2nd press of the lock button (within 10 seconds of the 1st press).

You should also see the red LED (clown nose) below the interior rear view mirror flash differently to indicate that the IMS & Tilt sensors have been deactivated.

Info from the owners manual about deactivation of sensors and the Status LED info:

[AndyTiskF06]

Similar issue with the front passenger window on a 2015 Gran Coupe, would be interested if anyone has found a solution or at least pin pointed the problem

[machareus]

I had this problem as well. I took it into the dealer and they said that there was a fault for the window motor being unable to be initialized, therefore the motor had to be replaced.

They did it on the passenger side even though I indicated the problem was on both sides in the front, and now I have no problem with the passenger window and occasionally still have the issue with the driver window.

Total was $638 for labor and $235 for parts (for just one window motor replacement).

[Ralph III]

I'm experiencing the same issue at times with the rear driver window on our 2018 650i. One thing I noticed is, if I push the window button up in letting it raise/lower as desired, it works fine. The issue only appears when I engage the switch fully in raising/lowering the window. I'm assuming it's a switch and/or a sensor issue with ours. I'll be taking it in soon for them to troubleshoot.

Ralph

[martin mustang]

Hi folks, my car is booked in for the week after next, but lately on top of my alarm going off normally soon after I lock the car, couple of timers it went off in the middle of the night, today I discovered my window on the driver side is lowering itself to the position before the door is closed like an inch, it is doing this randomly car locked or not, I am guessing this maybe why the alarm is going off hours after I locked my car, I googled this and come across instructions on how to do a reset and calibration for F10 windows, cannot find instructions for the F06, knowing we have frameless doors, I am not sure I want to give the F10 instruction a go, as this process consist of resetting the close and open position, but for our model the close is not one position as such, I mean window lowers and goes back up once door shut, does anyone know how reset and do the calibration of an F06 window? this may solve all the problems, if not I guess I am looking at new window motors hopefully not!

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by martin mustang

I am not sure I want to give the F10 instruction a go, as this process consist of resetting the close and open position, but for our model the close is not one position as such, I mean window lowers and goes back up once door shut, does anyone know how reset and do the calibration of an F06 window? this may solve all the problems, if not I guess I am looking at new window motors hopefully not!

Initializing the close & open position is the same for the 5/6/7/x5/x6/x7. The F06/f12/f13 window drop is a separate feature than the close/open initialization. The only instruction that is different is for the f12 (6 series convertible)…where it says to lower the top or raise the top based on build date range.

In all the models mentioned above…the procedure is carried out with the door CLOSED…so again, the drop/rise parameter when the f 6 series doors are opened/closed apparently isn’t an issue because its not mentioned.

Are these the instructions you saw?

Necessary preliminary work:
Vehicle stationary
Sufficient battery voltage available / connect charger if necessary
Terminal ”15” switched on
All doors closed
F12 up to 02/2012 soft top open, from 03/2012 soft top closed


Operating procedure for initialisation (manual):
Deleting the initialisation:
Move side window into lower end position.
Press and hold switch in ”Open one-touch function” position (second switch position) for between 15 and 25 seconds.
Note:
Deletion of initialisation was successful if toll function and anti-trap mechanism have been rendered inoperative.

Performing initialisation:
Move side window to upper end position
Pull and hold switch in ”Close one-touch function” (2nd switch position) during the entire process.
Note:
Re-initialisation was successful if toll function and anti-trap mechanism function flawlessly.

[martin mustang]

Thanks, Qsilver7, yep this was the procedure I was considering doing, but after my posting my driver's side window started going up and down on a more frequent basis, from closed to about an inch down (before shutting doors position), so planned to put my car in the garage when I noticed a low battery message on my idrive, the car will simply not start! I had this message before me thinking it was triggered by the Alarm going off, but this time the battery was on low. I am not sure if all my problems are related to the battery, or the Alarm and windows are draining the battery, my bet is more or the latter one, as I used my car daily, with never any battery issues.
So plugged in my Ctek for the night, in the morning it is still at stage 3, this phase takes up to 20h according to Ctek manual, so waiting! my guess is this new window opening on its own linked to the low battery, and the low battery is triggered by the Alarm/ window issue, my Alarm problem started after a visit to my garage to work on the passenger window, playing up each time I try to close it, they removed the window and cleaned the inside, and since the Alarm issue started, the switching off of the interior movement sensor with my key has no effect, so not sure what is trigerring the alram.
I now just hope I can get the battery back charged so I can drive it to the Dealer.

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Initializing the close & open position is the same for the 5/6/7/x5/x6/x7. The F06/f12/f13 window drop is a separate feature than the close/open initialization. The only instruction that is different is for the f12 (6 series convertible)…where it says to lower the top or raise the top based on build date range.

In all the models mentioned above…the procedure is carried out with the door CLOSED…so again, the drop/rise parameter when the f 6 series doors are opened/closed apparently isn’t an issue because its not mentioned.

Are these the instructions you saw?

Necessary preliminary work:
Vehicle stationary
Sufficient battery voltage available / connect charger if necessary
Terminal ”15” switched on
All doors closed
F12 up to 02/2012 soft top open, from 03/2012 soft top closed


Operating procedure for initialisation (manual):
Deleting the initialisation:
Move side window into lower end position.
Press and hold switch in ”Open one-touch function” position (second switch position) for between 15 and 25 seconds.
Note:
Deletion of initialisation was successful if toll function and anti-trap mechanism have been rendered inoperative.

Performing initialisation:
Move side window to upper end position
Pull and hold switch in ”Close one-touch function” (2nd switch position) during the entire process.
Note:
Re-initialisation was successful if toll function and anti-trap mechanism function flawlessly.

[Qsilver7]

Good luck. And do be cognizant of how you’re parked in a garage or a tight parking space when having battery issues.

I say that because our cars can’t be put into neutral easily if you need to jump start the vehicle…because it needs power to be put into neutral. If you’ve pulled into the garage (forward) then the jump start terminals in the engine bay may not be easily accessible and you shouldn’t jump directly to the battery…so in low battery situations, you may want to back into your garage so in case you need a “jump” to start the car, you can pop the hood to quickly access the jump start terminals in the engine bay.

In your case, you’re in a better situation since you do have a battery charger/tender.

[martin mustang]

Stating the car was not an option, so left it on my drive with an outside plug just around the corner it was nicely setup for the battery charger, once done the car now behaves as normal, i.e. locks with the windows all up, so far no alarm going off randomly too, touch wood! but when I went for a drive, every time I switched the engine off, it comes up with the message "Battery discharged start engine" this is after another message stating that the battery is discharging while ignition off...
So back on the ctek charger for the night, and will raise it with my garage, not sure if the issues I had was down all along to battery, I somehow still believe the battery got to what is now because of the Alarm more likely triggered by faulty windows, after all the interior movement senor is not behind the alarm as I cancelled it with every lock.

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Good luck. And do be cognizant of how you’re parked in a garage or a tight parking space when having battery issues.

I say that because our cars can’t be put into neutral easily if you need to jump start the vehicle…because it needs power to be put into neutral. If you’ve pulled into the garage (forward) then the jump start terminals in the engine bay may not be easily accessible and you shouldn’t jump directly to the battery…so in low battery situations, you may want to back into your garage so in case you need a “jump” to start the car, you can pop the hood to quickly access the jump start terminals in the engine bay.

In your case, you’re in a better situation since you do have a battery charger/tender.

[BrandChemist]

I have the same issue. But I have a weird symptom that may lend a clue as to whats really wrong. My windows work perfectly fine WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING. Its only when I am stopped do the driver and passenger windows go bananas with a mind of their own. I also have to go up in 2 inch increments in order to get them all the way up.
I thought I was a genius when I considered the alternator may be why the windows work when the car is moving, so it MUST be a battery problem. Checked the battery, and sure enough, it was only producing half power. I MUST be right! Right? $300 later with a new battery and the windows are still wonkadoo. /facepalm

The stealership says I need 2 new window motors, but why would the motors be broken if they work perfectly fine while driving?

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by BrandChemist

I have the same issue. But I have a weird symptom that may lend a clue as to whats really wrong. My windows work perfectly fine WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING. Its only when I am stopped do the driver and passenger windows go bananas with a mind of their own. I also have to go up in 2 inch increments in order to get them all the way up.
I thought I was a genius when I considered the alternator may be why the windows work when the car is moving, so it MUST be a battery problem. Checked the battery, and sure enough, it was only producing half power. I MUST be right! Right? $300 later with a new battery and the windows are still wonkadoo. /facepalm

The stealership says I need 2 new window motors, but why would the motors be broken if they work perfectly fine while driving?

When you say "stopped" do you mean engine still running, like at a red light, or do you mean engine off?

[LA640WS]

Originally Posted by dahammax

My gran coupe window when reaching a certain level 1/2 way it pulls back down (not fully) , so i have to push the button up multiple times in short intervals so it does not pull back.
It is very annoying

What is the issue?
Regulator?
Dinemo?
Rubbers?

For me, it was the rear pass vert window. It would go up 3/4 way then decide to go back down, but not all the way. Similar to what you're experiencing.

What I did to remedy was to take a microfiber towel and run several passes in between the rubber where the window sits when it's fully closed. Kinda shape the rubber back to a proper seating channel. I realized the rubber started contracting a bit due to minimal use. Good luck

Cheers

[martin mustang]

Hi folks,

Update from my side, I am collecting my car tomorrow, it needed a new motor for my passenger window with the issue hesitating to go all the way up when closing, as for the battery it was traced down to a problem with driver door lock, all be it I never had any issue with locking my car, a new lock was needed, so hopefully all the issues resolved when collecting my car tomorrow.
I am very happy with my dealer service, they manage to get BMW to cover all the costs as a Goodwill due to my over 25 years of custom, my 2-year warranty expired a month before my booking, so lucky, I guess! That got me thinking is it worth considering a BMW warranty purchase?

[suj999]

Have a very similar issue,

The driver side window when closing has a habit of stopping half way and rolling back a few inches.. This doesn't always happen and may happen about 1 in 6 times.
So far I have taken the car to be looked at twice with the same issue under warranty.



Both times I was advised that the window had been 're-initialised' and no further faults found.

Not sure where to go from here as it won't do it when they are testing it. But the problem is clearly there.

[martin mustang]

Just like my car, a new Window Motor was needed, it was covered under warranty.

Originally Posted by suj999

Have a very similar issue,

The driver side window when closing has a habit of stopping half way and rolling back a few inches.. This doesn't always happen and may happen about 1 in 6 times.
So far I have taken the car to be looked at twice with the same issue under warranty.



Both times I was advised that the window had been 're-initialised' and no further faults found.

Not sure where to go from here as it won't do it when they are testing it. But the problem is clearly there.

[biostar]

Front passenger window also acting similarly. I would just roll the window all the way down then pull and hold the up button until it rolls all the way up.

[lbmh]

Same with my driver and left passenger windows.

I have noticed that if I slightly pull the faulty windows inward while it is closing then the glitch vanishes.

Most likely a case of excess rubbing.