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      05-03-2018, 12:25 PM   #1
danbk
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Engine Failure. Seized? HELP

Hey guys, unfortunately I believe my engine is Toast.

Driving on the freeway, sport settings, downshifted into second gear to roughly 6500 RPM, car is DCT. Car limped and engine shut off within 2 seconds. I was on a ramp and somehow managed to pull it aside on an high incline. Car had no signs of ticking or knocking, engine oil was changed 1 month ago, and I filled up the oil recently to max. I check the engine oil every week or so and it was at max. Had the car towed(disaster) as we couldn't get into it Neutral so we had to literally drag it on a flatbed(twice). After hours of roadside and towing, got it to my BMW mechanic, and he said the engine is most likely seized, with oil probably running extremely low. We checked for leaks, and I have a garage where there is 0 oil leak in my driveway. There were NO knocks, as I know these rod bearing issues and always kept an ear out for it. Went to 3 reputable BMW shops, and they told me it is 99% seized. It cranks with one tick and then just dies. No engine noise, battery charged. Can't be the starter because it happened at highway speed I'm assuming. Everyone is telling me the scenario that I need a new engine, complete swap, which I can't afford and don't want to do(due to resale difficulty). They all suggest not to rebuild, since it will cost a little less but more complicated and riskier.

Anyone have a similar experience? Car is completely stock, 50k Miles. I maintained the car well, did all fluid changes, pan changes, plug, ignitions, filters, all of the regular Maintenance.

I am really worried on dropping $15K+ on a USED Motor swap, as the car cost me roughly $<50K. Car ran totally fine, of course it was driven the way an M6 is meant to be, but not often.

Any input/advice and opinions would be appreciated, I'm really hoping for something less severe. Thanks for your time!
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      05-03-2018, 01:17 PM   #2
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damn, man, that SUCKS. RIght after warranty too. Not sure how the forum can help w out diagnosing, but it sounds like the mechanics are right. You may save some $$ on a engine swap by taking it to a non dealership BMW master tech shop. Thats terrible, how did the oil get so low!? Maybe your oil meter reader was reading incorrectly..? GL w the rebuild man.
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      05-03-2018, 01:24 PM   #3
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I highly doubt it was the oil. I literally check it when I just sit in my driveway bored. I checked it no longer than two weeks ago. It was 2-3 quarters max, just added a quart to avoid it for at least 1k miles,1 month. I checked it two days later, MAX level. Two weeks later, this happens. I highly doubt it is the oil, and if it was, makes me feel twice as bad cause I didn't check it in a few weeks, which is Normal regardless. If it was running that low the computer would've warned me as it did in the past. I tested the gauge pre-add on and about hour or two after, it seemed accurate. If it was halfway min/max, I put half a quart, it'd go to full/max. Seemed fine to me.
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      05-03-2018, 03:06 PM   #4
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damn, highly unlikely its oil level then dude. UNless you got a leaking drain bolt. Or the engine is burning THAT much oil copiously. The S63TU is more or less relatively issue free compared to other BMW engines.. Not sure, its def gonna need an internal inspection before you know for sure what failed.
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      05-03-2018, 03:15 PM   #5
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Rebuild attempt or used complete swap? Opinion?

I would really love to see internally what went wrong, but if I do an engine swap, for them to tear apart the engine, is it worth the extra labor? Damn man I'm really mad it blew, makes me think of all the times I didn't warm it up for longer or gassing it too much few minutes after start. Trying to see if my model was part of the oil pump recall which causes this, but I doubt BMW will care past warranty period. Was literally about to do a full tune, catless dp, filter delete, all the good stuff this week.
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      05-03-2018, 03:21 PM   #6
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How far out of warranty? You might inquire with BMW USA and see about a good faith repair... I mean 50k miles with no mods. Assuming you've done all your maintenance, I really think they can at least help you out.
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      05-03-2018, 03:25 PM   #7
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I am approx a year and few months out of warranty. Bought it used when the warranty period just expired. I had the mechanics check remanaf engines for the car and they want $27,500! Can get a used one 20-30k miles for approx 10k.
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      05-03-2018, 03:36 PM   #8
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I would still call BMW corporate. Regardless if you bought it used or not, the dealer can make sure all maintenance was kept up. If it was... I really feel they will be honorable.
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      05-05-2018, 04:58 AM   #9
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Will try calling Monday. Anyone have any other suggestions? Could it possibly be something else? Any advice is appreciated. Ty
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      05-05-2018, 01:36 PM   #10
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Sorry you’re going through this curious to know before I start modding.
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      05-06-2018, 01:14 PM   #11
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Got a potential deal for a complete motor swap for roughly $8500 with labor, motor has approx 30k miles. Is it worth just to rebuild it? Not looking to do anything past a tune and catless dp. Anyone think I just rebuild for the long run? Still trying to figure out how this happened, but requires a full tear apart which will run me 1-2k for labor alone. No knocking noise whatsoever for rod bearings . Anyone do a rebuild lately? Cost?
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      05-07-2018, 09:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbk View Post
Got a potential deal for a complete motor swap for roughly $8500 with labor, motor has approx 30k miles. Is it worth just to rebuild it? Not looking to do anything past a tune and catless dp. Anyone think I just rebuild for the long run? Still trying to figure out how this happened, but requires a full tear apart which will run me 1-2k for labor alone. No knocking noise whatsoever for rod bearings . Anyone do a rebuild lately? Cost?
You should definitely contact BMW of North America via email. They will call you. Ask if they can work with you.

I am an e92 M3 driver and did this to have my airbags serviced early as a result of the takata airbag recall.

Are they able to bring up any codes of any kind? This sounds really unfortunate. I am sorry this happened. I am currently researching an M6 as an upgrade. I was lucky to own an M3 that didn't have rod bearing issues.
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      05-07-2018, 09:57 PM   #13
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Also $8500 sounds like a pretty good deal for the engine. I'd likely have to pay more than that for mine.

I suggest also posting on bmw CCA if you don't get a favorable outcome. Lastly, see if your insurance company can help you. Just say the engine seized and your unsure of what to do.
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      05-08-2018, 04:49 PM   #14
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I am trying to work with them, but its gonna be extremely difficult. What drives me nuts is that there was absolutely no symptoms, car was running great. No codes, even after the failure. Crank is locked in ,cant turn it manually. Problem with a swapped motor is its gonna be 30K+ miles engine anyway, with a potential problem waiting to happen again. And don't wanna waste more money and labor on them opening that one up too to check on the internal components.
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      05-08-2018, 05:55 PM   #15
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Any decent modern mechanic can use a bore scope to look inside and see what failed. Should not cost more than $500 for a full exam. Oil can be drained to see if dry.

Not sure I follow what this means: "It was 2-3 quarters max, just added a quart to avoid it for at least 1k miles,1 month..." If you let it get down 3 quarts, you could have caused damage. never drive any distance with oil that low.
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      05-08-2018, 06:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjposner View Post
Any decent modern mechanic can use a bore scope to look inside and see what failed. Should not cost more than $500 for a full exam. Oil can be drained to see if dry.

Not sure I follow what this means: "It was 2-3 quarters max, just added a quart to avoid it for at least 1k miles,1 month..." If you let it get down 3 quarts, you could have caused damage. never drive any distance with oil that low.
Yep, I'm unsure what that means too and I hope you didn't overfill it. That can have bad consequences too.
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      05-08-2018, 07:18 PM   #17
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I would suggest getting in touch with Troy Jeup. He is big in the e60 world rebuilding and selling engines. I've been away from those cars for 5+ years so haven't kept up, but two of my friends here local have cars with his motors including one that is a 6.0 V10 Stroker and I've only heard good from them. I have to imagine that he has gotten into the turbo V8's at this point in fact I'm pretty sure last time I was on M5board years ago he was working on a few V8's. Think he was up North somewhere maybe New Jersey so depending on where in NY could be relatively close to you. Definitely worth a shot though if bmwna won't help. hope things go as good as possible for you this is definitely a nightmare situation and a reminder that I've got just 6 months before cpo ends on ours!
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      05-08-2018, 07:53 PM   #18
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There is a lot of shops out in NY/NJ, that do this stuff literally every day. 30-40 M's in their lot and lifts, like 15 lifts no exaggeration.

By 2-3 Quarters I mean when I measure my oil through the car, between minimum and max, 2-3 Quarters, as in 50%-75% full on the meter, I would add on, and check it occasionally.
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      05-09-2018, 07:34 AM   #19
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Okay, just making sure you didn't mean 2 or 3 quarts low.

I would look for as used engine from a totaled car (rear end collision). That way you can verify service history by vin search with dealer.
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      05-09-2018, 08:56 PM   #20
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What do you mean by "It cranks with one tick and then just dies"?
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      05-13-2018, 05:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbk View Post
There is a lot of shops out in NY/NJ, that do this stuff literally every day. 30-40 M's in their lot and lifts, like 15 lifts no exaggeration.

By 2-3 Quarters I mean when I measure my oil through the car, between minimum and max, 2-3 Quarters, as in 50%-75% full on the meter, I would add on, and check it occasionally.
Can you please name a couple for my reference, in case the unthinkable should happen?
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      05-17-2018, 04:25 PM   #22
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Update from the dealership:

They simply cannot help me. They drained the oil and found metal particles all around. I am guessing my rod bearings went bad and caused the complete seize. Only way I can get any help is from BMWNA directly, not through the local service BMW dealership. Spoke to the manager, and he said due to the fact warranty is out, it makes it much harder for him to get any approval. The oil pump recall cannot be determined as the reason unless I allow them to tear open the engine completely, and if they determine it was not, I have to pay thousands of dollars for a meaningless break down.

Anyone have any advice for who to email as far as corporate? Any specific email addresses? Phone calls don't work as it is just reps taking notes and basically telling me they don't know what to tell me. I have a lot of pointers I think BMW will consider but then again it all depends who I speak to. Someone also mentioned BMW CCA being able to assist me? I am honestly not too familiar with them.

Thank You.
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