Current BMW oil grade

[mikerx5]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Ditto FlyingAce on this one, too. This has been a rather long debate/discussion over the decades...but all of my BMW owners manual going back to my 1985 e30 325e says the same thing...to drive right away on a cold engine instead of idling for long periods.

I idle long enough to get my seat belt on and then I'm off at a moderate driving style...paying attention to the engine and transmission. If it's really cold weather and the engine is revving high...I may give it a few seconds to settle down...but again that only takes usually less than 30 seconds.

From my f06 owners manual:

Correct but when you turn it on, the rpms sit at 1200 or so for about 10 seconds then drop correct?

[arucano]

It is a good practice to wait that initial 10 seconds or so for the oil to distribute all the way though the engine before moving off. I keep my cars for long time time and run up the mileage on them with a long commute.

[mikerx5]

Originally Posted by arucano

It is a good practice to wait that initial 10 seconds or so for the oil to distribute all the way though the engine before moving off. I keep my cars for long time time and run up the mileage on them with a long commute.

Bingo - got it

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by mikerx5

Correct but when you turn it on, the rpms sit at 1200 or so for about 10 seconds then drop correct?

Yes...and that is about the amount of time it takes to get the seat belt on, the radio set to a station I want to listen to or other media, and turning the steering wheel heater on and setting the seat heaters to lo/med/high. That doesn't take 3- 5 minutes or more of idling.

[mikerx5]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Yes...and that is about the amount of time it takes to get the seat belt on, the radio set to a station I want to listen to or other media, and turning the steering wheel heater on and setting the seat heaters to lo/med/high. That doesn't take 3- 5 minutes or more of idling.

Ok thats what im doing. Soon as it drops im gone! Thx

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER

after getting some oil analysis back from blackstone on the oem oil, liqui moly liechlauf 5w-40, and molygen 5w-40, they all have a high failure rate at operating temperature in the s63tu, the notes on my oil reports are that the oil is thinning out at operating temp. the 30 weight acts more like a 20 weight at temp, and the 40 more like a 30 at temp

my next plan is to try out the redline 5w-50. its used in the DOHC mustangs. it has a really good sheer strength.

there are plenty of issues with the engines from a design aspect, but dont lose sleep over it.

That's interesting. Coincidentally I just received my oil report back today from Blackstone using OEM 0-30. I'll post it later when I have some time but basically it said that at my OCI my oil has good sheer. But I want your take on it when you see it.

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Yes...and that is about the amount of time it takes to get the seat belt on, the radio set to a station I want to listen to or other media, and turning the steering wheel heater on and setting the seat heaters to lo/med/high. That doesn't take 3- 5 minutes or more of idling.

about 10 seconds is about how long it takes me to also get out of my driveway. I'm pretty sure putting the car in reverse for the first 10 seconds pretty much the same as idling for 10 seconds.

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER

after getting some oil analysis back from blackstone on the oem oil, liqui moly liechlauf 5w-40, and molygen 5w-40, they all have a high failure rate at operating temperature in the s63tu, the notes on my oil reports are that the oil is thinning out at operating temp. the 30 weight acts more like a 20 weight at temp, and the 40 more like a 30 at temp

my next plan is to try out the redline 5w-50. its used in the DOHC mustangs. it has a really good sheer strength.

there are plenty of issues with the engines from a design aspect, but dont lose sleep over it.

See below. What do you think?

[RagtagXMASTER]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

See below. What do you think?

The report looks good for the most part to be honest. you have no significant wear which is very good here is my last reports in a google doc, i even assigned color coding as to what values are good or bad. red is bad, green is good.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

you can see the main differences in the oil viscosity

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER

The report looks good for the most part to be honest. you have no significant wear which is very good here is my last reports in a google doc, i even assigned color coding as to what values are good or bad. red is bad, green is good.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

you can see the main differences in the oil viscosity

I can see your viscosity is significantly better. But that's to be expected of a 40 weight oil.

[NorthCountryGuy]

I’ve been a fan of Mobil I synthetics for years on all my vehicles from V10 Super Duty trucks to a 30 year old Porsche. They’ve always done well. Good zinc content out of the jug.
On all my BMW’s I use 5W-40 Formula M.
45.84 for a boxed six pack or 7.60 a quart an Amazon. Light enough for winter use in the X’s, but high enough viscosity for year round use.

[RagtagXMASTER]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

I can see your viscosity is significantly better. But that's to be expected of a 40 weight oil.

The differences in mine as that they still thin out under temperature. My 5w-30 acted like a 20 and my 5w-40 acted like a 30. So jumping up to the 5w-50 hopefully i will get something closer to a 40 weight oil at tempt.

on a side note notice that your coolant temp hovers around 190F and your oil is about 180-190F driving around like normal, but once you start making over 7psi of boost you really see your temps warm up, i have been watching my temps along with boost through my awron gauge and am curious to see how it all plays out knowing more.

[RagtagXMASTER]

I did forget to mention too that my oil change interval were very long, longer than what i should have let occur. the more i look at it the 30/40 are similar in viscosity, but may hold up better if changed earlier than 10/8k miles. I would think that the 9s are a little low, probably notice more power and better fuel economy too, but im guessing thats really hard to tell the difference.

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by NorthCountryGuy

I’ve been a fan of Mobil I synthetics for years on all my vehicles from V10 Super Duty trucks to a 30 year old Porsche. They’ve always done well. Good zinc content out of the jug.
On all my BMW’s I use 5W-40 Formula M.
45.84 for a boxed six pack or 7.60 a quart an Amazon. Light enough for winter use in the X’s, but high enough viscosity for year round use.

Formula M, is this factory fill for AMG vehicles?

[Whipple]

Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER

after getting some oil analysis back from blackstone on the oem oil, liqui moly liechlauf 5w-40, and molygen 5w-40, they all have a high failure rate at operating temperature in the s63tu, the notes on my oil reports are that the oil is thinning out at operating temp. the 30 weight acts more like a 20 weight at temp, and the 40 more like a 30 at temp

my next plan is to try out the redline 5w-50. its used in the DOHC mustangs. it has a really good sheer strength.

there are plenty of issues with the engines from a design aspect, but dont lose sleep over it.

I thought the Molygen did good ?? I truly believe no matter what oil you use in this engine it must be changed within 4K miles or less depending on how hard you push the car than less ,I heard good things about the Redline 5w50 but im scared to try it lol

[RagtagXMASTER]

Originally Posted by Whipple

I thought the Molygen did good ?? I truly believe no matter what oil you use in this engine it must be changed within 4K miles or less depending on how hard you push the car than less ,I heard good things about the Redline 5w50 but im scared to try it lol

I think if i did an oil change with 4k on the clock with the molygen it would result a little better. i dont think the molygen is the answer though. it has an additive package with high molybdenum. it polishes the engine internals for less friction and acts as a dry lubricant. in theory this would be bad for cylinder walls down the road as no oil would stick to cylinder walls. its more like an engine treatment than a good oil after i did more digging into it. Dont get me wrong you could most likely use it for a lot of oil changes but i would you is more like an engine treatment than an long time solution, but thats just me. My next test will be with the 5W-50 redline, i think that will be the best resulting oil . along with proper oil change intervals i think a strong 40 weight oil will work, or something that truly acts as a 40 weight will prevail. I do not think the OEM oil spec is made for this engine to last. its more for fuel economy, and when the engine fails it will need a rebuild. BMW is no longer interested in engines that last but engines that work for a time frame. ever since the S65/85 they no longer care about it. rebuild it when it fails. F1 mentality!

[NorthCountryGuy]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

Formula M, is this factory fill for AMG vehicles?

I believe it is as it is a 229.5 spec engine oil.

[thebmw]

Forgetting weights, what's wrong with Castrol A3/B4 and Pennzoil Euro Platinum?

[Whipple]

Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER

I think if i did an oil change with 4k on the clock with the molygen it would result a little better. i dont think the molygen is the answer though. it has an additive package with high molybdenum. it polishes the engine internals for less friction and acts as a dry lubricant. in theory this would be bad for cylinder walls down the road as no oil would stick to cylinder walls. its more like an engine treatment than a good oil after i did more digging into it. Dont get me wrong you could most likely use it for a lot of oil changes but i would you is more like an engine treatment than an long time solution, but thats just me. My next test will be with the 5W-50 redline, i think that will be the best resulting oil . along with proper oil change intervals i think a strong 40 weight oil will work, or something that truly acts as a 40 weight will prevail. I do not think the OEM oil spec is made for this engine to last. its more for fuel economy, and when the engine fails it will need a rebuild. BMW is no longer interested in engines that last but engines that work for a time frame. ever since the S65/85 they no longer care about it. rebuild it when it fails. F1 mentality!

I think you and I are on the same page and I agree with every word you said, couple weeks ago I asked troyup a question about engine oil this is what he had to say,

troyjeup mentioned you in a comment: @antimatter01 I would not use 0w40. It is too thin. The wear on the s63tu is at temperature. Not on cold start. And 0w30 or 0w40 is proven not to hold up to the bearing pressures these engines fail bearings at 60k miles every day of the week. Every build I do runs 5w50 redline year round. It is thin enough for cold starts and see strong as hell during everything else. Try it and you will see immediately improvement

People can say what they want but this guy lives it, he has plenty of his rebuilt engines over 100k miles,im not saying he knows more than a BMW M engineer but an M engineer might agree with him about this oil , Im sure a BMW engineer can tell corporate until there blue in the face this oil is better and they will turn the other cheek ah its good enough it better for emissions !!

Even with your oil report you can see this is true ,im going to order that 5W50 right now ,Im going to put a cup of each in the freezer and see witch one flows better to see how thick they come out sometimes a better quality thicker oil flows better than a cheap thin oil, project farm lol,this is making all sense now I changed oil before when it was pretty hot mostly 5w30 it was in my Denali,and its actually as thin a water when it comes out

I forgot to mention I spoke to Moe at DME tuning and he said either Motul Sport 5w40 or Redline 5W50 so Redline is legit

[RagtagXMASTER]

Originally Posted by Whipple

I think you and I are on the same page and I agree with every word you said, couple weeks ago I asked troyup a question about engine oil this is what he had to say,

troyjeup mentioned you in a comment: @antimatter01 I would not use 0w40. It is too thin. The wear on the s63tu is at temperature. Not on cold start. And 0w30 or 0w40 is proven not to hold up to the bearing pressures these engines fail bearings at 60k miles every day of the week. Every build I do runs 5w50 redline year round. It is thin enough for cold starts and see strong as hell during everything else. Try it and you will see immediately improvement

People can say what they want but this guy lives it, he has plenty of his rebuilt engines over 100k miles,im not saying he knows more than a BMW M engineer but an M engineer might agree with him about this oil , Im sure a BMW engineer can tell corporate until there blue in the face this oil is better and they will turn the other cheek ah its good enough it better for emissions !!

Even with your oil report you can see this is true ,im going to order that 5W50 right now ,Im going to put a cup of each in the freezer and see witch one flows better to see how thick they come out sometimes a better quality thicker oil flows better than a cheap thin oil, project farm lol,this is making all sense now I changed oil before when it was pretty hot mostly 5w30 it was in my Denali,and its actually as thin a water when it comes out

I forgot to mention I spoke to Moe at DME tuning and he said either Motul Sport 5w40 or Redline 5W50 so Redline is legit

Indeed, i get a lot of knowledge from those guys too. it makes complete sense too. this platform will have the same growing pains as the s65/85 and its better to spread the information than not share it.

[Flying Ace]

But it's not the same issues as the S65/85. The S65/85 issue was the cold flow properties.

[RagtagXMASTER]

you are right. But under boost. The pressure on the con rod to the crank just pushes the oil oil of the area