Onboard maintenance items

[MichaelInChicago]

I know this has been covered quite a bit, but I am trying to understand the onboard service schedule list. According to my manual, it says the onboard computer uses its own algorithms to figure out what service items have to be done and when.

So, are the service items and their corresponding dates/mileage requirements all that have to be followed?

For instance, my car is telling me that I have an oil/filter change due in 1,300 miles and that my brake fluid flush is due in December. It does not list air filters, spark plugs, fuels filter, etc. as things that have to be done (I did my whole brake system a few months ago). I currently have about 59K miles on the car.

Should I simply follow what the onboard computer is telling me?

Thanks

[Opie55]

No. Not even sure I understand what you are asking - for example, are you asking if you never have to change air filters because your car does not tell you to? You can't seriously be asking that.

As for all the stuff that is listed, don't believe this algorithm crap. Assuming it was reset when the work was last done, then you can follow it for brake fluid flushes because it just counts down 2 years. As for oil, it counts a year or miles. Depends on how much you drive. As I told you before, I do a year or 7,500 miles. As for brake pads, ignore the system altogether - it is worthless.

[MichaelInChicago]

Actually, I am seriously asking this question. If I was not serious, I would not ask.

It appears from the manual that as maintenance items need to be replaced, the system will let me know. So, I was simply asking if I should follow the items and dates/mileage reminders or will the system not list certain items that should be replaced.

I think that is a reasonable question.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by MichaelInChicago

...my car is telling me that I have an oil/filter change due in 1,300 miles and that my brake fluid flush is due in December.

It does not list air filters, spark plugs, fuels filter, etc. as things that have to be done (I did my whole brake system a few months ago). I currently have about 59K miles on the car.

Should I simply follow what the onboard computer is telling me?

Thanks

When you go to the VEHICLE INFO/SERVICE INFO screen in iDrive...note that you have a list of multiple INSPECTIONS. Air filters, spark plugs, fuel filters etc...fall into one of the other CBS categories. So just because the brake pads, brake fluid, or oil service is due doesn’t mean that the inspection that includes the filters you mentioned are due. It all depends on when the last time they were changed and if the system was reset to begin a new calculated countdown.

And I won’t even consider jumping in the quagmire as to what you should follow. Your car, your money...do what feels comfortable for you. If you want to follow the CBS...go ahead. If you feel the CBS interval is too long...then do it when it’s comfortable for you. If you think the CBS interval isn’t long enough...then Gawd have mercy on your soul.

Watch the BMW genius video below for recall on how to access vehicle info to see the various inspections:

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by MichaelInChicago

Actually, I am seriously asking this question. If I was not serious, I would not ask.

It appears from the manual that as maintenance items need to be replaced, the system will let me know. So, I was simply asking if I should follow the items and dates/mileage reminders or will the system not list certain items that should be replaced.

I think that is a reasonable question.

Ok, then the manual is misleading. It lists those certain items, but no more. It does not later have a menu item about plugs, filters etc. I suppose BMW had a reason to track what it tracks. But beyond being a useful reminder for when brake fluid is due, it's pretty useless. But a BMW needs basically everything every other car needs in terms of filters, plugs, etc. I think the global underlying assumption BMW goes by is that hardly anybody works on their own BMW and the service dept will tell you what you need (whether you do or not). Better to have a bit of control/knowledge yourself even if you don't do it yourself. Refer back to the long list I gave you a month or so ago. I just replaced my air filters yesterday. I should also note that you cannot rely on looking at only one filter to determine the condition of its twin. My passenger side was just normally dirty. My driver's side had half a hay bale in it.

[ezmaass]

So, I'm the guy who just brings the car to BMW every year for its service and does what's on the "menu" to be done. It's not the most cost effective way to maintain a car, but I'm not after cost effectiveness but rather convenience. BMW will definitely replace stuff that doesn't need it (just happens to be "due" on a schedule), but I've found that they rarely miss something that DOES need it - that experience may (likely will) differ from dealer to dealer.

After 20 years of maintaining BMWs this way, I've never had one break down - and that includes one that I drove to 125k miles and another to 89k miles. My reasoning here is that this is my daily driver - I need it to just work. I know that my particular dealer is likely to be over-sensitive to stuff versus under-react, so I can always decide to push back on a suggestion that seems unnecessary. But as far as scheduled maintenance, I've always just gone with it, and it's served me well. Again, not the most cost conscious, but if replacing X or Y before it's absolutely necessary is the worst case scenario, well so be it. I just want the car to be in good condition and reliable.

In many cases, though, I'll also ask them to look at stuff that may not be on the schedule or even something that's typically up for replacement until it breaks. Waiting for something to break, to me, isn't maintenance - it's reacting. So, things like control arms and bushings, for instance, I'm happy to replace as they begin to show even a little play. Replacing a battery before it fails is much more convenient. Getting drain plugs cleaned before they cause water to back up. Even if following the prescribed schedule, many dealers may not look at this stuff unless you ask them to do so.

[JBF650]

I too subscribe to this methodology ezmaass outlines however sometimes sitiuations are presented to you to make a consumer call.
Recently my 650 went into my BMW dealer for its 35k kilometre service. it was last serviced about 12 months ago where engine oil was replaced. I asked them to do whatever it needed and to flush and renew the engine oil again. They advised it wasn't necessary to flush engine oil however if id like it done they would do it. My thought was why muck around with things like oils.... we all know these cars don't tolerate low oil levels and poor maintenance items. For the low cost of new engine oil I didn't care.... its peace of mind knowing that it will go another 12 months and 10-15k klms no problems re engine oil. They did say pads and discs were perfectly ok with 60% front and 50% rear wear and would go for another year on my car. This was despite the car saying the discs and pads needed replacing..... I appreciate the dealer telling me this and while I was prepared to spend the $1500.00 they quoted to do the brakes they were adamant it was perfectly acceptable and safe to go another 12 months. They flushed the brake fluid and did a point to point check and no issues found.
The morale of the story we are all saying is find yourself a trusted and reputable dealer and or mechanic who can determine what should be done for reasonable maintenance necessity and be fair and objective to what the cars computer is saying 'needs' to be done.

safe and happy motoring fellow 6ers

[NorthCountryGuy]

For those who have their car(s) get routine maintenance done by another (BMW or Indy), the CBS system is good to act as reminder to get service barring having symptoms with a particular system. For those who do their own maintenance work, the CBS is just something to occasionally reset.

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by NorthCountryGuy

For those who have their car(s) get routine maintenance done by another (BMW or Indy), the CBS system is good to act as reminder to get service barring having symptoms with a particular system. For those who do their own maintenance work, the CBS is just something to occasionally reset.

I think there is an important middle ground between those who do their own work and those who do not. That is the educated/savvy person who let's others perform the work. For example, it is becoming a theme - including in a post in this thread - that the CBS system says brake pads are nearly due when they are not even close to being due. I have a feeling that if I had all the money spent on unnecessary brake jobs I could be living in a much larger house. There is just no reason for it because everybody who participates in this forum is a "car guy" (or woman) to some extent. But that does not mean you have to do your own brake job. There are several things you can do: (1) You can look yourself and decide if the pads need to be replaced, (2) you could go to your mechanic and say "my system says my brakes are nearly due, but I know that the system is pretty much useless, but take a look", or even better, (3) "the system is useless so measure my pad thickness and tell what they are." You are in control if what you ask for is the thickness and then make your own decision. Knowledge is power.

[Qsilver7]

In regards to the brake service...if you get a brake service message that gives a time or mileage...and you check the pads and you have lots of life left...I wouldn’t worry about it until you get the warning that the brake pad sensor has worn through.

Yes, if you would prefer to change them before that and reuse the brake pad sensor...the current set-up gives you a chance to check the pad’s thickness and determine if you want/need to change them or if you have extra time.

If your brake pads are surviving past the time and mileage interval...iDrive just sends a message with the mileage etc...but again, if the pads actually wear down to below the minimum level...the pad sensor sends a different warning that lets you know that it actually is time to replace them.

[MichaelInChicago]

Thanks everyone for your responses. Very helpful.

The onboard system does say that the brake flush has to be done in December. Should I also do a coolant replacement then or just top it off?

In regards to the brakes, I have found that the onboard system has been decent at letting me know when the pads have had to be replaced; a little early but enough time to give me good warning.

Thanks again.

[Opie55]

I would not do a coolant flush yet. Does it need to be topped off? Also, remember there are two coolant systems and two reservoirs to check. Your tech may or may not know that - depends on who it is. The main system for the engine has a level senor that will give you a notice if it gets too low. The other system that cools your intake air and your two computers does not have a level sensor. I recommend that you learn how to check these yourself. Some morning before you even start the car - with the car on a relatively level surface (does not need to be dead level or anything) - open your hood. The main coolant system is a black cap near the firewall on the driver's side. Remove it and look in there - a small flashlight helps. Can you see coolant? There is specified level range it should be at, but basically does it look to be roughly 5" below the cap? If so, you are good. That is not actually the reservoir, but just a long neck attached to the reservoir, so the difference between 5 and 6 inches is only a tablespoon or so. So if you can see coolant, you are good. The cap for the other system is dead center at the front of the engine. You need to remove the decorative engine cover - it just pulls up. That system has easily visible MAX/MIN lines in it. Use only the blue BMW coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water. That system gets neglected. I was sold a CPO car with it nearly dry.

[Qsilver7]

To add to what Opie55 suggested...see the pics below of the engine coolant filler neck (at back of engine bay (for the N63TU engines). You can create a measuring tool to determine if the level is up to snuff. You can use something around the house like an old ruler, straw, old chop sticks etc...just measure & mark for 6 inches & 4 inches so that you can determine if the coolant in the filler neck is within acceptable fill level.

Don’t get fooled (like some do) and confuse the charge air cooler reservoir (that’s up front & center) with the engine coolant system. The reservoir for the engine coolant (for the N63TU engines) is in the left fender (driver’s side for LHD)...and the filler neck at the back of the engine bay is how you check and fill/top-off the engine coolant.

And since the OP has a 2015 model year...if the coolant has never been changed...it may be time to do so. BMW used to recommend a 2-4 year coolant change...but now have gone the way of the “lifetime” fill. But you can also simply pick up a coolant (anti-freeze) test strips to check the PH balance of the coolant. If the acidity level of the coolant is off...then it can cause corrosion in the coolant system...which would mean that its time to do a flush.

[MichaelInChicago]

Ok. I will check my coolant and hope all is good. Thanks for the very helpful tips. Much appreciated.

One more maintenance question. Do I have to change the fuel filter and does my car even have one ?

I have looked on many auto parts sites and nobody seems to have one for my car.

Thanks

[Opie55]

I have not looked into it in detail yet because my car is only at 38,000 miles, but yes, it has one, all cars do, and I think it is part of the sending unit it in the gas tank. Expensive. You have 60k miles? I'd not worry right now.

[Opie55]

I just did some poking around and it's not clear - it may be part of the fuel pump, and not replaced until the pump is. But no clear answer in 10 minutes of looking. On the F12 anyway there was some option code for an external fuel filter, but beyond that NewTIS refers to the instructions for fuel pump replacement. Now I'm curious, but it does not appear to be a regular maintenance item on these cars.

[MichaelInChicago]

Thanks again Opie.

So, if I am reading all of the posts right, are these the more routine maintenance items that should be replaced/flushed on a more 'regular' basis:

- Oil and filter change
- Air filter replacement
- Cabin filter replacement
- Spark plug replacement
- Brake fluid flush
- Coolant flush (if necessary)

If I am missing something, please let me know.

Thanks

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by MichaelInChicago

Thanks again Opie.

So, if I am reading all of the posts right, are these the more routine maintenance items that should be replaced/flushed on a more 'regular' basis:

- Oil and filter change
- Air filter replacement
- Cabin filter replacement
- Spark plug replacement
- Brake fluid flush
- Coolant flush (if necessary)

If I am missing something, please let me know.

Thanks

That about covers it for regular items. Also wiper blades. Beyond that just little things like I occasionally clean out the gunk that builds up around the rear view camera, or remove leaves and gunk that accumulates below the windshield and below the brake booster, etc.

[MichaelInChicago]

I changed my wipers a few weeks ago and what a difference it made. I also regularly check that here are no leaves, dirt or gunk within the engine compartment, around the doors and the door jams, as well as the channel that runs along the inside of the trunk.

I also have a question before I order the coolant test strips online. I have a pool and I am wondering if I can use the water test strips, which also show ph levels, to test the ph of the coolant?

Thanks

[Qsilver7]

Regarding the coolant ph test strips, I have test strips for my pool that indicates ph levels. Could I use these to test the coolant ph in my car before I order ones on line?

The question I would have is...are the PH test strips for you pool compatible in measuring/determining the PH balance of you anti-freeze/coolant?

If your pool’s test strips are specific to what those levels should be for determining safe levels for humans to be in the water where chlorine is being used to destroy bacteria...it may not be the same for preventing corrosion in your car’s cooling system.

Do a search (probably somewhere on the TIS website) as to what the ph balance is supposed to be for your anti-freeze which contains (I believe) nitrates and amino acids. And does that correlate with ph balances for chlorine in a swimming pool.

The test strips may be specific (and not general) for each application which may require buying ph test strips for each application which may be different.

[MichaelInChicago]

Good advice. I always thought ph was independent of the liquid being tested, and anyways, I just looked and my test strips just colour code the ph without giving a number, so these would be useless for this application.

Would you know what ph the coolant should be at (I have read that it should be between 9.5 and 10.5)?

Thanks again.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by MichaelInChicago

Would you know what ph the coolant should be at (I have read that it should be between 9.5 and 10.5)?

Thanks again.

Those numbers sound familiar in regards to coolant ph levels. Which is why I wasn’t sure if your pool strips could determine what that level would be. And your description of them being “color coded” nails that assumption.