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      11-29-2017, 10:49 PM   #1
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M6 DIYs

hey everyone, I noticed that there is no actual DIY pictorials of some basic cosmetic and maintenance items we can perform. I found a bunch over at m5 part of bimmerpost, so I'm posting it here.

Please keep this thread going by verifying that it is the same procedures or what needs to be modified, or by posting your own DIY pics or video:

Front Grill Removal

It's a very similar procedure as that on the E9X M3:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531294





Rear Reflector Removal
http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860146



Oil Change]
http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834039
Buy this filter cap tool: https://www.getbmwparts.com/partloca...catalogid=4462
OR
https://asttool.com/search_results.p...type=searchbox



OEM, CP, M-Performance (Akra Evo) exhaust valve mod

http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthr...ust+flap+clamp



I highly recommend using the following:

1. Ramp/jack up the rear. There's no way you'll have enough room otherwise.

2. Use hose clamps, if you're using wire, use a thicker gauge wire. I used 14 gauge wire.

3. Note, on the akrapovic/MPE, the driver side solenoid orientation is different than the passenger side. Driver side flapper opens longitudinally, and passenger side opens latitudinally.




Disabling the Active Sound Design

For Coupes and Convertibles ONLY:
http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=983411




Center Console Removal (incl. ashtray, idrive controller)
https://www.6post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1081541

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Last edited by Flying Ace; 08-29-2018 at 01:27 PM..
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      12-02-2017, 09:58 PM   #2
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M6GC easy to disable. The module is located under a black plastic cover hanging under the package tray in the trunk, on the left side of the car. See first picture

Detach, then unplug harness, then hang module back from mounting location.
Second picture.
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      12-04-2017, 02:59 PM   #3
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Does anyone know what the intake charcoal filter is? I'm confused as to what M5 owners are doing removing it.

Ultimately, I want a DIY on air filter replacement, no matter how trivial the task is, as we all know, on BMW's no simple task is easy. Anyways, I have no idea what this charcoal filter is that they're removing and replacing. Is it related to the engine air filter?
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      12-04-2017, 07:35 PM   #4
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Yes there are two air filters in the air filter box. One is the usual kind, but BMW in their infinite wisdom thought another air restrictive filter needed to be put in.
I'll see if I can find a video or link to the post.

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      12-04-2017, 10:37 PM   #5
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Awesome info!
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      12-07-2017, 03:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsuhandy View Post
Yes there are two air filters in the air filter box. One is the usual kind, but BMW in their infinite wisdom thought another air restrictive filter needed to be put in.
I'll see if I can find a video or link to the post.

Just an FYI for my fellow Europeans, our cars don’t come with the charcoal filter installed.
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      12-09-2017, 12:53 PM   #7
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DIY - BlackVue 2ch Dash Cam Install on M6 coupe

For those interested in installing a dash cam I have put together some pics and instructions. I used a BlackVue 2 channel wifi setup (DR650S-2CH). Includes front and rear cameras along with wifi capabilities. I also installed Power Magic Pro. It installs inline with the power cable and can be programmed to stay on after you turn engine off without draining your battery dead (will record for 6+ hours and will shut off automatically).

I have mine wired so that as soon as you touch the door handles of the car the cameras start to record. Cameras will continue recording for about 20 to 30 minutes after you turn off and lock car - with Power Magic Pro turned off.

I located the front camera right behind the rear view mirror so it would not obstruct my view and gives perfect unobstructed view of front of vehicle. Mount the front camera first. Then route both the power and rear camera cables by tucking in under the housing and moldings as pictured. Use the plastic pick and wedge tool included. Continue up and over the top drivers side windshield molding. Route both cables down the pillar. Continue to route cables down to the interior door trim where the pillar meets door molding.

Route the power cable down the door trim and route it back around and under the dash. Leave cable there for now. Continue routing rear camera cable down the door trim to where it meets the door sill. Get the Power Magic Pro out and plug cigarette lighter end into BlackVue cigarette lighter end. Leave on floor mat for now.

You'll need to splice an extra 14 feet length of wire to the power and accessories wires coming out of the Power Magic Pro. I used 16 ga multi strand. Solder and heat shrink.

Take power wire, accessory wire and the rear camera cable and continue to tuck cables under door sill molding (kind of tight for 3 wires but will fit). Route cables to end of sill at rear seat. Pull up rear seat by front of cushion just hard enough to detach from floor which then gives access to route the wires. Route rear camera cable under rear seat to upper rear pillar. Route power and accessory wires under seat to center. Remove the rear seat center panel. Pull wires up from bottom to the panel opening.

I could not find a passage of any kind to get the power and accessories cable to rear fuse panel located in the trunk. (M6 should have fold down rear seats). So I had to drill a hole directly under the ski door opening. Make sure not too high as you might hit the door seal. Route power and accessory wires thru hole. Route the power cable over to the battery. Cut excess wire off and splice/solder a terminal connector and locate on positive terminal of battery.

Route accessories wire to rear fuse panel on passenger side. I had to snake it under and thru so would not show. Cut wire to length and splice/solder a fuse tap as shown. I used fuse # 120 as it becomes "live" when display comes on and will delay shut down for 20 to 30 minutes.

Route rear camera cable up rear side of back pillar and up and over top of rear windshield molding. Install rear camera in center top of window. No worries - those with a rear sunshade will still clear camera and not obstruct the view (at least mine does). Finish routing cable to rear camera. Take access cable and fold and tuck along top of rear windshield molding to get out of the way.

Take ground wire from Power Magic Pro and secure under dash screw. Take Power Magic Pro and use included sticky tape secure to bottom of plastic dash panel near brake pedal. Take access wires and cable and tie wrap together and then tuck up under dash panel opening near the bake pedal. Power Magic Pro settings I used are: 1 off, 2 ON, 3 off, 4 off, 5 off. The only time you might want to turn on the PMP unit is if you want it to run for longer than 20 minutes. Otherwise I leave in off position.

Install will take about 3 - 5 hours.

There are other fuse boxes to tap into and different routes you can take. If you come up with a better route and tap in points - please post.

If you did like I did and left radio on - you might have to recharge your battery or drive around block a few times to get Power Magic Pro to work (voltage level dropped too low on PMP sensor).

Good luck!

//MMachine

(I also included a pdf file of everything)
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File Type: pdf M6 DIY Dashcam.pdf (3.95 MB, 1124 views)

Last edited by //MMachine; 12-10-2017 at 08:24 PM..
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      12-10-2017, 06:45 PM   #8
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Nice write-up
Thanks
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      12-14-2017, 03:04 AM   #9
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Anyone interested in an interior lighting Led swap.
I'm a bit lazy to post a DIY without interest so let me know if I should.

I've currently swapped all of my interior lights to LED as well as trunk light.
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      12-15-2017, 10:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malcoll View Post
M6GC easy to disable. The module is located under a black plastic cover hanging under the package tray in the trunk, on the left side of the car. See first picture

Detach, then unplug harness, then hang module back from mounting location.
Second picture.
Just did the ASD removal from the GC this morning.

To remove the ASD box, there's a round hole on the underside of the box. Inside the hole is a tab, push it to driver side and it untabs. Then, slide the other 2 mounting tabs out.

To remove the ASD connector, on the top of the gray connector plug is a push button tab. Push it, and then slide the black switch over. The ASD module will fall right out.

I found it easier to remove the box with the rear seat folded down and inserting my torso into the trunk from the back seat.

Doing the connector, it's easier to come out of the car and approach it from the trunk.

Instead of mounting the box back in, I decided to take it out the car for weight savings bc racecar.

Last edited by Flying Ace; 12-16-2017 at 05:18 PM..
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      01-11-2018, 02:09 PM   #11
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Front Painted Reflector Removal
The front reflector install is substantially more involved than the M5. If you have side cameras, it must be dismounted. I just performed this task yesterday. Here's the IND DIY, which at its base is what should be used in terms of how to remove the reflector and the method. But below are my additional tips and pics.

http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743210



Tips:
1. On the M6, you need to remove the top part of the fender liner. In total you need to remove at least 4 bolts. The two near where the camera is, and the two at the top of the wheel. Consider removing the 5th bolt at the bottom of the liner as well where the oil cooler is.

2. The reflector piece is integrated into the camera housing. The camera housing is held into the reflector by 2 screws. The screw is a Torx T8.







3. You must remove the camera before removing the reflector. You can either unscrew this housing and let the camera dangle, or unplug the camera and remove the housing when the reflector is removed. If you elect to unscrew the housing and let the camera dangle, you need a small precision tool set to unscrew the camera.





4. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the glue. I recommend focusing on the bottom part of the reflector first to get it going instead of the top near the camera. The heat gun can damage the camera, so keep it away from the lens and housing. Also apply heat to remove the glue residue as well.



5. Lastly, the screws are a PITA to also install back in. I recommend guiding the screws in the first time on the new IND reflectors which will free up and expand the plastic, this allow it to ease in when the part is on the car. Use the longest screwdrive handle you can fit in the cramped space to tighten the screw.

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      01-19-2018, 10:56 PM   #12
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DCT Knob Trim Removal

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1003330

Notes: I highly recommend actually using a thinnest trim removal pick you have or floss instead of a flathead. You're very likely to damage either the faceplate or the trim otherwise.

The circuit board is pegged into the tictactoe board with 2 black pegs. Gently push the pegs out. My pic shows one of the pegs still in the slot. There is no need to unplug the motherboard, but you may find it easier to unplug to undo the peg.

The CF trim is not a 100% flush fit due to the handmade nature of the part. To put it back together, the circuit board goes on first, and then the trim, and finally the tictactoe board. Slide the trim down and jam the tictactoe board into place. Hold it down firmly to screw it in. The trim may move a few milometers, keep trying the reassembly steps until it's firmly in place.

The 2nd pic shows how the circuit board has to seat in first for reassembly.
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      01-20-2018, 08:40 AM   #13
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Yes I am very interested I am about to tackle this change out to LED.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rsuhandy View Post
Anyone interested in an interior lighting Led swap.
I'm a bit lazy to post a DIY without interest so let me know if I should.

I've currently swapped all of my interior lights to LED as well as trunk light.
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      03-05-2018, 02:42 PM   #14
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bump, any more DIYs out there or any more tips or clarification on what's posted here already?
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      04-09-2018, 04:31 PM   #15
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What did removal of the active sound module make to the engine note in the car
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      06-02-2018, 12:04 PM   #16
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Swapping Start Button/ Removing Dash

So I went to try and replace my start/stop button and couldn't find a decent guide so I figured I'd do a write up on it.

I tried to use mounting tape and sticky putty to pull it out but no luck...



First step is to remove a little trim piece under your gauge cluster so that you don't break anything. I did not use a Trim removal tool at all, I simply grabbed it on both sides with my fingers and pulled kind of downward and to myself with a little bit of force and it popped right out. You'll notice there are 3 clips holding it in.




Once you have that piece removed, simply slide your finger under the wood grain/carbon fiber/aluminum trim and pull up.



There's a total of 4 clips holding this piece in, the first being right at the edge, second just above the start/stop button, and the other two on the passenger side. This is very easy to pull out



Once you have it pulled off, you need to unhook 3 connectors, 1 for the start/stop button and 2 more between the A/C vents. (didn't show this in pictures)

Once you have the assembly off, there are 3 little screws holding in the start/stop button.



The third screw(not shown in image) also holds another piece in place but you should be able to wiggle off the buttons so that it slides out without taking the other piece off...

Once you have just the button assembly, pop off the aluminum looking ring that's held in by 3 clips and you should be able to pry off the button from there...

I know some of the images are out of order but I swapped it out and then decided to do a write up after so I had to go through the process again...

Last edited by mberbic; 06-02-2018 at 12:20 PM..
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      06-02-2018, 09:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mberbic View Post
So I went to try and replace my start/stop button and couldn't find a decent guide so I figured I'd do a write up on it.

I tried to use mounting tape and sticky putty to pull it out but no luck...
what do you think about drilling a hole/slot in the old button and using a hook or flat-head to pop it out? what is the switch behind it like?

thanks!

Matt
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      06-03-2018, 02:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanescent03 View Post
what do you think about drilling a hole/slot in the old button and using a hook or flat-head to pop it out? what is the switch behind it like?

thanks!

Matt
As long as you make it pretty shallow dead center you should be fine... It honestly took me 10 minutes total to disassemble and reassemble everything. I'd rather not risk it and have the factory button in case you wanna swap back
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      06-04-2018, 03:24 PM   #19
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Anyone have a diy for an intake install? Specifically for RK Autowerks / MSR style intakes.
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      06-04-2018, 06:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByronUT_M6 View Post
Anyone have a diy for an intake install? Specifically for RK Autowerks / MSR style intakes.
kong24680 has performed an intake install. He told me it requires removing the front grills to insert the cone filters.
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      06-04-2018, 09:10 PM   #21
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What about brake pad, rotor install ,I know the rear pads you need a scan tool to bring back the caliper piston.or you can pull the ebrake actuator off and screw the actuator in , Also what aftermarket pads ,low dust pads are you guys using?
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      06-05-2018, 12:46 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByronUT_M6 View Post
Anyone have a diy for an intake install? Specifically for RK Autowerks / MSR style intakes.
Yup, I just installed the RK intakes on my m6. Was a pain in the ass.. PM me if you need some pointers
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