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      02-14-2024, 07:58 AM   #23
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Thanks WestfordChris for the write-up. I've already purchased some Adam's products but it's getting ahead for spring and so I've been reading and daydreaming until then. Really glad to see that the process looks to be the same, which makes sense, and that it worked out well. I'm pretty confident in my DIY skills but there's often that tinge of doubt with something brand new being done to something that isn't cheap!
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      02-14-2024, 11:00 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leasehackr View Post
Very good advice, TY!

I do foam wash initially and rinse without touching with mitt. 1-2 times if it needed, then do the bucket method.

Never used leaf blower to dry. I have couple of Meguiar water magnet towel.
https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/megui...ing-towel.html

Which Foam do you use for foam wash?
I use whatever shampoo I happen to use in my foam gun - my main daily is Meguiars Hyperwash for maintence washes and if the car is filthy, I will use CarPro Reset.
Depends. I don't read too much into -foam-........or my take on it.....
It doesn't clean the car any much more...but I do use the foamer after a pre-soak/HP rinse, followed by a foam - and then bucket rinse.
Pre Soak is High PH soak. It will degrade LSP but the + side is it melt's the ## off the panels. Gotta pick my battles as sometimes it's best to have a clean panel than -rubbing- it in....I look and approach paint differently on a OCD level...


Foam doesn't do much for me but helps carry any leftover debris during the -mitt wash-
With proper pre-wash though, the only real purpose of the mitt wash is to remove the bio-surface-film.
Foam, while it's really KEWEL to see....doesn't serve a purpose in most of my washing regimene
Same with Shampoo. Reset is my top tier shampoo. Slick as snot , cleans well, PH neutral. But it is -strong- and can degrade minorly the LSP so I use it only when I want that extra punch in a wash. Most of the time cars are clean enough that it doesn't warrant it.....they get washed -almost- weekly year round. Summertime...I've guilt of doing it 2-3X a week as it's summer and trying to look fresh 24/7.



However, since you are pre-rinsing with a PW before the mitt wash puts your 50% of the game as you are knocking off potentially any debris that can mar your paint. Dirty Mitts, dragging dirt, bad toweling, soft clear, etc....lotsa variables on micro-marring regardless.

With leaf blower, it takes just a few minutes to dry since the car is coated and water flys off. A single 16" square MF just to *Blot* any residual water. I always tend to prime the dry MF with a waterless wash mix before I even -Blot- the water panels

Last edited by chefwong; 02-14-2024 at 06:02 PM..
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      02-15-2024, 04:36 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestfordChris View Post
Sounds like you are on the right path.

You can get everything you need from Gyeon and Griots. Make sure you buy the right application and removal microfiber cloths.

I have used clay bars for 25 years on my cars, it is amazing how much contamination that "iron" remover gets out of the paint making the clay bar less needed. You can feel it, a freshly cleaned panel with a spritz of spray wax should be totally drag free when you lightly wipe your finger across it. If the paint is ultra smooth, the clay bar is probably not needed.

Hairline scratches will not be removed with the Griots perfecting cream and yellow pad, you need something that cuts a little more. The perfecting cream is perfect for removing hazing and spider webs.

I will echo what others have said about keeping the paint ultra-clean before applying the ceramic. I used the Gyeon Prep with their microfiber cloths before applying the Q2Mohs.
Thanks for the pointer on perfecting cream.

I'm leaning towards using Meguiar Ultimate polish and have used it in the past. It works very well and can take off all clear coat scratches.
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      02-20-2024, 07:53 PM   #26
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LeaseHackr - u didn't post how much you was going to put into the -prep- for the LSP when you posted the other thread where I suggested can coat. If you're going through the trouble of decon, polish , etc - what's stopping you from a *high solids coating*. Do note, you need to apply this indoors and ideally if your situation allows, to keep it inside for 5 days or so for best -curing-.
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      02-21-2024, 04:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
LeaseHackr - u didn't post how much you was going to put into the -prep- for the LSP when you posted the other thread where I suggested can coat. If you're going through the trouble of decon, polish , etc - what's stopping you from a *high solids coating*. Do note, you need to apply this indoors and ideally if your situation allows, to keep it inside for 5 days or so for best -curing-.
Yes, I looked into the high-end coating, which needs more time to apply, I guess. Someone suggested Gyeon CanCoat, which is easy to apply and has more dwell time.

Since this is the leased car and the first carbon black, I want to remove any minor swirls and marks before coating.

I asked the dealers not to remove the white film from the hood. They said it doesn't come with it anymore and the hood has swirl marks.

What do you think of Carpros Essence? is it better than Meguair UP?
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      02-21-2024, 06:57 AM   #28
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CP Essence as a final finishing, is great. Really brings out the final gloss in the paint before coating.
In your other thread, I was the one that suggested CanCoat over the others you had mentioned.

However, in this thread, after reading all the -steps you plan on prep-, you're like 90% there anyhow on getting the paint really dialed in before the LSP- or at least it appears you plan to put best effort in, so my recent response was instead of CanCoat, why not consider a high solids coating. The cost is the same as CanCoat but it's a longer laster coating. Where CanCoat wins is it's
super ease of application
, and should easily last 10-12 months.

Prep is Key and also the -application and curing- requirement is all indoors and 2 days minimum but I'd shoot for 5-6 days inside if you can get away with not needing to drive the car for that will get you the best cure.


After the LSP is done, like my other reply, if your wash process SUX, if you dry process SUX, you can put micro-marring back even on the 1st wash. Carbon Black show -every defect- IMO. it's just one notch below Jet Black in showing everything....

Last edited by chefwong; 02-21-2024 at 11:11 AM..
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      02-21-2024, 01:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
CP Essence as a final finishing, is great. Really brings out the final gloss in the paint before coating.
In your other thread, I was the one that suggested CanCoat over the others you had mentioned.

However, in this thread, after reading all the -steps you plan on prep-, you're like 90% there anyhow on getting the paint really dialed in before the LSP- or at least it appears you plan to put best effort in, so my recent response was instead of CanCoat, why not consider a high solids coating. The cost is the same as CanCoat but it's a longer laster coating. Where CanCoat wins is it's
super ease of application
, and should easily last 10-12 months.

Prep is Key and also the -application and curing- requirement is all indoors and 2 days minimum but I'd shoot for 5-6 days inside if you can get away with not needing to drive the car for that will get you the best cure.


After the LSP is done, like my other reply, if your wash process SUX, if you dry process SUX, you can put micro-marring back even on the 1st wash. Carbon Black show -every defect- IMO. it's just one notch below Jet Black in showing everything....
Good advice, TY

Which one you suggest to go for instead of CanCoat? Haven't bought any stuff yet

also, would be happy to review my wash'/dry process. if you can forward the link to guide.

Yes will be doing everything indoor when the weather is 60+. still cold 50's in NW.
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      02-21-2024, 01:50 PM   #30
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CarPro UK 3.0 - same if not less price than can coat.

I like these for applicators

https://www.amazon.com/Applicator-Mi...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Good luck
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      02-21-2024, 02:05 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
CarPro UK 3.0 - same if not less price than can coat.

I like these for applicators

https://www.amazon.com/Applicator-Mi...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Good luck
+1 Carpros UK3.0 saw recommendations for this coating.

Thanks for the link for applicators.
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      02-27-2024, 01:32 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
CarPro UK 3.0 - same if not less price than can coat.

I like these for applicators

https://www.amazon.com/Applicator-Mi...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Good luck
Took your advice. Going full speed with CarPros. Can you review the below list?

steps in the order -

1. Foam
Which one?

CARPRO Lift
or
HydrO2 Foam

2. IronX

3. Wash
Which one?

CARPRO IronX Snow Soap 1 Liter
or
CARPRO Reset Shampoo

4. Polish
Which one?

CarPro UltraCut or Essence or Fixer required for removing swirl marks and light scratches?

5. Coating
Is Eraser still required when using CarPro Ultracut or Essence prior to coating?

Which one?
New DQUARTZ Go or CQ.UK 3.0

Can this coating be apply to windshield, glass, lights, vinyl?

6. Glass
Clarify

7. Interior
CARPRO Inside and InnerQD or EliXir ?

8. Tire
Which one?
ReTyre or DarkSide
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