09-10-2021, 11:50 PM | #2 |
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Depends on the model of the wheel.
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09-11-2021, 04:49 AM | #4 |
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09-11-2021, 10:23 AM | #6 |
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Most are cast alloy and some are forged (usually an M wheel but not all of them). If you can see the back side of the wheel…it is easy to determine if cast or forged.
Cast alloy wheels are poured into a mold…so any info (brand & wheel specs etc.) will be already in the “mold” thus appear as raised lettering on the rear side of the wheel or around the hub (especially if the wheel has a larger hub cap). Forged wheels are cut from a solid piece of alloy…thus the rear side of the wheels (like the spokes) are solid with no indentations or pockets etc…and any wheel info will be engraved into the alloy instead of appearing as raised lettering. You can also check one of the online part databases like realoem.com or bimmercat.com. Sometimes the info for the wheel is listed as cast alloy or forged (unfortunately not all the time). EDIT: Just did a google search for a BMW 703M wheel…and based on the pics found of the back side of the wheel…they are a cast wheel. The info is “raised letter” and the back side of the spokes are NOT smooth but have indentations etc that are reminiscent of a poured (aka “cast”) alloy wheel:
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09-11-2021, 11:07 AM | #7 |
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Here’s an example of a forged BMW wheel…they are my old (staggered) Style 37 MPars (from my e38 7 series). You can see that the back side of the wheel has info that is engraved into the solid alloy. The spokes are smooth w/no indentation etc because the wheel is cut from a solid piece of alloy instead of being poured into a cast mold:
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09-12-2021, 12:05 AM | #10 | |
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Have a look here: https://www.originalwheels.com/ p.s. Did not see you might be from down under
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09-12-2021, 05:55 AM | #11 | |
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If you go forged replicas (as I have), I would suggest going non-run-flat tyres as the tough sidewall can tend to be what causes the issue with replica wheels although my tyre guy tells me he has seen plenty of OEM wheels fracture with RFT's... |
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