Blackstone Read + Advice Moving Forward

[hirkaismyname]

So the clock just turned 23K on Matty and decided to get the stones checked.

Attached is the report -- can anyone make sense of the report? And advise whether she's in good health or not. Is 4 tin levels for the mileage clock sound about right?

Thanks for the help. And what would you pay for her, she's a 1/1 CP.

H

[RagtagXMASTER]

your oil report is pretty good, go with a heavier oil like the 5w-50. your wear should get better with the heavier oil.

The tin and copper is most likely bearing material, but at the low level of 4 parts per million its ok in a report.

you want more molybdenum and zinc in your oil too.

go with the liqui moly 5w-50 or redline 5w-50. i say this only because your 40 weight oil is getting too thin and acting like a 30 weight oil under normal operating conditions and probably being pressed out of spaces between your rod bearings. I had the same sort of reports on some 5w-30 and 5w-40 weight oils and ever since i went redline 5w-50 my oil viscosity has been right on point and my wear numbers have been trending down. I have 84k miles on my m6, and its running very well.

Other than that car looks great

[TinCanSailor]

+1 on what RagtagXMASTER said. Florida driving is hot enough already then add to that the stop and go, mostly stop, nature of our traffic patterns and you are well on your way to excessive wear. These cars generate a ton of heat and our oil coolers are most effective when the car is moving as they have no fans so you want to keep that oil from shearing for as long as possible.

I have been through one engine and the builder recommended a 50 weight oil for mine. I will probably start using redline or motul on my next change.

[hirkaismyname]

Great, thanks for the input; any thought on whether turbo blankets would be a good idea for heat wear if that is an add'l contributing factor to my oil report but for using 50 weight oil?

[danielgmanm6]

Originally Posted by RagtagXMASTER

your oil report is pretty good, go with a heavier oil like the 5w-50. your wear should get better with the heavier oil.

The tin and copper is most likely bearing material, but at the low level of 4 parts per million its ok in a report.

you want more molybdenum and zinc in your oil too.

go with the liqui moly 5w-50 or redline 5w-50. i say this only because your 40 weight oil is getting too thin and acting like a 30 weight oil under normal operating conditions and probably being pressed out of spaces between your rod bearings. I had the same sort of reports on some 5w-30 and 5w-40 weight oils and ever since i went redline 5w-50 my oil viscosity has been right on point and my wear numbers have been trending down. I have 84k miles on my m6, and its running very well.

Other than that car looks great

I've seen multiple posts and threads about this. From what I remember dont you change your oil from 3-5k intervals? And with those intervals aren't the values always going to be lower? And what about cold starts before oil gets up to operating temperature? It would seem like 5w 40 would be the best of both worlds.

[RagtagXMASTER]

I do change my oil in 3-5k intervals. I actually record all my oil changes in a google doc, I will actually share them here.

When I Ran the 5w-40 its not so much about the wear at cold start that I was worried about its more about the wear at operating temperature. If the oil is too thin and is pressed out of the critical areas in the engine you will have very bad wear. So far the only oil that has actually performed like its actual weighted oil was the 5w-50.

Also disregard some of the color coding I did in the additives area. i need to actually redo that, I messed up my limits.

the jist of it though is you want less wear metals, and if you can get a lot of zinc and moly that's good. calcium is the only dangerous thing you should look out for. its a great detergent however can lead to pre ignition when too much fuel is emulsified in the oil

[danielgmanm6]

Appreciate the info. I would just caution on recommending oil to others that's not listed by BMW engineers. Not sure what your skill level is or background, but ppl could do serious damage to our machines. I'm currently using 0w 30 (changes at the dealer) but I think I'll give 5w 40 a try, 5w 50 is just way too thick imo. If the oil is as good as you claim you should increase the duration. Of course values will go up, but see how it holds up. Any synthetic will last 3-5k lol

[KTBD]

Interesting data in this thread. Another issue to consider regarding oil weights is what are the ambient temperature extremes that a car/engine/motor will experience from one day to the next and season of the year. Any motor oil, including synthetics, are a chemical mixture of numerous compounds. Some of those compounds, such as complex paraffins, start to precipitate out of the mixture if, for example, a car sits out in the cold after being run at operating temperature. One overnight won't matter, but a season of it likely will. Result: Loss of "slipperyness" even if the remaining fluid were to pass its weight values. What happens to the paraffins? They coat metal surfaces (at levels below naked eye detection), can "gum up" parts that are supposed to slide past each other. Solutions: More frequent changes if the operating environment involves larger temperature extremes. Southern portions of CA, AZ, NM, TX, FL no such issue, other places, maybe.

[KTBD]

Just Curious, How long did you have to wait to catch that rainbow in your background?

[RagtagXMASTER]

Wear metals are a good indicator on how well the oil may be protecting your engine. However that viscosity rating is more important to me. I think that if the manufacturer specifies the weight to be 30 or 40 weight oil that it should operate like a 30 or 40 weight. When i changed my oil and sent samples in the 30/40 weighted samples performed like a 20/30 weight oil respectively.

Also never trust your dealer. They run a business. They want you to have a car that requires service. Its how they make money. And realistically i would say the engineering team has to make decisions to save money and improve fuel economy and meet emissions. One one of doing that is by lowering the oil weight. Less rotational inertia to overcome. Less emissions, better fuel economy. But with that you can say the longevity is compromised. Who knows by how much but running the heavier oil is tilting the scale the opposite way.

Also changing the oil more frequently is actually in order for me to mitigate fuel dilution. The oil can probably last for longer intervals. But fuel will dilute and ignite upon combustion. The worse case event is the oil and fuel mixture combusts on the cylinder wall and sends part of your piston away. More frequent changes leads to less likely hood of that event.

[hirkaismyname]

Originally Posted by KTBD

Just Curious, How long did you have to wait to catch that rainbow in your background?

tsk tsk, around 12-2pm in orlando there's your regularly scheduled downpour/monsoon. Rainbows are thanos level inevitable here.