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      02-21-2021, 03:43 PM   #1
daniel650i
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Turbo coolant lines?

Had to refill my coolant last night and after further research, people said to check the coolant box that is located underneath the motor cover (the one you just pop off) i waited for my car to cool down and the "coolant low message" went away along with the limp mode. As I went to go back to check the other coolant box that's underneath the motor cover and found these corroded lines. I believe these are the turbo coolant lines that's connected to the front coolant box. Opened the front coolant box and the fluid was holding steady at the "max" amount. I'm curious if these corroded lines are something to worry about?
Facts about the case:
Only refilled coolant at the top driver side location
Only checked to see if the bottom coolant needed coolant and didn't.
No further error messages pop up after refilling coolant.
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      02-21-2021, 06:04 PM   #2
Opie55
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Just FYI, the system that uses that front little reservoir is totally separate, and has no level sensor or warning. It does not connect to the turbo lines. That front system does not get very hot, and cools the charge air coolers - those two silver boxes up front - and your two engine computers. As for the "corrosion", I'm not sure exactly what that is. It looks like a sealant of some type. I would clean that off, then monitor it to see if anything returns.
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      02-21-2021, 07:42 PM   #3
hugo_nz
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Those are the turbo coolant lines and yes they will need to be looked at. BMW dealers routinely replace those (mine were done a year ago). You will likely see coolant residue if you look behind the alternator as well.
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      02-21-2021, 09:34 PM   #4
DRock3d
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These three things and you can DIY it better than a dealer replacement (hose clamp kit was kinda shit. They won't cut through the old clamps so have good cutters for those.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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      02-21-2021, 10:21 PM   #5
daniel650i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
Just FYI, the system that uses that front little reservoir is totally separate, and has no level sensor or warning. It does not connect to the turbo lines. That front system does not get very hot, and cools the charge air coolers - those two silver boxes up front - and your two engine computers. As for the "corrosion", I'm not sure exactly what that is. It looks like a sealant of some type. I would clean that off, then monitor it to see if anything returns.
Thank you for your help
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      02-21-2021, 10:23 PM   #6
daniel650i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRock3d View Post
These three things and you can DIY it better than a dealer replacement (hose clamp kit was kinda shit. They won't cut through the old clamps so have good cutters for those.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1
Thank you
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      02-22-2021, 09:21 AM   #7
Qsilver7
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Here's some info about the N63TU's cooling system circuits (yes multiple circuits as mentioned above).

Hopefully the info below will be helpful with understanding the complexity of the 3 cooling circuits found on the N63TU engine (which is slightly different than the original N63 engine's systems).
  1. Engine Cooling Circuit
  2. Turbo Charging Circuit
  3. Charge Air & DME Cooling Circuit
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      02-23-2021, 11:51 PM   #8
550ihtown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel650i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
Just FYI, the system that uses that front little reservoir is totally separate, and has no level sensor or warning. It does not connect to the turbo lines. That front system does not get very hot, and cools the charge air coolers - those two silver boxes up front - and your two engine computers. As for the "corrosion", I'm not sure exactly what that is. It looks like a sealant of some type. I would clean that off, then monitor it to see if anything returns.
Thank you for your help
I had the exact same problem on my 550i which has a similar model. If you trace the rubber lines, they go up to a metallic part which also is replaced most of the times by dealerships - which can be an unnecessary additional cost. So you should ask them to just do the rubber ones and you will be ok. I drove my car for another 20k miles after that and I had no issues again. It was a $600 repair in comparison to $2500 for getting the whole metallic pipes changed along with.
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