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      07-17-2020, 01:16 AM   #1
MMMM6GC
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Dash cam + Radar install

Completed a brief write-up of my dash cam and radar install "on a budget". Tried to put as much info in one thread as possible for future DIY'ers

My car gets very little mileage (especially these days) so I wasn't looking for a crazy/expensive set-up; just something functional to provide features I need with a clean as possible install. Apologies in advance for mahoosive crap quality pictures and the condition of my car. Some detailing posts will be coming soon!

Here's what I bought:
> Uniden R3 - $280 (best reviews for performance/value)
> Generic Mirror mount + Wiretap - $46 (May go Blendmount route eventually but had nothing to lose as had some leftover gift card balance. It's c.$120 for the blendmount + $30 for hardwire kit, but this included the mirror tap)
> Nextbase 222 Dash cam - $30 (on sale, another one to possibly upgrade in the future but these had solid reviews and I couldn't justify $400+ on a dual Blackvue system or similar with my limited use)

Total cost $370 (was sub $300 for me using 4th of July sales / gift cards)
Total time approx 2hrs including research and mocking up the wiring

Tools:
> Trim removal plastic tools
> Torx screwdrivers
> Double sided mounting foam

Resources
As usual some great threads/info on here which I used. Honourable mentions to save you a search:
Mirror Tap, Wires, Cable routing, Headliner

Process
1 - Radar mount + mirror tap

> Remove the cover behind the mirror. Super easy, start at the side and gently pry with a trim tool



> Work your way back, away from the mirror. Almost no force needed, just gently pry. The cover splits into 2 halves, so repeat on the other side, gently prying up.

> Insert trim tool between the 2 halves and they'll come away easily. Again, no need to apply force or worry about broken trim.

> You can now see the connectors. The main connector can be pulled towards you as it has some slack. I didn't even need to unplug this as there's enough slack



> Grab the mirror tap. The "Green" wire (bottom row, middle) is the 12v, and the "Brown" with black stripe (top row, all the way right) is the ground.



> Insert mirror tap connectors into the harness, next to the original wires. Make sure to press them all the way in, so they're tight.



> At this point, plug the mirror tap into the detector and switch on your car to ensure it's powering up.

> With the cover off, I installed the mount to see how much of the wire tap cable I needed to hide, and to route it properly.

> Reverse the process. Push the harness connector back down into its hole. Re-attach the cover trim. Sit the cover trim halves flush against the windscreen glass, then slide them so they meet in the middle and click. Tuck any wiring before firmly clicking into place. Easy.



> FYI for a $46 mount inc. mirror tap, this seems pretty damn solid so far. It fits perfectly into the tiny mirror stalk gap. The detector is held solidly and doesn't move (will test this on an extended drive). Also importantly, it's VERY EASY to uninstall the detector from the mount, just unclip the power cord, press the mount release on top of the unit and slide it towards you, takes a couple seconds.


2 - Dash cam + wiring
> For the dash cam, I took advantage of the 12v socket under the glove box in the passenger footwell.

> Found a nice mounting spot for the camera which gave an unobstructed view forward. Camera came with multiple mounts, I used the sticky mount (not suction).

> The Nextbase has a great magnetic mount system so you can easily remove the camera. The USB plug fits in nice and flush into the mount itself. It does have a large plastic cover on the wiring, I used some double sided foam sticky pads and stuck this right at the top of the windscreen, by the headliner. The mount is behind the mirror so my view is clear, but I can easily operate the camera / remove if needed.



> From the above pic, you can see I ran the wiring up to the headliner where I stuck the plastic wire cover. Then I ran it towards the passenger side, in between the headliner and the plastic cover we removed for the Radar wire tap



> Next I tucked the wire into the headliner. Didn't need to unclip it or anything, there's plenty of room in there. I pushed the wire into the headliner with my fingers, then used a trim removal tool to push it in as far as I could. Keep running it across until you hit the A-pillar, then tuck it behind the top of the A-pillar trim. Used the same process as before, pushing in with a trim tool. Not much force needed at all.



> Tuck the wire down the A-pillar until you come to the top of the dash. There's a "velour" type seal which you can easily lift with your fingers to tuck the wire behind. Keep tucking the wire until you reach down to the passenger footwell.

> Here I removed the 4 torx screws of the plastic cover in the passenger footwell. Didn't even need to remove the cover, it just loosened enough so I could tuck all my spare cable under the cover



> Finally, plug into the 12v port under the glove box

Completed install:



Radar, Camera and Toll pass all mounted




Job done. Totally reversible, and clean install. Super easy to do. Shout if you have any questions. I'll be testing out over the next few weeks so will feedback if I get any issues.

Last edited by MMMM6GC; 07-17-2020 at 01:27 AM..
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      07-17-2020, 01:23 AM   #2
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      07-30-2020, 09:03 AM   #3
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Excellent write up! This is going to be my next project.
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      07-30-2020, 10:28 AM   #4
MMMM6GC
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Thanks! Brief update after driving couple hundred miles:

Nextbase Dash Cam:
This powers on as soon as you grip the comfort entry door handle. Seems to stay on for as long as the "follow me home" lights.
Video quality is excellent for a $30 camera. However, after few trips in sunny weather, noticed a lot of reflection from the dashboard / B&O speaker cover. Bought a Nextbase polarising filter (they're on clearance at Best Buy for $15). Unbelievable difference! You attach it to the camera lens, rotate it, and watch the reflections literally disappear.

Radar Detector/Mount/Wire Tap:
Mount has been really solid for a $40 unit. Barely vibrates, really strong hold.
Only thing I've had issue with is the mirror tap. On my second drive it stopped working as the tap connectors apparently weren't in firm enough (even though I made a point to properly insert them). Easy enough fix, just re-inserted them. Happened again recently when the car was sitting in the sun for a few hours. I'll keep an eye on this, and may replace with a different mirror tap.
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      07-30-2020, 04:11 PM   #5
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Thanks for sharing the write up


Here is my setup
Uniden R7
Blend Mount
Blend mount mirror tap
Escort M1 Dash cam

The Mirror tap feeds the dash cam,the dash cam feeds the detector via a passthrough ,this setup works really good and looks clean the dash cam has 1080p picture with wifi connection to phone or SD card ,the cam isn't the best compared to black due but its pretty damn good
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      07-30-2020, 08:50 PM   #6
MMMM6GC
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Super clean!

Interesting - you chose the R7 over the Max 360c? (As the M1 Cam and the 360c usually go hand in hand)

Also - how's the M1 mounted?
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      07-31-2020, 09:27 AM   #7
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I did the belndmount mount, mirror tap, and Escort 360c and M1, and love how clean it all looks.

The M1 comes with the little S shaped bracket that lets it connect to your blendmount or radar suction cup mount.
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      07-31-2020, 02:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMMM6GC View Post
Super clean!

Interesting - you chose the R7 over the Max 360c? (As the M1 Cam and the 360c usually go hand in hand)

Also - how's the M1 mounted?
Max 360c doesnít detect MRCD, itís low powered radar used in all speed cameras in NYC and there everywhere , and I did my homework watching Vortex Radar, R7 is a better detector for what I need with unbelievable range and for a cheaper price still one of the best bang for your buck detectors out there, Also I want to see the new detector by Radenso called theia coming out soon,itís supposed to be a game changer with the smart technology there going to use in it

The M1 is mounted using an existing bolt in the side of the blend mount , I had to get a slightly longer Allen bolt to justify the thickness of the M1 bracket , I believe blendmount sells the bolt kit also , I just got bolt from from home depot
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      08-02-2020, 12:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whipple View Post
Max 360c doesnít detect MRCD, itís low powered radar used in all speed cameras in NYC and there everywhere , and I did my homework watching Vortex Radar, R7 is a better detector for what I need with unbelievable range and for a cheaper price still one of the best bang for your buck detectors out there, Also I want to see the new detector by Radenso called theia coming out soon,itís supposed to be a game changer with the smart technology there going to use in it

The M1 is mounted using an existing bolt in the side of the blend mount , I had to get a slightly longer Allen bolt to justify the thickness of the M1 bracket , I believe blendmount sells the bolt kit also , I just got bolt from from home depot
Vortex knows his stuff. And I'm also pretty interested in Theia once it comes out. Probably going to buy an interim detector (I think the R3) soon.

I like how flush your detector is with the rearview vs OP's. Guess that means I'll be going blendmount.
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      08-02-2020, 05:27 PM   #10
Whipple
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxryanm. View Post
Vortex knows his stuff. And I'm also pretty interested in Theia once it comes out. Probably going to buy an interim detector (I think the R3) soon.

I like how flush your detector is with the rearview vs OP's. Guess that means I'll be going blendmount.
Yes Blendmount FTW ,I also have buttons on the top thats easily accessible ,the detector is spring loaded tight to the mirror so if you need to see the top you can just pull it down and it will snap back it place ,its also solid as a rock no bouncing around or movement ,there is room for tons of adjustment to your liking , here some more pics from the driver side
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      08-17-2020, 08:41 PM   #11
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Do any of the above power sources allow the dash cam to record when the car is off?

If not, does anyone know a good power source to tap into for that?
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      08-18-2020, 06:08 AM   #12
MMMM6GC
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The best manufacturer solution I've seen for recording while the car is off is the Blackvue power magic
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      08-19-2020, 01:23 AM   #13
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A dashcam with buffered recording mode and G sensor is a good choice.
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