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09-16-2021, 12:44 PM | #1 |
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Couple of mechanical issues - Coolant leak/driver window 'sticky'? Pictures
Hi all!
I'm new to the site and forums and have enjoyed the wealth of info I've come across so far. I'm having a few mechanical issues and thought I'd post here and see what thoughts or experiences others have had. 2014 BMW 650GC X drive, 79000 miles, I'm the 2nd owner (bought in Apr 2016). I've had the high pressure fuel pump issue and with repairs made and all spark plugs changed back at 45,000 miles. Here's my problem: 1. I got a random low coolant level error. I filled up the coolant reservoir at the driver's side rear part of the engine bay (not the tank in the midline up front). I didn't go get the BMW factory stuff, but used not ?Zerex? one that says specifically ok for BMWs. This was about 2 months ago. I didn't bother looking into why, but just figured hot summer, maybe things evaporated off... Anyways, I took my car to a local shop for oil change and get happened to lift the engine block lid and there front and center there looks to be some tubing that's?corroding? with blue looking coolant seeping around. (See pics) Have others seen this and else kind of 'damage' am I looking at (cost and overall to the health of my car). Second issue, the driver side window doesn't roll up fully... Frequently, when I hit the button, the window goes up 33% or 66% etc then stops and rolls back down (either back to 0 or maybe to 33%). %'s are guesstimates. After playing around with it or pushing/pulling the door a little (or open/close the door) it rolls up fine. Not a huge deal except when there's a thunderstorm or dust cloud and wanna get the window up quick! Again, anyone have any thoughts on what's wrong or has anyone gotten the repaired and what component did they replace? I do have the intermittent driver high beam and low beam failure issue that others have reported (notable when turning left, resolves temporarily with flashing the lights or turning on/off) and I'm really really not wanting to $$ on a new light unit. Any chance just changing the control unit /ballast would fix this? I have a 'platinum' extended warranty called 'the Mechanic' that calls itself exclusionary and seems pretty comprehensive, not sure what of the above would get covered... Hope to hear some ideas!... Last edited by Desidoc; 09-16-2021 at 01:11 PM.. |
09-16-2021, 01:36 PM | #2 |
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That definitely needs changing, odds on that is where some of your coolant is going. You can see staining below where it drips.
Last edited by DaveS86; 09-16-2021 at 01:45 PM.. |
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09-16-2021, 09:04 PM | #3 |
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You definitely need to replace those hoses, either replace the T splitter or if your warranty cover it, have them replace the hoses.
For the window, have you try to do the reset? Roll it all the way down and keep holding the switch down for another 15 sec. Most of the time it would fix the window issue. |
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09-16-2021, 09:38 PM | #4 |
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Those lines are turbo coolant lines. Very common issue. That can be fixed with factory parts or you can get tubing and things on Amazon. No effect on the health of your car. There is another line buried way down deep under there that also can leak, but fix those first. As for your window, your "pinch protection" is kicking in. The car has built in safety features just like a garage door to keep the window from closing on a little kid's body part. It's part of the motor. You will see lots of posts telling you to re-initiate windows. That will typically not help with this problem. Mine does it randomly, but not enough to care. It's easy to override. When it does it, just use the door switch and hold it up to raise the window within like 5 seconds. But if you have a warranty, go for it. The window motor is defective.
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09-16-2021, 09:46 PM | #5 |
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And just to add, nothing is corroding on those lines. That crusty stuff is just baked coolant. It gets real hot under there because the exhaust manifolds and turbos are on top - thus the reason they call this design a "Hot V" engine. With all those heat and cooling cycles those rubber hoses lose their elasticity and are no longer adequately compressed by the metal clamps. Thus you get some leakage when the cooling system is under pressure. I should also add that I have to add some coolant once a year - although the low-level warning does not trigger - and those hoses on my car still look perfect. Same on my X3. I have no idea where it goes.
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09-17-2021, 10:37 PM | #6 |
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Thanks to all for the replies
Thank you for the explanations.
I'll see what they say about warranty coverage for all of these issues. The coolant one is my more pressing concern so I guess warranty or not that will affect the long term operation. I'm hopeful the window motor would be covered, but not worth enough $ right now for me to fix it out of pocket. The headlight thing I'm HOPEFUL can be done with a control unit /ballast change and NOT a new light. Electronic are covered under my warranty, but NOT a new light. Few other questions I have- do you guys/gals have a solid on the rubber sealing on either side of the sunroof when it's tilted open? (Can be only seen from the outside). I'll try to take a pic and post. Also any recall or BMW lawsuits apply to the n63tu engine yet? I have been putting in a fair amount of oil (last time was 3 quarts about 5000 miles ago). If my car is going to the shop, is there any 'inspection' I could ask for to evaluate if there's an underlying developing issue (? leaky seals etc etc?) Thanks for everyone's input! |
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