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      07-26-2020, 04:07 PM   #1
x-tech7
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Enginge knocking

Hi guys,
So today I got the dreading drive train malfunciton. Car wouldn't shift properly. Pulled over and stop the car and restarted it. It cleared and was running normally. Then when I drove it under M1 setting , the engine was knocking and shortly after, got the high temp. warning light. Overheating i guess. Car is a 2017 M6 coupe with about 53500 miles. Bought it used. Just changed oil about 300 miles ago.
Any body have any ideas or a reputable shop in the Walnut Creek, Ca area?
I'm so bummed. Car was so fun.
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      07-26-2020, 04:31 PM   #2
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Check each spark plug for oil in cylinders... i got the drivetrain malfunction two weeks after buying my F10 M5.... needed new valve gaskets and cats as a result of the oil burn. Thankfully mine is under warranty, would have been $7k otherwise
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      07-27-2020, 12:52 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-tech7 View Post
Hi guys,
So today I got the dreading drive train malfunciton. Car wouldn't shift properly. Pulled over and stop the car and restarted it. It cleared and was running normally. Then when I drove it under M1 setting , the engine was knocking and shortly after, got the high temp. warning light. Overheating i guess. Car is a 2017 M6 coupe with about 53500 miles. Bought it used. Just changed oil about 300 miles ago.
Any body have any ideas or a reputable shop in the Walnut Creek, Ca area?
I'm so bummed. Car was so fun.
sounds like a spun bearing

open up the oil filter housing and check for any silver particles

Do you have a video of the knocking? I wouldn't bother turning it on to avoid any further damage
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      07-27-2020, 08:35 PM   #4
x-tech7
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yes I have a video of it, but how do I upload it from my iPhone? Also, is there a difference between a spun bearing vs. rod bearings?
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      07-31-2020, 02:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-tech7 View Post
Hi guys,
So today I got the dreading drive train malfunciton. Car wouldn't shift properly. Pulled over and stop the car and restarted it. It cleared and was running normally. Then when I drove it under M1 setting , the engine was knocking and shortly after, got the high temp. warning light. Overheating i guess. Car is a 2017 M6 coupe with about 53500 miles. Bought it used. Just changed oil about 300 miles ago.
Any body have any ideas or a reputable shop in the Walnut Creek, Ca area?
I'm so bummed. Car was so fun.

Very sorry to hear about the trouble. Sounds very similar to what just happened to me a few months ago, right down to the had just changed the oil recently with just a few hundred miles on the change. Below is a link from my experience.

I can't say enough about the folks at RKAutowerks all the way through the process. They are absolutely the best and the most cost permissive solution out there. I'd be happy to chat with you about my car and what was done but I highly encourage you to call Mike or Raza. There is no hard selling and they will make every effort to educate you.

Send me a DM with your number if ya want to chat.

https://www.6post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1729078
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      08-01-2020, 09:40 PM   #6
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Hey X-Tech7 adding this video here you shared with me, if ya want me to remove it I will gladly do so. This video is here to help others that might not know what a spun rod bearing might sound like. If you own an M5/M6 please seek the consult of an indy shop well qualified to work on M cars that can do a repair for your with good bearings before you end up needing a full engine rebuild. I can't take credit for the video but will say it sounds exactly like what I heard the night my engine ate itself while on a causal drive to take the love of my life our for her bday dinner with a group of good friends.

Sometime regular oil changes are not enough and in my case regular changes and rod bearing service by the dealer did nothing to stop the engine from dinning before my wife and I did.

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      08-02-2020, 12:37 AM   #7
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Thanks TinCanSailor! I couldn't figure out to post it to share to the community. Hope this will give some insights to our cars and problems that may arise.
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      08-02-2020, 12:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
Sometime regular oil changes are not enough and in my case regular changes and rod bearing service by the dealer did nothing to stop the engine from dinning before my wife and I did.
So you had gone in and replaced your bearings as a preventative measure and you still encountered a failure?
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      08-02-2020, 03:37 PM   #9
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So you had gone in and replaced your bearings as a preventative measure and you still encountered a failure?
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      08-02-2020, 04:29 PM   #10
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So you had gone in and replaced your bearings as a preventative measure and you still encountered a failure?
I think I seen a post awhile ago not sure it was him but his original rod bearings failed and BMW replaced the bearings for him under warranty ,Im sure they used the same crap that comes in there ,so he failed a second time but that engine seemed to be doomed from the beginning ,they make better aftermarket bearings for this engine I think King bearing is one of them
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      08-02-2020, 06:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whipple View Post
I think I seen a post awhile ago not sure it was him but his original rod bearings failed and BMW replaced the bearings for him under warranty ,Im sure they used the same crap that comes in there ,so he failed a second time but that engine seemed to be doomed from the beginning ,they make better aftermarket bearings for this engine I think King bearing is one of them
So this indicates the root cause of the bearing failures is likely not the bearings, and more so not the oil... Did they replace the oil pump when they did the bearings? If not, I wonder if there is an internal casting issue causing restricted oil flow to the bearings? Or machining issues with the journals. Or crank isn't straight... Same block, failed bearings twice??? That is ridiculously suspicious.
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      08-04-2020, 08:11 AM   #12
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So you had gone in and replaced your bearings as a preventative measure and you still encountered a failure?
Correct, my rod bearings had been done previously by the dealer under warranty and oil changes were done at an interval of approximately 7500 miles. I had just recently had an oil change performed before the bearings seized.
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      08-04-2020, 08:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
Correct, my rod bearings had been done previously by the dealer under warranty and oil changes were done at an interval of approximately 7500 miles. I had just recently had an oil change performed before the bearings seized.
Yep, this is clearly not a bearing material issue or an oil qty/type issue. I'm leaning towards machining defect on crank or rod journals. More likely rods, as if BMW knows about the root cause and it was *just* a crank problem that is actually a fairly easy fix vs replacing rods. (drop bottom of motor vs full engine pull).

Thoughts?
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      08-04-2020, 10:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanSailor View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LJohnson32 View Post
So you had gone in and replaced your bearings as a preventative measure and you still encountered a failure?
Correct, my rod bearings had been done previously by the dealer under warranty and oil changes were done at an interval of approximately 7500 miles. I had just recently had an oil change performed before the bearings seized.
For what its worth, and prob not much lol, my indy says 3k mile changes - TOPS. No clue if needed or not but im sticking to it
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      08-04-2020, 03:18 PM   #15
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For what its worth, and prob not much lol, my indy says 3k mile changes - TOPS. No clue if needed or not but im sticking to it
I will likely do more frequent changes. Crazy how our N63 powered 550 has done just fine with the service interval, well other than having to add oil due to consumption. Now that we are over 100k miles on the 550 and I have some Rennstands from Safe Jack I'll likely just start changing them both at 3k.
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