07-20-2020, 11:53 AM | #1 |
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Zymöl Carbon
I remember, back in my NSX days - 1994 - 2005 - I always had a guy named Martgol who had a detail shop called Martgol’s Magic detail my cars. He charged an exorbitant $350.00 for a complete detail and the cars always came back looking wet and shiny enough for a concours d’elegance appearance.
One day I asked him his secret and he turned me on to Zymöl Carnauba wax. I bought some right away, but never used it because I was too busy working to bother waxing my own cars. Fast forward to now when I was semi-retired until March, when the virus retired me, I now have the time and desire to detail my own cars. I had been using The Meguiar’s Ultimate products and was pretty happy with them until this last wax when I noticed that the Ultimate Quick wax left streaks and splotches in my carbon black paint. This annoyed me. So I did some research and found that I had forgotten all about Carnauba and about Zymöl. So I ordered a tub of the Carbon - specifically designed for ‘dark’ cars. I’m going to go ahead and assume that Zymöl Carbon was specifically designed For Carbon Black cars. It arrives Thursday. I’ll let you know how it goes. My paint is smooth as a newborn’s bottom, but I am still considering a clay job, or perhaps a vinegar wash to remove all of the old product, but am not sure that is necessary. How say y’all? |
07-20-2020, 08:16 PM | #2 |
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I feel that most products will streak under certain circumstances. Many issues I come across are from when I wash my microfiber towels with certain soaps. They tend to leave something behind in the towel that leaves streaks. Certain brands of quick detailers are also easier to work with too. Ultimate Quick Detailer is easier than the Ultimate Quick Wax, this is pretty much across the board with the detailers vs the spray waxes.
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07-20-2020, 08:23 PM | #3 |
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I like Pan's video as a broad step-by-step guide on a "full detail", especially as it features an F06! It's a great start point.
Prior to the pandemic I'd gotten really into detailing and started collecting an arsenal of products and equipment. It'll take me a couple weeks but I'm planning to do a full detail to my own specs, interior and exterior. Will post up pics and my experience with various products. Just to add, the tech in car care products is moving at a crazy pace. Whereas waxes were the defacto paint protectant, now you have all manner of ceramics, sealants and toppers which are producing phenomenal results, even for the weekend warrior. Even clay bars are now being replaced with clay pads and mitts which offer the same decon properties without the hassle of handling a piece of slippery clay. To your last point, from my research, I'm going to be using an iron remover spray post wash (Carpro Iron X), followed by a clay mitt (fine grade), followed by an IPA wipedown (Carpro Eraser) pre-and during the paint correction stage - (I guess this would be the vinegar replacement?) Here's a video showing the cleaning properties of different products for removing built-up mineral deposits, and includes vinegar as a test subject. Use the "plastic bag" test to see if your paint surface is contaminated enough to need clay material (after a good wash). Also, without knowing what prior treatment the paint has been given (or what coatings are on there), a stripping shampoo and an iron remover should remove surface chemicals and give you a good base to analyze. The only part I'm hesitating on for myself is finishing with a ceramic coat - currently planning to go the wax route (Adam's Buttery) followed by a topping (P&S beadmaker) as my protectant layers. Edit: I went through AMMO's training academy in detail and it totally changed the way I approach working on a car's paint. Last edited by MMMM6GC; 07-20-2020 at 08:30 PM.. |
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07-20-2020, 11:04 PM | #4 | |
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Last edited by Opie55; 07-20-2020 at 11:12 PM.. |
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07-21-2020, 12:51 AM | #5 | |
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07-21-2020, 07:56 AM | #6 | |
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I mostly didn't want to drop the cash on $100+ ceramic product to use right after my first go at paint correcting, in case I missed spots or was unhappy with the results. With a wax I could remove it easily and also see how I feel about the finish - I've read some people saying they don't like "artifical look" ceramic coating gives - have you noticed any difference in wax vs ceramic? |
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Frupal791.50 |
07-21-2020, 01:08 PM | #7 | |||
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Ceramic coating included a detail and paint correction. Quotes were all under $1k, which makes sense given the hours of labour required + materials. The cost suddenly jumped to $3k+ when looking at PPF, primarily due to the high cost of quality film, and again the labour required to prep correctly. It was after seeing these I decided to spend the $1k on my own tools+supplies, do all 3 of my cars and pick up some skills and knowledge in the price. PPF is something I ultimately felt I didn't do enough miles to invest in yet - but will certainly keep in consideration. Quote:
WRT to claying - the same principle applies. People are too quick to clay when a car may not need this and unnecessary abrasives are used on the clear coat. Now my car looks like it hasn't been washed in a year, or detailed since new I'll be doing all the detailing steps... |
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07-21-2020, 05:57 PM | #8 | |
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MMMM6GC275.00 |
07-21-2020, 10:35 PM | #9 | |
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07-21-2020, 10:55 PM | #10 |
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I didn't. I just saw that CSL was far more forgiving than original CS, and it got no bad reviews that I saw and is clearly used by a lot of pros, and not just DIYers.
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