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      11-16-2020, 02:26 PM   #89
jjasonSU
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Originally Posted by rexpontius View Post
My 2013 650 Gran Coupe is now at 126K miles, without any major issues.
Do all maintenance myself, so far biggest repairs were Flex-discs, front driveshafts (probably wear faster because car is lowered), rear shock absorbers, and front suspension parts.

Last week-end swapped engine mounts and trans mount.

Car has been tuned from 50K miles, now with Bootmod3 stage 1, with NGK plugs and new coils.

Still feels strong and smooth as ever.
Wow this is great to hear. Been thinking about tuning mine as well from a similar point you were, 48k miles, but I know she is not new anymore so concerned about adding wear now.
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      11-18-2020, 07:42 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by MichaelInChicago View Post
The 650 GC is a much more fun and engaging car to drive than the 640 GC with its much stronger acceleration, and the engine/exhaust note is much more sport oriented.

I also doubt that the 650 will depreciate faster than the 640. If anything, it should depreciate at a slower rate. People who are in the market for these type of cars, which are relatively rare, understand the differences between the turbocharged inline 6 and the twin turbo V8 and want the feel, power and sound one gets from a high performance BMW.
You are so right. I test drove a 640 and it was a dog in my opinion. The power of the 650's V8 is what this very heavy car needs. Love my 2017 650.
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      11-18-2020, 07:24 PM   #91
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelInChicago View Post
The 650 GC is a much more fun and engaging car to drive than the 640 GC with its much stronger acceleration, and the engine/exhaust note is much more sport oriented.

I also doubt that the 650 will depreciate faster than the 640. If anything, it should depreciate at a slower rate. People who are in the market for these type of cars, which are relatively rare, understand the differences between the turbocharged inline 6 and the twin turbo V8 and want the feel, power and sound one gets from a high performance BMW.
You are so right. I test drove a 640 and it was a dog in my opinion. The power of the 650's V8 is what this very heavy car needs. Love my 2017 650.
That is so interesting!
My experience was that 650 over 640 added absolutely nothing other than potentially more reliability problems and worse mpg. I didn't notice the major sound difference as i barely heard both of them. Figured I would have to mod it either way. My 640 with m6 mufflers sounds perfectly :-)
Power difference is definitely there, but to me nothing I would miss on a daily basis. My logic is that i6 engines are really BMW's specialty. V8s, as tempting as they sound, are low volume for BMW and if I wanted a V8, I would rather get an American Muscle. Plus, extra room in the engine compartment with an i6 helps in the dessert heat.
Great thing however is that BMW gave us choice so that we can all enjoy an amazing car that is a 6er!
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      07-07-2021, 11:33 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by ezmaass View Post
None of these issues should deter someone from buying a 650 - it is, after all, one of the very best GT cars in its class. The level of luxury, speed, technology, and drop dead gorgeous looks - it's seriously hard to beat. You really need to step up to something like a Bentley GTC - and the latest, at that - to get something markedly better. Now you're into a $200k+ price range.

Truth be told, even the new 8-series, I feel, doesn't live up to the 6 as a total package - it has the interior quality but not necessarily the style; the same is true of the exterior - good but not gorgeous. The power is the one area it clearly beats the 6, and while I wouldn't turn it down, I never feel like the 6's 445hp leaves me wanting for more. And this is exactly why I'm not trading my 650 for an 850 now.

Just know what you're getting into when you buy it. As I said above, do your homework and buy one that's been treated the right way. Then just be prepared for what MIGHT happen - hope for the best, expect the worst. The 650 is really a nice place to spend time - so enjoy it! There seriously aren't many cars that are THIS complete of a package.

Lastly, it's worth shopping for one with the bells and whistles. All the little stuff adds up - whether B&O, adaptive drive, night vision, or even the active seats. It all adds to the atmosphere of what's a very luxurious and stylish package.
Really great post, thank you!
I have a 2010 650 Coupe & I am still in love with it. I'm at 120K & still going like a champ... that being said I have a great mechanic.
Fingers crossed... It'll be hard to let it go.
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      08-20-2021, 03:14 PM   #93
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I am looking at buying a 2012 650i with 56,000 miles I can get an extended warranty but is it that big of a game with this year model or hit and miss?

Last edited by bls8195; 08-20-2021 at 03:16 PM.. Reason: spelling
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      08-20-2021, 05:18 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by bls8195 View Post
I am looking at buying a 2012 650i with 56,000 miles I can get an extended warranty but is it that big of a game with this year model or hit and miss?
You have responses in your other thread, but every "troublesome" car is hit and miss to some degree. There are many 2012s still going strong, many that run fine but use oil like crazy, and some that have had their engines seize. The real question is why even look at a 2012 when a 2013 can be had for marginally more, if any more.
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      08-21-2021, 12:30 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by bls8195 View Post
I am looking at buying a 2012 650i with 56,000 miles I can get an extended warranty but is it that big of a game with this year model or hit and miss?
Add some amount and go with 2014. Upgraded engine. Better interior and a little bit technology.
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      08-21-2021, 02:29 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by Kolianovskyi View Post
Add some amount and go with 2014. Upgraded engine. Better interior and a little bit technology.
How is the interior better in 2014?
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      08-21-2021, 07:08 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolianovskyi View Post
Add some amount and go with 2014. Upgraded engine. Better interior and a little bit technology.
How is the interior better in 2014?
Led cluster. M steering wheel…
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      08-21-2021, 10:12 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by Kolianovskyi View Post
Led cluster. M steering wheel…
While I think some 2014s had an optional led cluster, I think most were still analog, and I thought the newer style M wheel started in 2015, as did the larger iDrive knob. .
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      08-21-2021, 10:16 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by Kolianovskyi View Post
Led cluster. M steering wheel…
I stand corrected. I just looked and 2014s do indeed have those changes. Not sure why I thought it was 2015.
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      08-21-2021, 10:30 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolianovskyi View Post
Led cluster. M steering wheel…
I stand corrected. I just looked and 2014s do indeed have those changes. Not sure why I thought it was 2015.
Mine produced 11/2013 and first sold 04/2014. Already has all those mods.
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      08-21-2021, 01:36 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
How is the interior better in 2014?
For me, the only thing “better” in the interior that a 2014 would have over then 2013 model year is iDrive/NBT. But I think that came with either the 3/13 or 4/13 build date. The NBT has better resolution than the last version CIC iDrive along with some slightly different functions that can be coded if you have coding software like the Bimmercode app.

The 6WB cluster is a personal loss or gain. I prefer the analog/digital 6WA cluster over the all digital 6WB cluster everyday of the week. Personally, I just don’t care for the all digital cluster…I’m probably still “traumatized” by the horrible digital clusters of the 1980s that turned me off from digital instrument clusters). I like some of the analog aspects of the 6WA…like having real needles and markings in the speedometer & tach gauges. Sometimes there is glare on the cluster (from the sun) and it can wash out. But the 6WA cluster’s analog markings still give you an idea of what the gauge is reading etc. & are still visible when the car is shut down.

The 6WA can also code in some functions (like turn indicators) in the HUD that the 6WB can’t.

And just to make sure we are all on the same page…there are three different clusters. There’s the base analog cluster (1st & 2nd pics below) that has 4 anodized rings and the digitized section of the cluster is relegated to the far right of the display. The analog/digital 6WA cluster (3rd & 4th pics below) has 4 anodized semi-rings that are similar to horseshoes where they are open on the bottom…and the rest of the ring is digitized (along the bottom) and is encompassed within the digital information that goes all the way across the bottom of the cluster. The digital 6WB cluster (5th & 6th pics below) has digital rings that look like mirrored cCs…and disappear when the car is powered down.

The larger iDrive controller knob is also a wash for me…the smaller knob that doesn’t have the capability of writing with your finger doesn’t bother me.

And since 2G & 3G are both dead (or soon to be dead)…unless you have a late 2016 - 2019 F chassis 6 series…the 2014’s iDrive NBT/ID4 isn’t going to be a big win other than it having better resolution.
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Last edited by Qsilver7; 08-21-2021 at 01:54 PM..
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      08-22-2021, 09:26 AM   #102
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I sold mine at just over 50k due to a laundry list of issues (suspension noises, oil leaks, coolant leaks, window issues, seat cooling issues, and plenty more I've since forgotten)
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      03-06-2023, 09:32 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by BMW650Fan View Post
I purchased a 2014 650i F13 coupe with 19000 miles over a year ago and it's been perfect up until now 12000 miles later. Literally zero problems over about 14 months.

Anyone had the high pressure fuel pump replaced under warranty? It seems BMW is covering it for 10 years/120,000 miles so it must be a problem with a lot of people.

Mine started running rough and getting mis-fires last week on all 8 cylinders. Checked the codes yesterday and other than the misfires I'm getting 11AD02, 11B401, 11B214, 11B801, 11B70, 11B213 all relating to fuel pressure being too low. It could be the in tank supply pump but I'm guessing it's the HPFP. My first thought was to change the fuel filter, but was very surprised to learn there is no fuel filter on these models. There is a strainer on the supply pump and that's it.

I have an appointment at the dealer Friday to diagnose it and hopefully get it covered under warranty. Just wondering if anyone else has had either fuel pump go south?
Im getting the exact same problem at 91,000 miles. Took it to one dealer and they voided my warranty for having an apple car play module (?). Took it to two other dealers and one quoted me 7,000 dollars to replace all the wiring in the car and the other told me without the codes, they can't do anything. What did it end up being for your car?
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