Turbo coolant lines DIY

[Msparta]

Another diy I just finished... pics speak for themselves... my coolant lines were in bad shape and due for replacement on the pipe joints. I ordered the kit oem and got right into it.

Was very easy just be careful bot to bend the thin aluminum lines as they are fragile. New clips, new oem rubber joints tubbing and I had previously ordered the clip tool to press them and remove the old ones.

Minimal leakage is expected when removing the initial joint... just have some rags under the lines...

Overall it came out better then if I would have had the dealer do it... my opinion.

Now if anyone can help point me to the best cleaner to use to try and cleanup what seems like prior coolant leak stains all over the engine bay on metal parts... I purchased small steel and copper brushes but have not identified the ideal cleaner to remove the stains....

[m6NYC]

Very clean, nice work! Will be doing these aswell soon.

[Whipple]

Did anyone try these from project gamma?

https://www.shopprojectgamma.com/pro...-coolant-lines

[m6NYC]

Originally Posted by Whipple

Did anyone try these from project gamma?

https://www.shopprojectgamma.com/pro...-coolant-lines

Interesting find! I doubt they will show much performance improvement or reduce heat soak. I've driven the beast with bone empty turbo coolant tanks in between dealer servicing (not intentional, there just isn't a dash indicator light). After topping up the weirdly located coolant tank for the turbos, i hardly felt a difference.

[Cincinnatus]

Originally Posted by m6NYC

Interesting find! I doubt they will show much performance improvement or reduce heat soak. I've driven the beast with bone empty turbo coolant tanks for in between dealer servicing (not intentional, there just isn't a dash indicator light). After topping up the weirdly located coolant tank for the turbos, i hardly felt a difference.

Whoa. Had no idea there's a coolant tank just for the turbos.

[Msparta]

Originally Posted by Whipple

Did anyone try these from project gamma?

https://www.shopprojectgamma.com/pro...-coolant-lines

Any actual pics available? Seems like a mock-up cg...

Aluminum parts and tubing that are exposed to high heat can have direct effect on anodized finishes ... if it is hard anodized then it's a premium finish vs regular anodized finish. Also the percentage of other materials on the aluminum can be unknowns... those lines get hot AF.

Maybe they are oem lines that are anodized treated. Hard anodized is what apple does to their products to keep them from getting marked too easily. These oem lines are super soft and fragile bare aluminum stock.

[Whipple]

Originally Posted by Msparta

Any actual pics available? Seems like a mock-up cg...

Aluminum parts and tubing that are exposed to high heat can have direct effect on anodized finishes ... if it is hard anodized then it's a premium finish vs regular anodized finish. Also the percentage of other materials on the aluminum can be unknowns... those lines get hot AF.

Maybe they are oem lines that are anodized treated. Hard anodized is what apple does to their products to keep them from getting marked too easily. These oem lines are super soft and fragile bare aluminum stock.

I see Tommy Turbo is using them , he says there doing fine

[Msparta]

Originally Posted by Whipple

I see Tommy Turbo is using them , he says there doing fine

That's an intense red! They look thicker or maybe it's me.. looks great though!

Any idea what cat down pipes those are?

[Whipple]

Originally Posted by Msparta

That's an intense red! They look thicker or maybe it's me.. looks great though!

Any idea what cat down pipes those are?

It is an intense Red , they actually match the silicone color to the red paint on the intercoolers very close

The OD is definitely thicker, I would assume the ID would be very close the same they would have to maintain the same flow, I would hope

The only thing Im not crazy about the silicone lines is they don’t utilize the factory supports they seem like they just float there

Those are Catless downpipes , not sure what brand ,that car is from the the UK so maybe Evolve

[patchesj]

Yeah, this seems like one of those "is it really doing what you think it is doing" kind of products. The "heat soak" is all from the turbo's themselves, and the problem is the factory rubber junction hoses falling apart. You aren't going to add any more heat to the coolant from the air vs the turbo housings it just came from. The factory aluminum tubes aren't going to wear out, and the chance of failure is significantly less than whatever they have used to create that bonded Y fitting in silicone... Replacing hard tubing with flex silicone doesn't really accomplish anything other than look like you've spent $200 on some cool colors. But maybe if they were made out of carbon fiber and saved weight....

--further thought, the unsupported nature of the installation is going to lead to a physical wearing on the bottom of the hoses since they are laying on something with significant vibration. This just doesn't seem like a good idea at all.

[aann]

Originally Posted by Msparta

Another diy I just finished... pics speak for themselves... my coolant lines were in bad shape and due for replacement on the pipe joints. I ordered the kit oem and got right into it.

Was very easy just be careful bot to bend the thin aluminum lines as they are fragile. New clips, new oem rubber joints tubbing and I had previously ordered the clip tool to press them and remove the old ones.

Minimal leakage is expected when removing the initial joint... just have some rags under the lines...

Overall it came out better then if I would have had the dealer do it... my opinion.

Now if anyone can help point me to the best cleaner to use to try and cleanup what seems like prior coolant leak stains all over the engine bay on metal parts... I purchased small steel and copper brushes but have not identified the ideal cleaner to remove the stains....

Can you post the part numbers for the coolant lines that you . replaced

[GRIMA]

You can use FLEXFAB 3/8” ID silicone hose (1 ft is enough for all four replacement) and 10-16mm metal clamps

[uddinsa]

After completing did u have to top up coolant or bleed air etc…like you normaly do for engine coolant ??

[Msparta]

Originally Posted by uddinsa

After completing did u have to top up coolant or bleed air etc…like you normaly do for engine coolant ??

Yes and a few drives in you have to keep a close eye not to have the mini coolant run low as any loss of coolant can settle the flow over time…

Wish I had posted some recent diy as I have been restoring the m6 … hope I find time to document the next fix - I do have parts on the way… stay tunned

[Blaxwil]

I used a different type of clamp and a high grade high temp hose. I’ll have to find the link for the clamps and hose I used. I haven’t had a coolant hose issue in over 100k miles since completing this mod.

[Msparta]

Nice, share pics if possible would love to see what you did.

I recently had to replace a ruptured hose near one of the coolant pumps midway down the front of the engine (difficult to get to). The hose was a special PVC / rubber hose which I ended up breaking trying to change it off. It was brittle.

This had me thinking that most hoses can def begin to wear at 90k+ miles… then i realized wait there are like 60+ hoses and most impossible to get to unless you remove the engine lol the S63tu is an insane engine with insane upkeep 🤣