Zymöl Carbon

[Frupal]

I remember, back in my NSX days - 1994 - 2005 - I always had a guy named Martgol who had a detail shop called Martgol’s Magic detail my cars. He charged an exorbitant $350.00 for a complete detail and the cars always came back looking wet and shiny enough for a concours d’elegance appearance.

One day I asked him his secret and he turned me on to Zymöl Carnauba wax. I bought some right away, but never used it because I was too busy working to bother waxing my own cars.

Fast forward to now when I was semi-retired until March, when the virus retired me, I now have the time and desire to detail my own cars. I had been using The Meguiar’s Ultimate products and was pretty happy with them until this last wax when I noticed that the Ultimate Quick wax left streaks and splotches in my carbon black paint.

This annoyed me. So I did some research and found that I had forgotten all about Carnauba and about Zymöl. So I ordered a tub of the Carbon - specifically designed for ‘dark’ cars. I’m going to go ahead and assume that Zymöl Carbon was specifically designed For Carbon Black cars.

It arrives Thursday. I’ll let you know how it goes. My paint is smooth as a newborn’s bottom, but I am still considering a clay job, or perhaps a vinegar wash to remove all of the old product, but am not sure that is necessary. How say y’all?

[Derekz4]

I feel that most products will streak under certain circumstances. Many issues I come across are from when I wash my microfiber towels with certain soaps. They tend to leave something behind in the towel that leaves streaks. Certain brands of quick detailers are also easier to work with too. Ultimate Quick Detailer is easier than the Ultimate Quick Wax, this is pretty much across the board with the detailers vs the spray waxes.

[MMMM6GC]

I like Pan's video as a broad step-by-step guide on a "full detail", especially as it features an F06! It's a great start point.

Prior to the pandemic I'd gotten really into detailing and started collecting an arsenal of products and equipment. It'll take me a couple weeks but I'm planning to do a full detail to my own specs, interior and exterior. Will post up pics and my experience with various products.

Just to add, the tech in car care products is moving at a crazy pace. Whereas waxes were the defacto paint protectant, now you have all manner of ceramics, sealants and toppers which are producing phenomenal results, even for the weekend warrior. Even clay bars are now being replaced with clay pads and mitts which offer the same decon properties without the hassle of handling a piece of slippery clay.

To your last point, from my research, I'm going to be using an iron remover spray post wash (Carpro Iron X), followed by a clay mitt (fine grade), followed by an IPA wipedown (Carpro Eraser) pre-and during the paint correction stage - (I guess this would be the vinegar replacement?) Here's a video showing the cleaning properties of different products for removing built-up mineral deposits, and includes vinegar as a test subject.

Use the "plastic bag" test to see if your paint surface is contaminated enough to need clay material (after a good wash). Also, without knowing what prior treatment the paint has been given (or what coatings are on there), a stripping shampoo and an iron remover should remove surface chemicals and give you a good base to analyze.

The only part I'm hesitating on for myself is finishing with a ceramic coat - currently planning to go the wax route (Adam's Buttery) followed by a topping (P&S beadmaker) as my protectant layers.

Edit: I went through AMMO's training academy in detail and it totally changed the way I approach working on a car's paint.

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by MMMM6GC

I like Pan's video as a broad step-by-step guide on a "full detail", especially as it features an F06! It's a great start point.

Prior to the pandemic I'd gotten really into detailing and started collecting an arsenal of products and equipment. It'll take me a couple weeks but I'm planning to do a full detail to my own specs, interior and exterior. Will post up pics and my experience with various products.

Just to add, the tech in car care products is moving at a crazy pace. Whereas waxes were the defacto paint protectant, now you have all manner of ceramics, sealants and toppers which are producing phenomenal results, even for the weekend warrior. Even clay bars are now being replaced with clay pads and mitts which offer the same decon properties without the hassle of handling a piece of slippery clay.

To your last point, from my research, I'm going to be using an iron remover spray post wash (Carpro Iron X), followed by a clay mitt (fine grade), followed by an IPA wipedown (Carpro Eraser) pre-and during the paint correction stage - (I guess this would be the vinegar replacement?) Here's a video showing the cleaning properties of different products for removing built-up mineral deposits, and includes vinegar as a test subject.

Use the "plastic bag" test to see if your paint surface is contaminated enough to need clay material (after a good wash). Also, without knowing what prior treatment the paint has been given (or what coatings are on there), a stripping shampoo and an iron remover should remove surface chemicals and give you a good base to analyze.

The only part I'm hesitating on for myself is finishing with a ceramic coat - currently planning to go the wax route (Adam's Buttery) followed by a topping (P&S beadmaker) as my protectant layers.

Edit: I went through AMMO's training academy in detail and it totally changed the way I approach working on a car's paint.

I also was hesitant to try a DIY ceramic, but used GTechniq Crystal Serum Light topped with GTechniq EXO (optional) and I think it is pretty much fool proof. All the videos make it seem like you need to use way more care than you actually do. Once the surface is ready to put it on, I would say it is no more difficult than waxing. You wipe it off much sooner than wax - before it dries - but otherwise the process is pretty much identical to waxing your car in 2x2 foot sections.

[BMPOWERED]

Originally Posted by Opie55

I also was hesitant to try a DIY ceramic, but used GTechniq Crystal Serum Light topped with GTechniq EXO (optional) and I think it is pretty much fool proof. All the videos make it seem like you need to use way more care than you actually do. Once the surface is ready to put it on, I would say it is no more difficult than waxing. You wipe it off much sooner than wax - before it dries - but otherwise the process is pretty much identical to waxing your car in 2x2 foot sections.

Very good point. My detailer told me a couple of years ago that the industry wanted keep the general public believing that ceramic coating application was way more difficult than it actually is, so that the detailers could continue charging $1200-$3000 for coatings.

[MMMM6GC]

Originally Posted by Opie55

I also was hesitant to try a DIY ceramic, but used GTechniq Crystal Serum Light topped with GTechniq EXO (optional) and I think it is pretty much fool proof. All the videos make it seem like you need to use way more care than you actually do. Once the surface is ready to put it on, I would say it is no more difficult than waxing. You wipe it off much sooner than wax - before it dries - but otherwise the process is pretty much identical to waxing your car in 2x2 foot sections.

Good to hear!
I mostly didn't want to drop the cash on $100+ ceramic product to use right after my first go at paint correcting, in case I missed spots or was unhappy with the results.
With a wax I could remove it easily and also see how I feel about the finish - I've read some people saying they don't like "artifical look" ceramic coating gives - have you noticed any difference in wax vs ceramic?

[MMMM6GC]

Originally Posted by Derekz4

I feel that most products will streak under certain circumstances. Many issues I come across are from when I wash my microfiber towels with certain soaps. They tend to leave something behind in the towel that leaves streaks. Certain brands of quick detailers are also easier to work with too. Ultimate Quick Detailer is easier than the Ultimate Quick Wax, this is pretty much across the board with the detailers vs the spray waxes.

This is an important consideration and it's why some of the pro youtube detailers have "OCD" videos on correct towel washing protocol. Larry goes into the science behind it, which I found interesting and reassuring. It sounds crazy but it really makes a difference - your microfiber or pad is the only thing touching the paint surface. No matter how expensive the product or how good/bad the paint is, if the contact material is dirty/contaminated/damaged, at best you'll have sub-par results.

Originally Posted by BMPOWERED

Very good point. My detailer told me a couple of years ago that the industry wanted keep the general public believing that ceramic coating application was way more difficult than it actually is, so that the detailers could continue charging $1200-$3000 for coatings.

I think this is beginning to change now. I shopped around for quotes earlier in the year for 1 - Ceramic Coating and 2 - PPF.

Ceramic coating included a detail and paint correction. Quotes were all under $1k, which makes sense given the hours of labour required + materials.

The cost suddenly jumped to $3k+ when looking at PPF, primarily due to the high cost of quality film, and again the labour required to prep correctly.

It was after seeing these I decided to spend the $1k on my own tools+supplies, do all 3 of my cars and pick up some skills and knowledge in the price. PPF is something I ultimately felt I didn't do enough miles to invest in yet - but will certainly keep in consideration.

Originally Posted by Frupal

I remember, back in my NSX days - 1994 - 2005 - I always had a guy named Martgol who had a detail shop called Martgol’s Magic detail my cars. He charged an exorbitant $350.00 for a complete detail and the cars always came back looking wet and shiny enough for a concours d’elegance appearance.

One day I asked him his secret and he turned me on to Zymöl Carnauba wax. I bought some right away, but never used it because I was too busy working to bother waxing my own cars.

Fast forward to now when I was semi-retired until March, when the virus retired me, I now have the time and desire to detail my own cars. I had been using The Meguiar’s Ultimate products and was pretty happy with them until this last wax when I noticed that the Ultimate Quick wax left streaks and splotches in my carbon black paint.

This annoyed me. So I did some research and found that I had forgotten all about Carnauba and about Zymöl. So I ordered a tub of the Carbon - specifically designed for ‘dark’ cars. I’m going to go ahead and assume that Zymöl Carbon was specifically designed For Carbon Black cars.

It arrives Thursday. I’ll let you know how it goes. My paint is smooth as a newborn’s bottom, but I am still considering a clay job, or perhaps a vinegar wash to remove all of the old product, but am not sure that is necessary. How say y’all?

One more point I thought RE clay. The reason I mentioned Larry/AMMO's training course (with the legend Kevin "Buff Daddy" Brown") changed my approach to detailing is because we tend to be stuck in the old ways of buying products and attacking our car's paint with a desired finish in mind. I now have the mindset that everything contacting your paint surface is - to some level - an abrasive. You have a finite (read: tiny amount) of clearcoat. That's all you have to play with and you want the best finish while preserving this ultimate protective layer.

WRT to claying - the same principle applies. People are too quick to clay when a car may not need this and unnecessary abrasives are used on the clear coat. Now my car looks like it hasn't been washed in a year, or detailed since new I'll be doing all the detailing steps...

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by MMMM6GC

Good to hear!
I mostly didn't want to drop the cash on $100+ ceramic product to use right after my first go at paint correcting, in case I missed spots or was unhappy with the results.
With a wax I could remove it easily and also see how I feel about the finish - I've read some people saying they don't like "artifical look" ceramic coating gives - have you noticed any difference in wax vs ceramic?

When ceramic is first applied it looks a bit shiner than most waxes I suppose, but not in a way I found to be a negative. It does not look plasticy in my opinion. Where you really notice the difference, especially with EXO on top, is how it repels water, which also means it does not retain dirt. I've washed it without soap several times. Just water pretty much washes everything away. I took it once to a DIY high pressure wand car wash and used the normal soap wash. Because the surface is so slick the water just collects in big globs and streams which also concentrates the soap, which made it look exactly like I was washing my car with milk. And drying it seems like a magic trick. You wipe the MF towel though beads of water, but since you don't get it all, the remainder immediately forms new beads so it's like trying to blow out those magic birthday cake candles. As for missing a spot, you won't, but don't worry if you do. Even if you see some scratches that you wish you had corrected better, you can just polish them out and redo that spot. If you miss a spot, just wipe some on. It's really that forgiving. Trust me.

[MMMM6GC]

Originally Posted by Opie55

When ceramic is first applied it looks a bit shiner than most waxes I suppose, but not in a way I found to be a negative. It does not look plasticy in my opinion. Where you really notice the difference, especially with EXO on top, is how it repels water, which also means it does not retain dirt. I've washed it without soap several times. Just water pretty much washes everything away. I took it once to a DIY high pressure wand car wash and used the normal soap wash. Because the surface is so slick the water just collects in big globs and streams which also concentrates the soap, which made it look exactly like I was washing my car with milk. And drying it seems like a magic trick. You wipe the MF towel though beads of water, but since you don't get it all, the remainder immediately forms new beads so it's like trying to blow out those magic birthday cake candles. As for missing a spot, you won't, but don't worry if you do. Even if you see some scratches that you wish you had corrected better, you can just polish them out and redo that spot. If you miss a spot, just wipe some on. It's really that forgiving. Trust me.

Oh dayum - now I'm tempted! Without taking the thread off topic - did you look into CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 (vs Gtechniq + EXOv4) - this seems to be the other popular DIY ceramic coating

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by MMMM6GC

Oh dayum - now I'm tempted! Without taking the thread off topic - did you look into CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 (vs Gtechniq + EXOv4) - this seems to be the other popular DIY ceramic coating

I didn't. I just saw that CSL was far more forgiving than original CS, and it got no bad reviews that I saw and is clearly used by a lot of pros, and not just DIYers.