12-30-2023, 09:24 AM | #45 | |
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1) If the headlight degradation is minor; your goal is to simply remove the failing upper layer of clear. So, you want to end with a very fine grit sandpaper around 2000 grit or so. You can then follow that with a compound/polish via buffer but be careful not to burn the lens. Machine buffing speeds the process up and removes the labor; otherwise you can buff it out by hand also. You're just making a correction in this instance. I made a quick DIY video HERE that may be helpful. 2) If the headlight degradation is major; your goal is to remove most if not all of the original clear, and then apply a new clear coat. Consequently, you want to end with a sandpaper around 600 grit or so. Otherwise, whatever the clear coat recommendations are. You don't want to end with a fine grit sandpaper such as above, because the clear most likely will not adhere properly. So, it may begin to flake off after a few years or less. You're performing a full restoration in this instance. Good luck, Ralph |
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12-30-2023, 06:56 PM | #46 |
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Hello Ralph. If a small area like 10% of the headlight has clear pealing then should I remove all the clear or just that section and leave the rest of the clear on and clear coat the whole thing?
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12-30-2023, 11:37 PM | #47 | |
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It's a judgemental call. You really only have to remove all of the original clear, if it has completely failed as with extensive yellowing, cracking, and flaking. In your case, I'd recommend sanding all of the lens thoroughly and see how the clear reacts. If the flaking is minimal and the remaining clear seems strong while sanding; then you're probably good to move on to applying the new clear. Just finish up with 600 grit or so for good adhesion. If you have a spray gun, I'd get some quality clear and go that route. Otherwise, I've had pretty good luck with Eastwoods 2k DuraSpray in a can for headlight restoration. God Bless, Ralph |
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