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      08-06-2015, 10:59 AM   #1
speedracerlo
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Best way to make the exhaust popping sound?

I'm still on my stock mufflers and will probably get the Turner muffler delete soon, but I was wondering if I could still retain the exhaust popping sound I sometimes hear while shifting at high rpms. This popping sounds like a shotgun going off and I love it, but I can't seem to replicate it all the time. It happens the most from 1st to 2nd gear and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. I would push the rev to about 4-5k and then push it one more time and shift right away and it makes a very loud burst from the mufflers. Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about?
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      08-06-2015, 02:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedracerlo View Post
I'm still on my stock mufflers and will probably get the Turner muffler delete soon, but I was wondering if I could still retain the exhaust popping sound I sometimes hear while shifting at high rpms. This popping sounds like a shotgun going off and I love it, but I can't seem to replicate it all the time. It happens the most from 1st to 2nd gear and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. I would push the rev to about 4-5k and then push it one more time and shift right away and it makes a very loud burst from the mufflers. Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about?
E63 M6 owner here. I get the report that you are describing on every upshift over 2/3'rd throttle and almost all downshifts.

I have a Tubi Mid-Pipe and Section 3. My car does exactly as you describe but it sounds like a large caliber, high-powered rifle. It can be heard for nearly half a mile.

The exhaust was the best investment that I have ever made. Good luck and please keep us posted!
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      08-06-2015, 02:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedracerlo View Post
I'm still on my stock mufflers and will probably get the Turner muffler delete soon, but I was wondering if I could still retain the exhaust popping sound I sometimes hear while shifting at high rpms. This popping sounds like a shotgun going off and I love it, but I can't seem to replicate it all the time. It happens the most from 1st to 2nd gear and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. I would push the rev to about 4-5k and then push it one more time and shift right away and it makes a very loud burst from the mufflers. Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about?
Oh you're going to so love the Turner on shifts... If you were closer to OC, you could hear mine.
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      08-06-2015, 03:53 PM   #4
speedracerlo
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Originally Posted by C5driver View Post
Oh you're going to so love the Turner on shifts... If you were closer to OC, you could hear mine.
Wish I had some time to drive down there to hear your car
But judging from what you just said, I'm in a bigger rush to get the Turner
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      08-06-2015, 04:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedracerlo View Post
Wish I had some time to drive down there to hear your car
But judging from what you just said, I'm in a bigger rush to get the Turner
Play around with the ASD. It's a 5 minute mod with two uniquely different driving experiences.
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      08-06-2015, 08:55 PM   #6
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Is there anyone near LA / Beverly Hills area that has Turner Muffler Delete so I can hear?
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      08-08-2015, 12:44 AM   #7
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I just bought the Turner Muffler. It was on sale for 999. A steal.
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      08-08-2015, 09:47 AM   #8
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I am eager to see what you think after this is installed. I am torn on either getting the Turner muffler delete or the BMW Competition muffler set which they also sell. Nothing has been said about how the BMW Competition mufflers sound compared to stock.
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      08-08-2015, 02:48 PM   #9
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well if you're torn between those two, but you got some extra $ to burn get the BMW competition. it's the akrapovic rebranded as BMW for a little cheaper. I'd save my money and get the Dinan Stage I with the Turner and more.
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      08-09-2015, 08:57 PM   #10
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whats ASD?
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      10-17-2015, 09:04 PM   #11
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Lightbulb Ways to create the exhaust pop

Speedracerlo,

I have a 2014 M6 with no mods. I love that sound and can give you some tips on how to replicate it consistently.

First it is important to understand where the pop is coming from. It's un burnt fuel reacting with fresh oxygen and partially igniting from heat of the exhaust system. As the fuel air mixture ignites it heats up, expands and causes the BRAP we love so much. The un burnt fuel gets into the exhaust because the engine management system continues to inject fuel through the system to cool the turbine after it heats up from hard acceleration.

Here's a few tips on how to get the system to BRAP:
  • Let the engine warm up. If the turbines are not hot, fuel won't be used to cool them. If the exhaust tips are not hot, they won't ignite the fuel as it runs through the system.
  • Use sport or sport plus engine settings. Both settings keep the turbines spinning faster so they will spool up faster. The turbines will also run hotter because exhaust will be running through them more consistently.
  • Roll on full throttle at a low RPM. Starting at a lower rpm gives the turbine a longer time spool up and generate heat.
  • Don't loose traction. Using 2nd gear helps here.
  • Short Shift. This is the most important tip. Short shifting (about 5,700 RPM from second to third) at full throttle causes the engine to retard the ignition for a brief moment to allow for a smoother shift. During that time fuel continues to flow into the exhaust, unburnt. Shifting near redline doesn't have the same effect because the system knows that there is significantly less torque at that RPM and shifting will be significantly smoother, therefore the amount of ignition retarding if any won't send enough unburnt fuel through the system. Peak torque is at ~6,000 RPM so that's your target.
  • In third use slightly higher RPM's. Above 3rd, gear spacing gets closer so ignition retarding doesn't have to compensate for a large RPM shift. I find letting revs climb and abruptly removing throttle will sometime cause a brap.
  • First gear is very difficult to brap. There is not enough traction to apply full throttle at low RPM's which allow the turbine to spool up and generate heat. From 2,500 RPM to 3,200 RPM the engine begins to generate an additional 125 ft/lbs of torque with an additional surge above 5,000 RPM. Both torque surges, especially the earlier one, typically cause a loss of traction in 1st gear. The more traction control gets involved, the less chance you will have at creating a brap.

Hope this helps.

If your engine is already at operating temp, you can get the exhaust to brap while in neutral. Use sport plus. Do one short rev to pre spool the turbine. Just before getting back to idle, give a full throttle rev and abruptly remove throttle at 5,500 RPM ish (perhaps higher.) Use a higher RPM than you use for short shifting. You need the turbine to spool up and generate heat. When you pull back on the throttle, the engine will send fuel through the exhaust to cool the turbines. If the engine isn't hot this is a waste of time and if it is cold it won't even rev. NOTE: don't make the same mistake I made. Always check to make sure you are in neutral first. I pulled into a parking spot, engaged the safety brake and to satisfy a friends request attempted the rev but forgot I was still in first. Oops.
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      10-18-2015, 09:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony@tony-t.com View Post

NOTE: don't make the same mistake I made. Always check to make sure you are in neutral first. I pulled into a parking spot, engaged the safety brake and to satisfy a friends request attempted the rev but forgot I was still in first. Oops.
That is a VERY important NOTE, It's easy if you are in a rush to move the gear selector the wrong way thinking you are in neutral when you are still in Drive. It will lead to a very embarrassing moment.
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      10-21-2015, 08:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony@tony-t.com View Post
Speedracerlo,

I have a 2014 M6 with no mods. I love that sound and can give you some tips on how to replicate it consistently.

First it is important to understand where the pop is coming from. It's un burnt fuel reacting with fresh oxygen and partially igniting from heat of the exhaust system. As the fuel air mixture ignites it heats up, expands and causes the BRAP we love so much. The un burnt fuel gets into the exhaust because the engine management system continues to inject fuel through the system to cool the turbine after it heats up from hard acceleration.

Here's a few tips on how to get the system to BRAP:
  • Let the engine warm up. If the turbines are not hot, fuel won't be used to cool them. If the exhaust tips are not hot, they won't ignite the fuel as it runs through the system.
  • Use sport or sport plus engine settings. Both settings keep the turbines spinning faster so they will spool up faster. The turbines will also run hotter because exhaust will be running through them more consistently.
  • Roll on full throttle at a low RPM. Starting at a lower rpm gives the turbine a longer time spool up and generate heat.
  • Don't loose traction. Using 2nd gear helps here.
  • Short Shift. This is the most important tip. Short shifting (about 5,700 RPM from second to third) at full throttle causes the engine to retard the ignition for a brief moment to allow for a smoother shift. During that time fuel continues to flow into the exhaust, unburnt. Shifting near redline doesn't have the same effect because the system knows that there is significantly less torque at that RPM and shifting will be significantly smoother, therefore the amount of ignition retarding if any won't send enough unburnt fuel through the system. Peak torque is at ~6,000 RPM so that's your target.
  • In third use slightly higher RPM's. Above 3rd, gear spacing gets closer so ignition retarding doesn't have to compensate for a large RPM shift. I find letting revs climb and abruptly removing throttle will sometime cause a brap.
  • First gear is very difficult to brap. There is not enough traction to apply full throttle at low RPM's which allow the turbine to spool up and generate heat. From 2,500 RPM to 3,200 RPM the engine begins to generate an additional 125 ft/lbs of torque with an additional surge above 5,000 RPM. Both torque surges, especially the earlier one, typically cause a loss of traction in 1st gear. The more traction control gets involved, the less chance you will have at creating a brap.

Hope this helps.

If your engine is already at operating temp, you can get the exhaust to brap while in neutral. Use sport plus. Do one short rev to pre spool the turbine. Just before getting back to idle, give a full throttle rev and abruptly remove throttle at 5,500 RPM ish (perhaps higher.) Use a higher RPM than you use for short shifting. You need the turbine to spool up and generate heat. When you pull back on the throttle, the engine will send fuel through the exhaust to cool the turbines. If the engine isn't hot this is a waste of time and if it is cold it won't even rev. NOTE: don't make the same mistake I made. Always check to make sure you are in neutral first. I pulled into a parking spot, engaged the safety brake and to satisfy a friends request attempted the rev but forgot I was still in first. Oops.
Wow! Thanks for the detail!

Can't wait till I can try this!!!
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      10-21-2015, 02:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007 to 2016 M6 Cab View Post
Wow! Thanks for the detail!

Can't wait till I can try this!!!
+1.
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