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      05-17-2018, 03:26 PM   #23
danbk
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Autocouture in Fair Lawn, Bimmer Clinic NJ seems like they have like 20+ Ms there as well.
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      03-16-2019, 12:53 PM   #24
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I just went through this!

This just happened to me! I got my car back and running finally after 3 months of hell. All symptoms you went through was the same; I ceased on the highway at 52,000 miles. Only mods I have is cold air intakes.
I purchased a used engine on-line and had shipped to Hawaii for $6,000 and installed with extra parts (seals and gaskets) for $5888. Total for this R&R was just under $12,000. I was aggressive with the labor, showed BMW HAWAII that there were other shops that would counter their ridiculous $25,000 quote to do the R&R.
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      03-17-2019, 07:18 PM   #25
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So is there a specific MY this issue is occurring with the M6?
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      08-16-2019, 09:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbk View Post
Hey guys, unfortunately I believe my engine is Toast.

Driving on the freeway, sport settings, downshifted into second gear to roughly 6500 RPM, car is DCT. Car limped and engine shut off within 2 seconds. I was on a ramp and somehow managed to pull it aside on an high incline. Car had no signs of ticking or knocking, engine oil was changed 1 month ago, and I filled up the oil recently to max. I check the engine oil every week or so and it was at max. Had the car towed(disaster) as we couldn't get into it Neutral so we had to literally drag it on a flatbed(twice). After hours of roadside and towing, got it to my BMW mechanic, and he said the engine is most likely seized, with oil probably running extremely low. We checked for leaks, and I have a garage where there is 0 oil leak in my driveway. There were NO knocks, as I know these rod bearing issues and always kept an ear out for it. Went to 3 reputable BMW shops, and they told me it is 99% seized. It cranks with one tick and then just dies. No engine noise, battery charged. Can't be the starter because it happened at highway speed I'm assuming. Everyone is telling me the scenario that I need a new engine, complete swap, which I can't afford and don't want to do(due to resale difficulty). They all suggest not to rebuild, since it will cost a little less but more complicated and riskier.

Anyone have a similar experience? Car is completely stock, 50k Miles. I maintained the car well, did all fluid changes, pan changes, plug, ignitions, filters, all of the regular Maintenance.

I am really worried on dropping $15K+ on a USED Motor swap, as the car cost me roughly $<50K. Car ran totally fine, of course it was driven the way an M6 is meant to be, but not often.

Any input/advice and opinions would be appreciated, I'm really hoping for something less severe. Thanks for your time!



I have a similar story and from seaching last few weeks there seems to be more people as well. What did you end up doing with the car?
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      12-22-2019, 05:19 PM   #27
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Guys, any updates on this? Interested to see production years on all the ones with similar issues if anyone has the info
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      12-23-2019, 03:50 PM   #28
ep3
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fwiw the oil pump recalls were only for 2013MY
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      12-30-2019, 12:56 PM   #29
danbk
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hey guys, sorry for the no reply since this problem occurred. It has been a stressful one. The car had its engine replaced ($42k invoice) courtesy of BMW. I did have to pay about 8-9k out of pocket for the repair. I have been with BMW since 2010, So I have been a very loyal BMW customer, and have established a good relationship with my dealer. Dealer had car for 2 months approx. Brand New Re-manaf engine replaced with 2 year warranty. The car never drove the same, and has been giving me misc issues all across since, which I have fixed. The N63 did have a promo on their new engines for like $2500 new re-manaf I rememeber on the 50I engines, as the gaskets all went on those engines. See if those are still available. But I would honestly just buy a used motor low miles, swap the rod bearings since the motor is out already(most probably what caused the seize, unless you just never topped off oil). Change oil pump, and have it done ONLY in a common tuner BMW repair shop, such as autocouture in NJ. Sorry for your motor, it happens, BMW!
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      01-01-2020, 03:55 PM   #30
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Well this isn't the first thing I wanted to see because I came in this forum to look for a nice GC to pick up as I was thinking about selling my X5M.

Op quick question what year is your car?
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      07-13-2020, 04:07 PM   #31
danbk
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Hey sorry just seen this, mine is a 2012. Car had some misfires in the very beginning but I got it all fixed down the road. Car is a beast, but I definitely recommend buying one with an extended warranty just to sleep better at night. Might as well get the M8 at this point for $170k
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      07-13-2020, 10:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbk View Post
I am trying to work with them, but its gonna be extremely difficult. What drives me nuts is that there was absolutely no symptoms, car was running great. No codes, even after the failure. Crank is locked in ,cant turn it manually. Problem with a swapped motor is its gonna be 30K+ miles engine anyway, with a potential problem waiting to happen again. And don't wanna waste more money and labor on them opening that one up too to check on the internal components.
believe it or not, you best bet is to bring the car to the closest BMW service and let them contact bmw corporate.... but you must also contact them as well. i felt with a similar problem with my 2011 550. they will use a sliding scale to calculate what you should pay and what will be warranty coverage. I highly doubt they will leave you hanging but you must call corporate as well.
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