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07-16-2014, 08:36 AM | #1 |
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The "What you must do when you pick up your M6 / GC" thread
I was going to wait until nearer the time, but my fingers are too itchy, so.. there are a number of us (in the UK at least) who will be collecting up shiny new Gran Coupes on September 1st.
What does everyone suggest are the first things that need to be done / checked / set / configured / removed etc. |
07-16-2014, 09:27 AM | #2 |
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1) Most important, run it in correctly!! Follow BMWs instructions, but push them to the limit in the first 50-100 miles. You need plenty of relatively light throttle but high rev running, up to the limit set by BMW, 5,000 rpm. Also you need to use engine braking as much as possible. Keeping the revs up and using engine braking helps seat the rings which will give low oil consumption and better power. If this is not done in the first 50-100 miles it will never be done without an engine rebuild.
2) Check the paint carefully, there have been cases of unacceptable paint. 3) Put copper grease on the outside face of the bearings. The bearings are nice and shiny when new, but they rust VERY quickly. Coat with high temperature copper grease ASAP or you'll find your wheels rusted on to them! 4) When the wheels are off, apply a wheel sealant, something like Gtechniq C5. The style of the wheels (all of them for the M5 and M6) makes them hard to clean unless the wheels are treated and the brake dust can be easily washed off. 5) Also, while the wheels are off, check that the shipping block have been removed from the suspension! 6) If the leather is pale, treat this with a leather protection product to help prevent dye transfer. The M6 leather is very soft, it's also quite delicate! 7) Consider getting the front of the car wrapped, the plastic bumper and wings together with the Aluminium bonnet are very prone to stone chipping. 8) If you haven't already, get the service pack, it's cheaper in the long run unless you are going to do virtually no miles. 9) If garaged, keep it on a battery tender as much as possible. 10) Consider winter wheels/tyres depending on what else you have to drive and where you live. With summer there is next to no grip in snow or ice. 11) Don't let bird shit sit on the paint or roof, it will eat into the clear coat. The roof is beautiful, but bird shit will eat into it just the same as paint. 12) Check the oil level regularly, especially at first, so you get to know it's thirst. |
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07-17-2014, 01:57 AM | #3 |
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Push M2.. open both front windows... plenty of throttle... BIG SMILE
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07-17-2014, 02:20 AM | #4 |
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But he has to set the M2 first
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07-19-2014, 08:13 AM | #6 |
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07-20-2014, 12:41 PM | #7 | |
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07-21-2014, 02:35 AM | #9 |
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Mine will be Charged with "electricity".
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07-21-2014, 05:01 AM | #10 |
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07-26-2014, 06:39 AM | #12 |
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I am picking mine up Monday. Can't wait!! Immediate updates ( week 1) will be swapping the front grille and installing BMW m performance grille (all black), rear deck spoiler, and window tint. I also will be installing LED package inside.
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07-29-2014, 08:05 AM | #13 |
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Its arrived at the dealer
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07-29-2014, 08:13 AM | #14 |
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So are you waiting until September 1st?
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07-29-2014, 08:16 AM | #15 |
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Yes frustratingly.. I'm sure it will make a difference come resale.. or maybe not.. a month early might be ok, but what would the hit be if i made it a 2014 car over a 2015 car.. depends if im handing it back at end of lease or trading in i guess....
They sent me my personal video of the car delivered.. will head over at the weekend to take some real pictures and check out the paint work and drop off the stuff i want them to do |
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07-29-2014, 08:19 AM | #16 |
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If you're leasing and hand it back it will make no difference. If you are leasing and want to buy it at the end then it will probably make the car fractionally cheaper to buy! 5 years down the line it will make bugger all difference.
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07-29-2014, 08:46 AM | #17 |
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Actually, I've got a new kitchen being installed in the next few weeks, so there will be a skip on the drive.. so meaning car needs to go on the road.. dont think i want this baby sitting on the road while thats happening, so Sep 1 it will be!
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07-29-2014, 09:18 AM | #18 |
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Check the week it was made to see if you got the upgrades, easiest way to tell is the M1/2 buttons on the steering wheel are now SET 1/2.
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07-29-2014, 09:29 AM | #19 |
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It is the 2015 build that was already checked
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03-03-2015, 11:46 PM | #20 | |
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Anyway, I want to be sure I run it in correctly as soon as I drive off the forecourt, so I want to clarify what the run in process is. Because of its importance I am planning to drive 100 miles in it immediately. What I gather is, I should stay on local roads, accelerating to 5000rpm at whatever the road speed is (so 1st/2nd/3rd gear only) and remaining there but staying in a low gear when decelerating at lights/junctions, using the engine and not depressing the brake pedal. Sound right ? I also assume there’s no point doing this on the motorway/dual carriageway as theres nowhere to slow down/brake ? I want to get it right so would appreciate any confirmation. Also - where did the info actually come from ? Cheers Kamal |
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03-04-2015, 04:16 AM | #21 |
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YES thats the way to do it for say the first 40/50 miles then drive normally but still use the engine braking as much as you can.
You will tnen use little or NO Oil.
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03-04-2015, 06:12 AM | #22 |
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All great advice. May I add that I would ring a qualified coder to give you all the secret goodies that can come from a stroll through the M's computer. For example, I like my steering wheel low, which obscures the turn signals, so I have the turn signals displayed in the heads-up. I have the full dynamic lights. And so forth. The person I use works worldwide and I highly recommend him. Go to the URL codemycar to obtain a list of what you can do. Enjoy!
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