Custom Suits

[NY10]

Where do you guys buy your suits from work?

Are they custom or off the rack? Do you think spending thousands on a good suit is worth it?

[MaC-N54-E82]

Get what you can afford, but make sure it is tailored. Any suit, even expensive ones look cheap off the rack.

[black335i]

Nordstrom, get a couple nice suits. I get mine tailored , included in the cost. I can tell the difference compared to off the rack that I used to get from Macy's. I usually wait for the sales to buy them.

[mleun481]

Depends on your budget, but check out custom suits from Indochino or Oliver Wicks (formerly Dragon Inside). If you're in NY, you can go in person for Indochino to get measured, not sure about Oliver Wicks.

[ny325]

I invested in 5 E. Zegna suits. Navy, Gray, charcoal, pinstripe navy, and a lighter shade navy. They retail around $1,800.00 I always wait until they go on sale before I purchase them. And I always have them tailored to make sure they fit the way there suppose to. I believe investing in a good suit. Because they will last you a very long time, and the fine wool, and craftsmanship is well worth it. Just make sure whatever you purchase, have it tailored. It doesn't matter how much you pay for a suit, it has to fit right.

[RickFLM4]

Thankfully, I don't wear suits often. However, I have 2 from Brooks Brothers and one custom made by a tailor (Ethan Todd) for when I need to wear one.

[NY10]

Thanks. Starting a new job and its business professional so at least a handful of suits are needed asap. I can build from there. Went into the City (Ny) this weekend had 3 tailored for me. I like the fitted suits best, nothing worse than seeing a suit that looks 3 sizes too big.

Once I start gonna pick up some more being 5 days a week that's all I'm gonna be wearing

[RABAUKE]

If you want to switch it up a bit and if it's kosher for your job I'd suggest a couple of good blazers, navy and black. Mix and match with some good slacks, shirts and ties and you can get a lot of milege out of them.

[hz_diesel]

I have recently starting moving towards suits and getting them tailored to fit nicely. I just purchased a CK dark gray slim suit + tayloring. It was during their buy one get one sale so my best friend got one too and we split the cost down the middle. It was cheap, it fits nicely and that is all I really care about.

[overcoil]

To me a business suit is different then a 'suit'. Fine suits like Brioni or some Zegna are fine for dinner, dates and events - great fabric and colors plus hand stitching and they fit perfect no pulling while being comfortable. But a business suit that goes on rotation and may need cleaning means a more durable fabric and probably off the shelf and less expensive.
Pants being hemmed is no big deal. Suit jackets being deconstructed then altered can be an issue ( The only alteration I have done on a jacket is sleeve length ). Really good suit jacket tailor for sleeve length will not work from the cuff but pull the sleeve apart at the shoulder then shorten and reattach (Versace store). And removing a jackets central back seam is always a gamble.
So for a good business suit off the rack from a good department store or company store when price and durability are key factors.
Forgot to mention that a summer weight suit is important if your climate is humid or warm - so suit material choice is something to read.

[chris82]

The first actual suit I bought was from Men's Warehouse. Such higher quality than those from a Macy's. I got a CK, the other was some european brand, it was buy one get one free! Anyways, they tailored them at the store and I'm really happy with the purchase. I think it's a quality piece, but I don't know much about suits

[Killramos]

I don't wear suits to work ( i would get laughed out of the office or asked "So where is your interview today") but i get my custom work done at Harry Rosen ( premier menswear chain in Canada). Their Made To Measure ( not bespoke but as custom as most people get) is only 10% more on average than off the rack and you get alot more choice in fabrics etc. THey look a million times better especially if you are slightly off the normal body size metrics.

The key is having a rep and tailer who you can trust to point you in the right direction between MTM and off the rack. For some people custom won't look any better than off the rack so there is literally no point in going that direction. Most salesmen are to sleazy to admit that though hence the trust.

[P1]

Will you just roll to the office and then back home in your suits, or do you need a "road warrior" suit? I ask, because you need something a bit more durable if you fall into the latter category. That's why I refuse to spend $1K plus on them, since I'm hard on them. You're in taxis, airplanes, rental cars, restaurants, etc. Plus they get jammed into suitcases if you're travelling for more than a few days.

I must say the Suit Supply one I bought recently when I was passing through Atlanta has served me well. Took it to my tailor and he made it perfect. So far so good, and I'm hard on them...

[jlstyle]

I get tailored suit from mysuit.com. I usually buy low to mid end that costs me around $600 and they fit me perfectly and feels and lasts very long time.

[SunnyD]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

To me a business suit is different then a 'suit'. Fine suits like Brioni or some Zegna are fine for dinner, dates and events - great fabric and colors plus hand stitching and they fit perfect no pulling while being comfortable. But a business suit that goes on rotation and may need cleaning means a more durable fabric and probably off the shelf and less expensive.

I agree with this; there's a difference between a nice fitted suit to go out to dinner in vs. a suit worn in a business environment. I think the latter should tend to be more loose/comfortable, with more durable fabric for the regular dry cleaning runs.

[NocturnalEVO]

Suit Supply in the city, but go to the location near SOHO.
They have some of the newest/trendiest styles as well as some classic styles.

[tony20009]

Originally Posted by NY10

Where do you guys buy your suits from work?

Are they custom or off the rack? Do you think spending thousands on a good suit is worth it?

Red:

• Custom:
  • Poole
  • KF&S (now they just go by Kilgour)
• Off the rack (OTR):
  • Saks (various brands)
  • Neiman Marcus (various brands)
  • Stanley Korshack
  • John Varvatos
  • Kiton
  • Loro Piana
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Jos. A. Bank

Blue:
For both custom and OTR:

• In terms of value for dollar, no, not really.
• In terms of a given maker offering something -- cut, material, pattern -- that I haven't seen elsewhere, that I like and want, and that I am unwilling to looking "all over Hell's half acre" to find, yes.

For custom:

• In terms of fit, yes, but only insofar as I can afford it. I have plenty of OTR suits and jackets that fit quite well and that I'm very comfortable wearing. None of them fit quite as nicely as my custom garments, but the difference isn't so great that I insist on buying custom. Today, for example, I'm wearing a Jos. A. Bank sport jacket; it's perfectly fine.
• In terms of the garment being able to "flex" as my body shape changes, yes. (That my shape hasn't changed much in 30 years is beside the point. ) Custom garments, though made to fit your body shape "now," are also made so that they can be taken in or let out as needed given reasonable and foreseeable changes in one's body. OTR men's clothing isn't generally made with that in mind.
• In terms of having little "extras" built into the suit when it's made/designed, yes, insofar as the those things make the suits I wear when I must look my very best look perfect and dashing. "Extras" include:
  • Having linings made from the material and color of my choosing.
  • Having interior pockets with partitions and a closure flap installed for the rear section so that things I want to remain in there stay in there when I remove/replace other items that I need to access more often.
  • Having the fit of the suit made so the suit looks "right" when I have "stuff" in my pockets. For example, having a firmer piece of material sewn into the pockets so that when I put my keys in them, the bulge presses inward, toward my body rather than outward, thus marring the line of the suit.
  • Having functional sleeve buttons so that I can roll up the jacket sleeves when I want to wear the suit in a more casual way.
  • Not a feature I request, but some folks do....Having the jacket fitted so that one's holstered pistol doesn't show a bulge and ruin its line.
  • Having incorporated into the suit's design whatever else comes to mind and that the customer communicates to the tailor.
• In terms of emotionally feeling better while wearing it, yes. Like the convenience factors noted above, it's a matter of being able to afford to indulge myself that way, not a need to do so.

At the end of the day, I don't think there's much practical need to buy bespoke garments unless one's body has traits that manufacturers don't anticipate in the design of the OTR clothing they make. Other than being able to afford to buy bespoke suits and whatnot, I wouldn't. Being that I can, I sometimes do.

The topic isn't one that's come up with peers who also do, so I can't tell you whether they share my opinion. I can tell you that a few of them have sung the praises of their own tailors and have suggested I visit them. I'm content with my own, so I haven't. As with so many things, I don't fix what isn't broken.

All the best.

[sterile stork]

Originally Posted by tony20009

Red:

• Custom:
  • Poole
  • KF&S (now they just go by Kilgour)
• Off the rack (OTR):
  • Saks (various brands)
  • Neiman Marcus (various brands)
  • Stanley Korshack
  • John Varvatos
  • Kiton
  • Loro Piana
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Jos. A. Bank

Blue:
For both custom and OTR:

• In terms of value for dollar, no, not really.
• In terms of a given maker offering something -- cut, material, pattern -- that I haven't seen elsewhere, that I like and want, and that I am unwilling to looking "all over Hell's half acre" to find, yes.

For custom:

• In terms of fit, yes, but only insofar as I can afford it. I have plenty of OTR suits and jackets that fit quite well and that I'm very comfortable wearing. None of them fit quite as nicely as my custom garments, but the difference isn't so great that I insist on buying custom. Today, for example, I'm wearing a Jos. A. Bank sport jacket; it's perfectly fine.
• In terms of the garment being able to "flex" as my body shape changes, yes. (That my shape hasn't changed much in 30 years is beside the point. ) Custom garments, though made to fit your body shape "now," are also made so that they can be taken in or let out as needed given reasonable and foreseeable changes in one's body. OTR men's clothing isn't generally made with that in mind.
• In terms of having little "extras" built into the suit when it's made/designed, yes, insofar as the those things make the suits I wear when I must look my very best look perfect and dashing. "Extras" include:
  • Having linings made from the material and color of my choosing.
  • Having interior pockets with partitions and a closure flap installed for the rear section so that things I want to remain in there stay in there when I remove/replace other items that I need to access more often.
  • Having the fit of the suit made so the suit looks "right" when I have "stuff" in my pockets. For example, having a firmer piece of material sewn into the pockets so that when I put my keys in them, the bulge presses inward, toward my body rather than outward, thus marring the line of the suit.
  • Having functional sleeve buttons so that I can roll up the jacket sleeves when I want to wear the suit in a more casual way.
  • Not a feature I request, but some folks do....Having the jacket fitted so that one's holstered pistol doesn't show a bulge and ruin its line.
  • Having incorporated into the suit's design whatever else comes to mind and that the customer communicates to the tailor.
• In terms of emotionally feeling better while wearing it, yes. Like the convenience factors noted above, it's a matter of being able to afford to indulge myself that way, not a need to do so.

At the end of the day, I don't think there's much practical need to buy bespoke garments unless one's body has traits that manufacturers don't anticipate in the design of the OTR clothing they make. Other than being able to afford to buy bespoke suits and whatnot, I wouldn't. Being that I can, I sometimes do.

The topic isn't one that's come up with peers who also do, so I can't tell you whether they share my opinion. I can tell you that a few of them have sung the praises of their own tailors and have suggested I visit them. I'm content with my own, so I haven't. As with so many things, I don't fix what isn't broken.

All the best.

Mic drop.

Here in Portland (and Seattle) we have a small company, mario's, that caters to the stylish business, formal as well as social attire needs with brands such as Zegna, Prada, Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, etc.--not too helpful seeing that you're in NY; although they did partner with Mitchells recently which that may be an option.

Point being that small shops like these will often have their own facilities or working relationships with design houses that enable them to start their own line of suits. Mario's recently did this with their Rosso Sartoriale line and is having huge success while enabling each person to customize the small details to their own liking.

The most important thing is to have anything you acquire fitted to your stature. Grab a couple pieces that have some versatility and enable mix-and-matching between garments too!

[qspring]

The first thing I look at with a suit is the fabric quality. Get something with a good thread count. Super 120 or better will be durable, wrinkle resistant, and stain resistant. You can find these for under 1K or slightly over depending on the brand.

Fit is really what will make a suit look good or bad. A well tailored suit will stand out more than a baggy, expensive suit. If you are going to own suits, I suggest finding a good tailor as it is exceptionally rare for a suit to fit perfect off the rack. If you're going to buy something OTR, make sure the alterations are minor. Things I'd consider minor are hemming, taking in at the waist (jacket and pants), & inseam adjustments. Anything more can ruin the suit.

I agree with what a lot of other people have said on this thread. But to add on what I can share here are a few other things:

1. Stick with classic colors for business suits. Black, Navy, and Grey are staples in business suits. Owning three good pairs is better than 5 trendy cheap suits.

2. Make sure you're getting a suit that fits your body. Double vents are more complementary of certain body types than single vent. Lapels should be in similar width to your ties. Some OTR come in slim fit cuts to fit more snug.

3. Details matter. A mark of a good suit is if the sleeve buttons are functional. These are typically seen on high end or bespoke suits.

Hope this helps!

[qba335i]

I am a big fan of Brooks Brothers. Quality suits for a good price. I buy the 1818 series and usually pay ~$800+ when they go on sale (have to buy 2 of them). I have to wear a suit to work.

Of course you have to get it tailored. I would never wear a suit straight from a rack.

[tony20009]

Originally Posted by sterile stork

Mic drop.

Here in Portland (and Seattle) we have a small company, mario's, that caters to the stylish business, formal as well as social attire needs with brands such as Zegna, Prada, Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, etc.--not too helpful seeing that you're in NY; although they did partner with Mitchells recently which that may be an option.

Point being that small shops like these will often have their own facilities or working relationships with design houses that enable them to start their own line of suits. Mario's recently did this with their Rosso Sartoriale line and is having huge success while enabling each person to customize the small details to their own liking.

The most important thing is to have anything you acquire fitted to your stature. Grab a couple pieces that have some versatility and enable mix-and-matching between garments too!

To be honest, I buy the garments I buy largely because I encounter them and want them. I shop where I shop mainly out of habit and convenience. I wear a sport coat every day for work, but I only have to wear a tie and suit about twice a week. That gives me a lot of flexibility in terms of what I choose to wear to work.

The sorts of garments the OP asked about are, I suspect, what I consider to be just shy of being a uniform: conservatively tailored and patterned suits and sport jackets, tan, brown, black grey and blue pants, white and light blue shirts, etc. That sort of stuff is not the sort of clothing that I give a damn from where I get it. It just needs to get the job done.

Were I in Seattle, I'd gladly shop at Mario's. All it'd take for me to do so would be for them to have something in their window that catches my eye when I walk past their boutique.

Even though I tend to buy "posh" stuff, any place that sells "nice" stuff is sure to have something that I'd like and buy; I'm just not fussy enough to care "who makes what." At that point, it's just a matter of wanting or needing it. The way I am fussy is that I want what I want, and I won't pay for what I don't want. If I spill spaghetti, say, on my blazer and need to wear it tomorrow, and the cleaners can't have it back in time, I'll with no reservation dash into the closest store -- be it Walmart, the dollar store, a low, high or middle range boutique, or Neiman Marcus -- that has blazers and grab one. It'll be just fine no matter how "nice" it is or is not. Odds are I'll wear it, and be quite content with it, until I have to throw it away, if that point ever comes to be.

D.C. even has several great tailors, but even though D.C. is my hometown, I'm not in D.C. that much. (I'm not in NY.) It's actually has been more convenient for me to shop at tailors overseas or in NYC than it is to do so in D.C. That may change a bit now that all my kids are no longer in school in New England. I'll have to see, but if it does change, I'll pick a local tailor and likely be just as satisfied, I'm sure.

Take Varvatos. The only reason I buy stuff there is because when I'm in Los Angeles on business I stay in West Hollywood and I rather like eating at Ivy. The drive between the two places takes me right past Varvatos, so one day I stopped in and saw some stuff I liked, so I bought it. After that, I just go there first because I know I've gotten other stuff there that I like. The reality is that I'm not altogether impressed with Varvatos' construction quality -- sometimes it's good; sometimes it's not -- but I really like the look. When I'm in NYC, I don't bother to go to the Varvatos store there, and I don't ask for Varvatos when I'm in stores that might carry it.

Truly, a lot of my clothing shopping is driven by aesthetics, convenience, and serendipity. Once in a while, there's something I'm specifically seeking, but that's the exception not the norm. Besides, in regard to stuff that I consider elements of "the office uniform," a new or well maintained one costing $300 or less, and that has been very smartly altered to one's body shape, can look just as nice as a $1000K+ suit. The feel of the outer material won't be as luxurious, but why do we wear suits? So we look good, or so they feel good to other people who touch them?

All the best.

P.S.
I didn't understand the "mic drop" part of your remarks.

[sterile stork]

Originally Posted by tony20009

To be honest, I buy the garments I buy largely because I encounter them and want them. I shop where I shop mainly out of habit and convenience. I wear a sport coat every day for work, but I only have to wear a tie and suit about twice a week. That gives me a lot of flexibility in terms of what I choose to wear to work.

The sorts of garments the OP asked about are, I suspect, what I consider to be just shy of being a uniform: conservatively tailored and patterned suits and sport jackets, tan, brown, black grey and blue pants, white and light blue shirts, etc. That sort of stuff is not the sort of clothing that I give a damn from where I get it. It just needs to get the job done.

Were I in Seattle, I'd gladly shop at Mario's. All it'd take for me to do so would be for them to have something in their window that catches my eye when I walk past their boutique.

Even though I tend to buy "posh" stuff, any place that sells "nice" stuff is sure to have something that I'd like and buy; I'm just not fussy enough to care "who makes what." At that point, it's just a matter of wanting or needing it. The way I am fussy is that I want what I want, and I won't pay for what I don't want. If I spill spaghetti, say, on my blazer and need to wear it tomorrow, and the cleaners can't have it back in time, I'll with no reservation dash into the closest store -- be it Walmart, the dollar store, a low, high or middle range boutique, or Neiman Marcus -- that has blazers and grab one. It'll be just fine no matter how "nice" it is or is not. Odds are I'll wear it, and be quite content with it, until I have to throw it away, if that point ever comes to be.

D.C. even has several great tailors, but even though D.C. is my hometown, I'm not in D.C. that much. (I'm not in NY.) It's actually has been more convenient for me to shop at tailors overseas or in NYC than it is to do so in D.C. That may change a bit now that all my kids are no longer in school in New England. I'll have to see, but if it does change, I'll pick a local tailor and likely be just as satisfied, I'm sure.

Take Varvatos. The only reason I buy stuff there is because when I'm in Los Angeles on business I stay in West Hollywood and I rather like eating at Ivy. The drive between the two places takes me right past Varvatos, so one day I stopped in and saw some stuff I liked, so I bought it. After that, I just go there first because I know I've gotten other stuff there that I like. The reality is that I'm not altogether impressed with Varvatos' construction quality -- sometimes it's good; sometimes it's not -- but I really like the look. When I'm in NYC, I don't bother to go to the Varvatos store there, and I don't ask for Varvatos when I'm in stores that might carry it.

Truly, a lot of my clothing shopping is driven by aesthetics, convenience, and serendipity. Once in a while, there's something I'm specifically seeking, but that's the exception not the norm. Besides, in regard to stuff that I consider elements of "the office uniform," a new or well maintained one costing $300 or less, and that has been very smartly altered to one's body shape, can look just as nice as a $1000K+ suit. The feel of the outer material won't be as luxurious, but why do we wear suits? So we look good, or so they feel good to other people who touch them?

All the best.

P.S.
I didn't understand the "mic drop" part of your remarks.

My line was to concisely point-out that your first response was a conversation closer; an almost-encyclopedic reply that covered all the bases. I was being complimentary