Adding subwoofer to B&O??

[M60]

Hey guys

So I love my B&O system and think it's incredible but there's always room for improvement and I just want to add just a little more bass.

Have seen plenty of decent active/powered subwoofers with amp already built in that give an extra 600w rms so that's way more then I need and will do the job while keeping wires to minimal.

Question is of fitting has anyone done this??

I'm reading different posts online where some are having issues after having installed a sub where the active engine sound is playing through the sub etc causing issues and what not.

I contacted a local audio shop in London who said they will supply an lc2 cable something for £135 and splice in to the underseal woofers and then charge me £175 to fit the active subwoofer an that I will have no issues, does this sound right? Have any of you had any issues?

Many thanks

[Taheemr]

Let us know how you get on, i have the B&O, i thinks its quite poor for a system costing almost £4k, so would consider upgrading if the price is right.

The standard HK set up in my 7 series loaner was as good as the B&O in the M6, i suppose this shows how technology has moved on since the intro on the 6 series c2012/3.

Keep us posted

[M60]

Originally Posted by Taheemr

Let us know how you get on, i have the B&O, i thinks its quite poor for a system costing almost £4k, so would consider upgrading if the price is right.

The standard HK set up in my 7 series loaner was as good as the B&O in the M6, i suppose this shows how technology has moved on since the intro on the 6 series c2012/3.

Keep us posted

Hello mate,

Have you ran some good settings on your eq set up? As the B&O is heavily reliant on eq settings.. With the wrong settings it can sound rubbish and with the right it will sound brilliant, it's likely the loaner you drove was set up better as the B&O is double the power of the HK to begin with, I had the new 67 Reg lci cp m3 last week as a loaner which had the HK and it was good but I could tell my B&O was much better.

[speedracerlo]

you need this Ghost Subwoofer replacement
https://www.bavsound.com/BMW-Underse...oofer-Upgrades

[M60]

Originally Posted by speedracerlo

you need this Ghost Subwoofer replacement
https://www.bavsound.com/BMW-Underse...oofer-Upgrades

I have seen these and I'm definitely interested but the trouble is I can't find one person on earth who has an m6 with B&O and also has the ghost woofers to tell me if they are worth it..

If somone has them fitted even to a HK I'd love some feedback.

[mjposner]

I have the B & O and added a trunk mounted sub to help with the bass. The bass controller knob is inside my console.

[Taheemr]

Originally Posted by M60

Hello mate,

Have you ran some good settings on your eq set up? As the B&O is heavily reliant on eq settings.. With the wrong settings it can sound rubbish and with the right it will sound brilliant, it's likely the loaner you drove was set up better as the B&O is double the power of the HK to begin with, I had the new 67 Reg lci cp m3 last week as a loaner which had the HK and it was good but I could tell my B&O was much better.

for me the sound is very dependent on music type and i find myself continually adjusting to suit, agree its good, but im sure spending less than £4k on an aftermarket custom fit set up will be far better than the branded B&O, all this is academic of course as any future purchase would need to have premium sound set up.

[mjposner]

My set-up cost about $1k installed, a $300 sub, a Kicker $300 amp, and a case that fits underneath with the top up and down. I can adjust from inside the car.

[mastatikle]

I recently added a separate 12" incriminator audio death penalty sub to add to the B&O system. It's a built sub I had sitting around but does the job and sounds good. I have it seeing about 2000wrms from a audipipe 2200 amp and I keep the center ski pass open to enhance it inside the car.

Tbh I was going to re-do all the door speakers as well but couldn't decide the best route. You can easily and quickly spend $12,000+ doing this system the best way (DSP's, HIFI speakers, modifying speaker grills, amps, subs etc). The B&O system isn't that great at all. Can get a system twice as good for the same price. The staging is the only good part. The speakers themselves are garbage. It's a marketing thing really. Those aluminum grills mask much of the sound and muffle clarity.
If you're just looking for bass, a good solid 12" will do with ~1000wrms. It's a big cabin for the GC so get a good subwoofer. Too many options, depends on your price range and brand preference. Everything should be under $1000 depending on brands.

[M60]

Originally Posted by mjposner

I have the B & O and added a trunk mounted sub to help with the bass. The bass controller knob is inside my console.

Attachment 1710141

Attachment 1710142

That is great an thank you for the reply,

How did you go about fitting? Is it tapped in to the underseat connection via the lc2i thing and is your active sound all working as should be?

Thanks

[M60]

Originally Posted by mastatikle

I recently added a separate 12" incriminator audio death penalty sub to add to the B&O system. It's a built sub I had sitting around but does the job and sounds good. I have it seeing about 2000wrms from a audipipe 2200 amp and I keep the center ski pass open to enhance it inside the car.

Tbh I was going to re-do all the door speakers as well but couldn't decide the best route. You can easily and quickly spend $12,000+ doing this system the best way (DSP's, HIFI speakers, modifying speaker grills, amps, subs etc). The B&O system isn't that great at all. Can get a system twice as good for the same price. The staging is the only good part. The speakers themselves are garbage. It's a marketing thing really. Those aluminum grills mask much of the sound and muffle clarity.
If you're just looking for bass, a good solid 12" will do with ~1000wrms. It's a big cabin for the GC so get a good subwoofer. Too many options, depends on your price range and brand preference. Everything should be under $1000 depending on brands.

Thanks for the reply,

Can I also ask you whether you tapped in to the underseat sub connection via lc2i and do you have any issues with your active sound etc or any problems to report?

I imagine it sounds impressive with an additional 1000w rms.. I have an old kicker l7 1500w rms an directed 1500d amp sitting at my mothers still from many years back which used to pack a punch but might be over kill but will definitely find something branded an decent ie Jl audio etc.

[speedracerlo]

I'm very against putting aftermarket subwoofer boxes in the trunk. I like to keep my fold-down rear seats functional for just in case.

[mastatikle]

Originally Posted by speedracerlo

I'm very against putting aftermarket subwoofer boxes in the trunk. I like to keep my fold-down rear seats functional for just in case.

I'm very against using my luxury sedan as a suv or truck and packing the rear trunk to the max where folding the rear seats down is necessary. The amp sub can be disconnected at any time takes 2 seconds literally and the enclosure can be removed: doesn't take up much space to begin with.

[mastatikle]

Originally Posted by M60

Thanks for the reply,

Can I also ask you whether you tapped in to the underseat sub connection via lc2i and do you have any issues with your active sound etc or any problems to report?

I imagine it sounds impressive with an additional 1000w rms.. I have an old kicker l7 1500w rms an directed 1500d amp sitting at my mothers still from many years back which used to pack a punch but might be over kill but will definitely find something branded an decent ie Jl audio etc.

I didn't do the install personally. I brought it to a professional shop so it would look nice and neat and work right. But after watching them it really was rather easy and I should've done it myself and save the $300 (upcharged me 110 for just a $20 "amp wiring kit" they had on the shelf). They used a line output converter from the sub output on the amp that way the rear sub works with the with the cabin ones and also works with the different staging (studio/dynamic). No issues with sound at all. Only issue during install was finding an adequate "remote on" wire. The first one they found worked intermittently. The best source was an ignition power fuse from the panel in the trunk. If you ever want to turn off system just remove that fuse and amp stays off. Only issue after install I had is the sub was too much for the box and literally ripped itself and the screws away from the box last night (lasted a week). So I turned off the amp until i find or build a new box. Btw I'm running 2000wrms+ but it's set lower than usual on the LPF knob so it's filling in what the stock system is missing TREMENDOUSLY. If I turned the LPF up more then it would be a shxt ton more vibration, rattling and bass. Your choice. If you have a 4 door, that kicker and amp setup will be perfect. Just make sure you get good quality box. Sub facing trunk opening.
Lmk if you have any other questions. Once you do the sub you'll probably want to upgrade the door speakers next aha. It's a bad addiction but I use the audio more than any other feature.

[M60]

Originally Posted by mastatikle

I didn't do the install personally. I brought it to a professional shop so it would look nice and neat and work right. But after watching them it really was rather easy and I should've done it myself and save the $300 (upcharged me 110 for just a $20 "amp wiring kit" they had on the shelf). They used a line output converter from the sub output on the amp that way the rear sub works with the with the cabin ones and also works with the different staging (studio/dynamic). No issues with sound at all. Only issue during install was finding an adequate "remote on" wire. The first one they found worked intermittently. The best source was an ignition power fuse from the panel in the trunk. If you ever want to turn off system just remove that fuse and amp stays off. Only issue after install I had is the sub was too much for the box and literally ripped itself and the screws away from the box last night (lasted a week). So I turned off the amp until i find or build a new box. Btw I'm running 2000wrms+ but it's set lower than usual on the LPF knob so it's filling in what the stock system is missing TREMENDOUSLY. If I turned the LPF up more then it would be a shxt ton more vibration, rattling and bass. Your choice. If you have a 4 door, that kicker and amp setup will be perfect. Just make sure you get good quality box. Sub facing trunk opening.
Lmk if you have any other questions. Once you do the sub you'll probably want to upgrade the door speakers next aha. It's a bad addiction but I use the audio more than any other feature.

Brilliant information and thank you very much for the detailed reply, I will show this to the shop doing it, I don't want any mistakes or anything not working as it should after the install so I thought it best to check with somone who's did an done it so that's great.