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      09-27-2014, 04:52 PM   #1
Maxjake
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3 M film

Have always had it on my X5's and X6's. Thoughts on putting it on 2015 M6 GP?

Thanks
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      09-27-2014, 07:03 PM   #2
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I did on my M6.... and never regretted it... in truth.. the front of the M6 is rather flat...
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      09-28-2014, 02:54 AM   #3
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My M6 GC is fully wrapped in XPel Ultimate.

I think it's very well worth while unless stone chips don't bother you at all. The combinations of current water based paint, the shape, the performance and the materials (plastic and Aluminium) all contribute to making these cars very prone to paint chips.
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      09-28-2014, 04:10 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
My M6 GC is fully wrapped in XPel Ultimate.

I think it's very well worth while unless stone chips don't bother you at all. The combinations of current water based paint, the shape, the performance and the materials (plastic and Aluminium) all contribute to making these cars very prone to paint chips.
Hi Richard, I am thinking of doing the front (full) in Xpel when the car gets here.
Anyway how much do you think thats going to cost?.
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      09-28-2014, 04:19 AM   #5
RichardP
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I think it will be in the region of £1,500-£2,000 for the front end (bonnet, bumper, front wings, front of the mirrors), entire car was £5,550. I'd recommend getting the sills done too, they take quite a blasting from the front wheels, and the headlights in thicker film. You can't do the A pillars without a line unless you do the entire rear panel.
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      09-28-2014, 04:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
I think it will be in the region of £1,500-£2,000 for the front end (bonnet, bumper, front wings, front of the mirrors), entire car was £5,550. I'd recommend getting the sills done too, they take quite a blasting from the front wheels, and the headlights in thicker film. You can't do the A pillars without a line unless you do the entire rear panel.
£5500.00, not sure for the length of time I keep cars it would be worth it TBH.

I Need to give it some though, a front end respray would cost £1500 max by a top pro.
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      09-28-2014, 04:51 AM   #7
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I'd guess that the cost of the film for the front would be similar to the cost of a front end respray. Don't underestimate the cost of the bonnet, it's huge!

But :

- Without the film you'll get stone chips from day 1, you'll have to live with them until you get the respray.
- The film is guaranteed for 4 years against penetration. For me, I need a front end respray every 30,000 miles which is about 2 years. So the film becomes cheaper as soon as you've had the front end done.
- With modern water based paints, the quality of a respray is never the same as the factory paint. Even if it's perfect to start with, it's softer and will scratch and chip even more then the original paint.
- As the film is self healing for minor scratches, keeping the car looking good is a doddle, you don't need to worry about grit in your wash mitt scratching the paint or that bird shit will eat into the lacquer.

The down sides are that the edges of film are visible, they can catch the light, and there is a very, very slight texture to the surface of the film (it's no where near as bad as some BMW factory paint orange peel that I've seen).

I'd recommend a trip to paint shield in Peterborough, won't cost you anything except a bit of time and petrol, then you can make an informed decision.
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      09-28-2014, 04:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
I'd guess that the cost of the film for the front would be similar to the cost of a front end respray. Don't underestimate the cost of the bonnet, it's huge!

But :

- Without the film you'll get stone chips from day 1, you'll have to live with them until you get the respray.
- The film is guaranteed for 4 years against penetration. For me, I need a front end respray every 30,000 miles which is about 2 years. So the film becomes cheaper as soon as you've had the front end done.
- With modern water based paints, the quality of a respray is never the same as the factory paint. Even if it's perfect to start with, it's softer and will scratch and chip even more then the original paint.
- As the film is self healing for minor scratches, keeping the car looking good is a doddle, you don't need to worry about grit in your wash mitt scratching the paint or that bird shit will eat into the lacquer.

The down sides are that the edges of film are visible, they can catch the light, and there is a very, very slight texture to the surface of the film (it's no where near as bad as some BMW factory paint orange peel that I've seen).

I'd recommend a trip to paint shield in Peterborough, won't cost you anything except a bit of time and petrol, then you can make an informed decision.
Good point and it's not that far for me.
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      09-28-2014, 06:15 PM   #9
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PPF questions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardP View Post
I'd guess that the cost of the film for the front would be similar to the cost of a front end respray. Don't underestimate the cost of the bonnet, it's huge!

But :

- Without the film you'll get stone chips from day 1, you'll have to live with them until you get the respray.
- The film is guaranteed for 4 years against penetration. For me, I need a front end respray every 30,000 miles which is about 2 years. So the film becomes cheaper as soon as you've had the front end done.
- With modern water based paints, the quality of a respray is never the same as the factory paint. Even if it's perfect to start with, it's softer and will scratch and chip even more then the original paint.
- As the film is self healing for minor scratches, keeping the car looking good is a doddle, you don't need to worry about grit in your wash mitt scratching the paint or that bird shit will eat into the lacquer.

The down sides are that the edges of film are visible, they can catch the light, and there is a very, very slight texture to the surface of the film (it's no where near as bad as some BMW factory paint orange peel that I've seen).

I'd recommend a trip to paint shield in Peterborough, won't cost you anything except a bit of time and petrol, then you can make an informed decision.
I am going to fully wrap my Black Sapphire Metallic 2016 M6 F13 (once ordered and delivered) in XPel Ultimate PPF. Here are some questions:

- Do you apply anything to the film such that it repels water and keeps its 'slickness'?
- If any dirt/ bug remains are left on the film did you notice any imperfections (spots) in the film once the remains are removed?
- Do dirt and bugs come off easily?
- What do you use to remove them? Just water?
- Do you have any pictures/videos of your car you can share?
- How come you did not choose suntek?
- How long did it take to install? (I was told 2 x days by a vendor in Boca Raton, FL - http://www.autosupershield.com/)

Appreciate your feedback!
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      09-28-2014, 09:57 PM   #10
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You should keep the wraps waxed.. however you can ONLY use waxes that do not have any petroleum distillates, as the wrap uses petroleum distillates and if you use a wax that has them in there, it will cause them to yellow and cloud up.

I only wrapped the front fender, lights and my mirrors, and at 8000 miles traveling in very heavy construction zones, I don't have a single chip anywhere. The hood is too raked back to really get hit by a stone, unless it has a downward trajectory.. and even then I have had no issues. I detail my car about once every 2-3 days, so I would know if there were any issues. Save your money and just do the front and mirrors...
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      09-28-2014, 11:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FalconFlyer View Post
You should keep the wraps waxed.. however you can ONLY use waxes that do not have any petroleum distillates, as the wrap uses petroleum distillates and if you use a wax that has them in there, it will cause them to yellow and cloud up.

I only wrapped the front fender, lights and my mirrors, and at 8000 miles traveling in very heavy construction zones, I don't have a single chip anywhere. The hood is too raked back to really get hit by a stone, unless it has a downward trajectory.. and even then I have had no issues. I detail my car about once every 2-3 days, so I would know if there were any issues. Save your money and just do the front and mirrors...
I agree with FalconFlyer. I got the front, lights and mirrors wrapped in Xpel Ultimate. That's where you are going to get the most exposure on the car. Even this film will eventually display microscratching even though they claim it heals by itself.

I got it done for about $1000. They quoted me $1500-2k for the whole car.
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      09-29-2014, 02:40 AM   #12
RichardP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- Do you apply anything to the film such that it repels water and keeps its 'slickness'?
As already said, don't use anything with petroleum distillate, it will discolour the film. I use a liquid spray on wax (SwissVax Nano Express) to keep the film feeling slick. You can use a high quality wax, but you must be EXTREMELY careful to keep clear of the edges of the film. If you get wax on the edges it makes them very visible and tends to get under the film and causes the edges to lift. I apply a hard wax every 6 months or so, but mask off all the edges before applying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- If any dirt/ bug remains are left on the film did you notice any imperfections (spots) in the film once the remains are removed?
No I've not. But if a big bug or bird shit was left on for a while it would probably leave a temporary mark. Marks like this are supposed to self heal, waxing will help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- Do dirt and bugs come off easily?
Yes, very easily. However the film is prone to be statically charged which I find attracts fine dust.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- What do you use to remove them? Just water?
Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- Do you have any pictures/videos of your car you can share?
I've done nearly 14,000 miles so far but the car looks like new. I've had a couple of 'incidents' with the film, see later, but here are some pictures that show some of the edges

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The top surface of the mirror is not covered, you can feel rather than see the line where the film ends

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The front and rear bumpers are complex shapes to wrap, you can see a very small amount of lifting in the bottom left of this picture. The film can be peeled back, the glue 'washed' and then stuck back down.
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The headlight film is invisible, but again you can feel the edge of the film which is significantly thicker than the film on the paint.
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The area directly under the handles is not covered, so there are a couple of edges in the recess.
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I picked up a significant 'chip' on the bonnet over the winter, looks pretty bad close up
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And was quite noticeable even from a little distance away.
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The film was replaced and there is no sign of the mark. The paint was totally undamaged under the mark in the film. For me, that made it worth while wrapping the car, a chip that size (probably even bigger without the film) would drive me nuts!
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In June I got a big hit on the left side A pillar, it left 3 dents in the A pillar, but no mark in the film.
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I peeled back the film and the dents were pulled out
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The film re-applied and it's as good as new, you just can't tell.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- How come you did not choose suntek?
Not sure if it's available in the UK, the company I was recommended, PaintShield, uses XPel Ultimate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kris1858 View Post
- How long did it take to install? (I was told 2 x days by a vendor in Boca Raton, FL - http://www.autosupershield.com/)
They had the car for just over a week, normally it would not take so long, but they had to create the template for each piece from my car.
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