11-20-2013, 05:39 AM | #45 |
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NO hard braking bedding in, and NO brake squeal.
I brake normally and us the gear to slow down all the time, my trick is snow foam the car brakes and all leave then jet wash including the disks and calipers works for all my "M Cars" never ever had brake Squeal. Try it.
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11-20-2013, 08:56 AM | #46 |
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I was about to post proper break-in procedure until someone else did.
Many people try to fix the problem, when in realty they are making it worse. For example a frustrated driver will do some hard braking, then sit at a stop light when he is done. This just deposits brake material onto the rotors, causing squeal. I followed the bedding in procedure after I drove the car 200 miles (brake rotor/pad running in period) - and have never had any brake squeal from 200 miles on the ODO to now I have 5000 miles on the ODO.
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11-20-2013, 08:58 AM | #47 |
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Here's what I use:
You must properly bed in your brakes (break in procedure for breaks). Doing so will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, prevent brake judder, lower brake dust, and overall extend the life of your brakes. Brake pads and rotors that are brand new normally have a special coating on them to prevent rusting and corrosion while they are stored and shipped. Immediately after new rotors and or pads are installed you should drive normally for a while so that the brake pads can polish the rotors clean of any film. Avoid any sort of aggressive braking. It's extremely important that you do not start the bedding in process until after you have driven normally for long enough (around 70-100 miles to be safe) for the pads to polish the rotors clean. Once you are satisfied that all traces of the film is gone and your brakes are polished clean, you may start the bedding in process. Begin sometime in the early morning, in an area of very light or no traffic and be sure no cars are driving behind you as you will be braking in an unusual manner that others will not expect. Brake Bedding In Process: 1. Reach about 60mph and gently apply the brakes a few times in order to slowly bring your brakes up to their normal operating temperature. You want to ensure that you do not thermally shock the rotors and pads by skipping this step and starting this process with cold brakes. 2. Reach a speed of 60mph and aggressively brake down (hard) to 15mph. After braking down hard from 60-15, immediately bring the car back up to speed (60mph) and repeat for a total of ten aggressive near-stops. Do not substitute a higher speed as doing so will produce too much heat and create a negative result. Ensure that you absolutely do not come to a full stop, you only want to brake down to 10-15mph. If you come to a full stop and keep the brakes engaged, you could imprint pad material onto the rotors causing a negative result (vibration and uneven braking). While you want to brake hard from 60-15, you don't want to brake too hard to the point where the wheels lock and or the ABS system engages. You might start to feel some brake fading towards the end (7, 8 or 9th cycle) and smell the brakes, all of which is normal for the bedding in process. 3. After your last near stop (10th cycle), immediately bring your car back up to speed (above 50mph) and drive for about 5-7 minutes while using the brakes as little as possible. The goal here is to cool down your brakes. In order to do so, you need constant airflow and should stay off the brakes as much as you possibly can.. use engine braking as a substitute. Try to not become trapped in any scenario that requires you to come to a full stop. If you must come to a full stop, the best thing to do is to immediately let off the brakes once stopped (hopefully you are on level ground so you don't roll). 4. Optional: After you complete the cool down process, Perform an additional three-four near stop cycles, this time from 80mph to 15mph. Repeat three more times, then move onto the cool down process again to complete the bed in process. You should ensure that the brakes are cooled down before parking the car in order to prevent a negative result(s). You may or may not need to complete another bedding in cycle for a total of two bedding cycles. After you have cooled down the brakes, bring them back to normal operating temperature (as described in step one) and complete a second bedding cycle (steps 2-3). Once you have completed the above (after two full bedding cycles), you should notice a more firm pedal feel. Also, you may notice a very slight blue tint and grey film on the rotors. The blue film tells you that the rotors have reached break-in temperature and the grey film is brake pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor. These are both good indicators. The best braking performance occurs when there's an even layer of pad material deposited across the rotors. This will minimize or remove any squealing noise, increases braking torque, and maximize the life of the rotors and brake pads.
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03-22-2014, 05:55 PM | #48 |
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I bought mine with 3k miles and and the brake squeal is awful.
I am looking at buying carbotech low dust pads, I assume the bed-in procedure with these new pads will cure the squeal?
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03-22-2014, 09:24 PM | #49 |
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Happens to me too, very cold here in Ontario. Sound is super loud and embarrassing, didn't happen to my previous cars.
Does it happen to ceramic brakes too?
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03-22-2014, 11:06 PM | #50 |
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I had this happen in my E63 M6 and did a lot of complaining to my dealership about it, I don't remember how we got around to solving it. It hasn't happened on my F13 M6 yet, I have 3,800 miles in the odometer. I too wonder if CCB has this issue as well.
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03-23-2014, 02:43 AM | #51 |
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Ceramic brakes squeal a lot when they have been wet for a bit, for example just after washing the car. It just lasts a couple of gentle brake applications, if you brake hard a couple of times then you don't get the noise. Apart from that I've not had any squeal at all.
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04-15-2014, 04:56 PM | #53 |
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I installed the carbo tech low dust pads today, followed by bedding them in exactly as their site recommends.
The squeal is worse and the dust isn't any less than before. We even re-surfaced the rotors, waxed the wheels, everything. Getting frustrated now.
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04-17-2014, 10:48 AM | #54 |
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I have this as well.. nothing to do with the weather, happens in moderate 60s-80s all the time.
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04-19-2014, 03:23 PM | #56 |
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Issue has started to show up. Gets better if I slam on the breaks from around 60mph, but it ends up coming back a few days later.
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04-19-2014, 04:28 PM | #57 |
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I had this issue after Brake-in service at 1200 miles. dealer changed the rotors and pads. the problem solved for just one day then they ordered special pads and installed them again problem solved for few days Finally I accepted it is what it is bedding process, cleaning, daily hard braking are so useful and reduce or eliminate the issue, but temporarily...
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04-19-2014, 09:59 PM | #58 | |
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GMD,
Do you have a recommendation for a less aggressive pad? I figured the Carbotech low dust pads would be less aggressive. When doing the bedding in (hard braking from 70 down to 30) has anyone else felt the wheels skipping due to it? It did repeatedly for me, felt like thuds, nothing like any other ABS system I had felt. So we positioned someone near us to watch and the wheels would literally lock up and skip. They definitely are beasts for brakes. Just wonder if that means I am braking too hard? Either way, I asked may SA if it were reasonable to expect that the noise would go away. He said "yes" it should go away, so back to the dealer it goes on Friday. I am sorry, I am around Ferrari's, Lambo's, 911 Turbos, etc... all the time amongst our local group and none of their brakes squeal. I have a hard time believing it is due to the weight of our car. It is extremely embarrassing during city driving. Quote:
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04-19-2014, 10:09 PM | #59 | ||
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04-19-2014, 11:02 PM | #60 | |
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Thanks,
I have the low dust 1521 pads. I sure wish their bedding in instruction would say 60%, it just says hard, enough to get the rotors hot after 4 - 6 hard brakes. I guess, I take that to mean HARD! I will give these suggestions to the dealer and hope they get it figured out. These Ferrari owners drive theirs and drive them hard, contrary to most! We were out for a bit today even. Quote:
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09-02-2014, 10:38 AM | #61 |
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Brake Squeal
This is my first ever BMW. Have a Frozen Black '14 M6 Conv. The squeal is quite annoying and even worse, embarassing. As everyone has mentioned, it is at low speeds and 'coming to a stop'. Brake a little harder, get a little whiplash and the brakes stop squealing. This is not really possible in Boston traffic and I LOVE driving this car.
So far, I've had the rotors and brakes replaced, but that only lasted a day or 2. Back in the shop now and I'm not sure what they are doing. Wasn't sure if it was fully addressed but would it be better with ceramic brakes? |
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09-02-2014, 10:46 AM | #62 | |
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09-02-2014, 11:21 AM | #63 | |
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09-06-2014, 06:37 PM | #64 |
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I've got carbon ceramics in arizona ... low ambient temperature / high moisture are not the etiologies. I can't say that bedding them has made too much of a difference for me, but maybe I didn't let them cool properly after all the braking. I'm at 2500 miles and still have reliable squeaking at every stoplight and valet ... definitely the most annoying feature of this model.
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09-07-2014, 08:38 AM | #65 |
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My E64 had this problem and silicone fixed it for about 6mths at a time. My F12 and my buddy's F12 have horrible squeaking to the point where I'm not sure if passer's by are admiring the car, or wondering why I would purchase my brakes for such a high end car from wal-mart. The truth is 95% of people don't know that this happens with high performance brakes, but it's also annoying for us as drivers as well. I'll try the silicone on it when I get a chance and post the results. I've also been told dealer's can't do much. The best solution for the squeaking to go away is to opt for the B/O sound system.
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