Do I need a new battery?

[MoFoHo]

Hi all wise ones.
I've just spent the weekend fitting (or at least struggling to fit), a dashcam.
Running the hard wiring kit was a nightmare, getting the wire from the cabin into the trunk/boot especially, but I eventually managed to pass the wire through underneath the back seat, in a place where the first aid kit fits. After a LOT of faffing about and testing both days this weekend, I finally managed to get battery and accessory power to the device. A lot of the time, I admittedly didn't always have the engine running, but only 5/10 mins here and there, testing stuff.

But yesterday (Saturday) shouldn't count because every night, the big 6ix is put in my garage and connected to a Cetek battery tender.

So today, after finally getting stuff sorted, I noticed the car struggling a little to start, so I wisely backed the car back into the garage, and sure enough, on attempting to start it again, the battery was pretty much completely flat. It seemed that just a short while faffing about completely flattened the battery! So, luckily, I was able to put the car on the Cetek MXS-5.0 battery tender. An hour later, and the Cetek was showing a full house of lights (up to light 7 anyway) and the car fired right up. I was expecting the charger to take 24 hrs, at least, to accomplish this task! Yet it was fully charged in just over an hour. I think I read somewhere that this short charge cycle is indicative of a battery at the end of its life, is this true? There were no errors whatsover while the car was struggling to start BTW. Do I need to consider a new battery? The car is 9 years old, a 640d.
Any help please?

[Walt White Coupe]

How old is the battery?

[arucano]

Dashcams usually have hookup options. One is only switched power, which would not contribute to battery drain and some cameras have one of its connections go to "power always on" sources. This is usually to power up the camera if vibration is detected while ignition (switched power) is turned off. If you hook wire that is supposed to go to the switched power to permanent power, it will cause continuous battery drain. It should not drain your battery in just 24 hours however. If it does, your battery may be reaching end of life.

[MoFoHo]

Hi all, I'm not sure of the age of the battery, is there any way to tell?
It's one of those dashcams that indeed has 2 power feeds: one is 'accessory' (powered on after the car is started), the other is 'battery' (constant power).
The cam is a Blackvue DR770X. Whilst fiddling, I set the 'parking mode' to a maximum of 5 hours operation, and low battery cut off voltage of 12v. But I haven't even finished installing it yet. I've just managed to connect the 2 fuse taps, run the wire from the trunk/boot to the front of the car (which was a nightmare) and do a little testing. The camera is still in the box, awaiting installation on the windscreen.
I've often sat in the car with things powered on for a while, with no issues (for example some basic coding, & adjusting some sat nav settings). This is the only time I've flattened the battery.

[Qsilver7]

There are several mfg date indicators...some are easy to find and some are a bit more cryptic.

The easy ones are batteries that have a month/year sticker on them. The battery below was manufactured in Jan/2023



If you don't have a sticker..check the top of the battery posts to see if there is any numbers engraved on the top of the post. If you see 2 sets of numbers...the top number is the week and the bottom number is the year of mfg. IN the pic below...this battery was manufactured in the 16th week of 2012

[MoFoHo]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

There are several mfg date indicators...some are easy to find and some are a bit more cryptic.

The easy ones are batteries that have a month/year sticker on them. The battery below was manufactured in Jan/2023



If you don't have a sticker..check the top of the battery posts to see if there is any numbers engraved on the top of the post. If you see 2 sets of numbers...the top number is the week and the bottom number is the year of mfg. IN the pic below...this battery was manufactured in the 16th week of 2012

As always Mr Silver, you are a fountain of knowledge. Here's a pic of mine. So, 44th week of 2014? Pretty old and ripe for replacement? I wouldn't have a clue what battery to fit. The car is only typically used on a weekend, and sits in the garage on its tender through the week. I presume a new battery would need coding? An expensive job? I don't have Bimmerlink, but I have done some coding with Bimmercode, so I have the OBD dongle.

(sorry for the upsidedown picture! Doh!)

[Qsilver7]

That there is the big one...if you replace it for the same type...it will be an 95R/H9 battery class size.

But I do recommend checking around because your local BMW dealership may have the best price or be very competitive.

I replaced mine in Jan of this year and my local dealer was selling the 105 AH battery (the big one) for $233 (from the parts department)...with a $10 core return charge. With my BMW CCA discount I was out the door at $227.

When I called around locally for a 95R/H9 battery...everyone was between $239 - $325+...and all of them were only 100 AH batteries except for one sold by Batteries Plus. But they were also the most expense...$325).

If you do replace it yourself and you use a 95R/H9 battery...most will be between 100AH - 110AH...so you would not need to "code" the battery (if it is set for a 105AH battery).

But either way you go...you will need to REGISTER the battery. Since you don't have Bimmerlink...you may want to consider getting it so that you can register the replacement.

You would only need to "code" the battery if you dropped down to a smaller AH battery...like a 49/H8 battery which usually has between 90AH - 95 AH rating.

Good luck, the battery is not that difficult to change if you have a few tools and software to register (and/or) code if changing battery capacity.

[Qsilver7]

One more tip...be aware that the battery is vented...so hold on to the little black elbow that facilitates connecting the gray vent tube to the battery. Sometimes a new replacement get's lost or knocked off the battery.

And if you go aftermarket...and it has a protective covers on the battery post...look for a knock-out plug (built into one of the covers)...because you'll need that plug to use on the OPPOSITE side of the battery. This will prevent any gases created by the battery from escaping into the interior of your vehicle.

(little black elbow that connects the vent tube to the battery)


(little black plug that came with my BMW battery to insert into the vent hole on the opposite side of the vent tube)


Here's an example of a knock-out plug that the battery mfg designs into the battery post covers...many owners throw them away unknowingly:

[MoFoHo]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

That there is the big one...if you replace it for the same type...it will be an 95R/H9 battery class size.

But I do recommend checking around because your local BMW dealership may have the best price or be very competitive.

I replaced mine in Jan of this year and my local dealer was selling the 105 AH battery (the big one) for $233 (from the parts department)...with a $10 core return charge. With my BMW CCA discount I was out the door at $227.

When I called around locally for a 95R/H9 battery...everyone was between $239 - $325+...and all of them were only 100 AH batteries except for one sold by Batteries Plus. But they were also the most expense...$325).

If you do replace it yourself and you use a 95R/H9 battery...most will be between 100AH - 110AH...so you would not need to "code" the battery (if it is set for a 105AH battery).

But either way you go...you will need to REGISTER the battery. Since you don't have Bimmerlink...you may want to consider getting it so that you can register the replacement.

You would only need to "code" the battery if you dropped down to a smaller AH battery...like a 49/H8 battery which usually has between 90AH - 95 AH rating.

Good luck, the battery is not that difficult to change if you have a few tools and software to register (and/or) code if changing battery capacity.

Excellent stuff, many thanks! I'll certainly call my local BMW dealer tomorrow. Should I ever reject a battery if it's too old? Or would a dealer never try and palm off an older battery anyway? I'd rather just replace like for like, as long as it's the right type of battery (which I presume it is).

I'm going to presume that that battery is the original battery, and that I can safely assume a direct like for like replacement wouldn't need coding? Just registering (using Bimmerlink). If a battery DOES need coding, what application would be used? Not Bimmercode I presume...

[Qsilver7]

Bimmercode can “code” a battery…and its sister app Bimmerlink can “register” a new battery.

Registering a new battery is VERY easy if you use the BimmerLink app. Just pull up the 12v battery tab and simply click REGISTER NEW BATTERY tab that’s at the bottom of the screen (see pic below).

If you do decide to get it from your local BMW dealership…just ask them to give you a fresh or the “freshest” battery they have. That puts them on “notice” that you are “aware” and may reject it if they bring out an old battery. If all they have is batteries that are a month or two old…then they will be forced to look for the freshest one they have because they know you’ll be looking to ascertain its age.

[MoFoHo]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Bimmercode can “code” a battery…and its sister app Bimmerlink can “register” a new battery.

Registering a new battery is VERY easy if you use the BimmerLink app. Just pull up the 12v battery tab and simply click REGISTER NEW BATTERY tab that’s at the bottom of the screen (see pic below).

If you do decide to get it from your local BMW dealership…just ask them to give you a fresh or the “freshest” battery they have. That puts them on “notice” that you are “aware” and may reject it if they bring out an old battery. If all they have is batteries that are a month or two old…then they will be forced to look for the freshest one they have because they know you’ll be looking to ascertain its age.

Thanks once again! I mentioned to them that I wanted a 'fresh' battery and they assured me that they are all brand new, but I'd check anyway.

They quoted me just over £300 + £70 fitting which seems awfully steep! I'm not sure if it's worth shopping around some more?

I can get a 'Yuasa (?!) YBX9020 Start/Stop 12V 105AH 950A AGM' for £252 + £27 fitted from a local Halfords, for instance?

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by MoFoHo

Thanks once again! I mentioned to them that I wanted a 'fresh' battery and they assured me that they are all brand new, but I'd check anyway.

They quoted me just over £300 + £70 fitting which seems awfully steep! I'm not sure if it's worth shopping around some more?

I can get a 'Yuasa (?!) YBX9020 Start/Stop 12V 105AH 950A AGM' for £252 + £27 fitted from a local Halfords, for instance?

If you feel comfortable with Halfords doing the install...then they appear to have the best deal (in your case) for at least the battery.

It's not that difficult to install if you have a few tools. It may look daunting when you remove all the stuff to access the battery. But its not that difficult.

You need a few different socket sizes (I think it was something between 8mm through 13mm sockets) to remove the positive & negative battery cables. And an 8"/10" extension (sorry I'm not good with metric length sizes) to make it easier to access the bolts to loosen the battery hold down clamps.

Again, the positive battery cable looks complex, but its not. Just lift up 2 or 3 of the covers on the positive cable and loosen the nuts and the whole red thingy will lift off the positive battery post...the same on the negative post which has the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) and negative battery cable. Wrap the negative battery cable in a rag/towel/old sock to secure it from shorting out if it touches something metal while swapping the battery out.

Just loosen the hardware under the covers on the red thingy on the positive battery post in the green squares in the pic below...and I think you may need to do one under the flaps that have a green oval...no need to pull out any cables..and just loosen the nut on the negative cable to lift it and the IBS off:




Then there's two battery hold down clamps...one on the side closer to the trunk (which only needs to be loosened and not totally removed & one on the left side (this one needs to be removed)...using an extension comes in handy to loosen/remove these bolts:

[MoFoHo]

Many thanks for the info Mr Silver, once again! If I can source a battery at the weekend, I'll certainly give it a go! I have a Bluetooth OBD adaptor which I bought for coding. I presume this works with Bimmerlink too? And as you said, I ONLY need to code (with Bimmercode) if the capacity of the battery is different? But I MUST register the battery with Bimmerlink. This affects how the car charges the new battery or something? Does it change the charging characteristics as the battery ages?

[arucano]

Originally Posted by MoFoHo

Many thanks for the info Mr Silver, once again! If I can source a battery at the weekend, I'll certainly give it a go! I have a Bluetooth OBD adaptor which I bought for coding. I presume this works with Bimmerlink too? And as you said, I ONLY need to code (with Bimmercode) if the capacity of the battery is different? But I MUST register the battery with Bimmerlink. This affects how the car charges the new battery or something? Does it change the charging characteristics as the battery ages?

Check the bimmercode/bimmerllink site. Not all obdII readers work with the app.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by MoFoHo

...But I MUST register the battery with Bimmerlink. This affects how the car charges the new battery or something? Does it change the charging characteristics as the battery ages?

Yes...a new battery ALWAYS needs to be registered when installed. And if you have the BimmerLink app...it does have the capability to register a new battery.

[Qsilver7]

Oops...I forgot to mention that the metal pieces you see in the center of the red thingy over the positive battery post...needs to be released, too. Its simple to figure out....they slide outward a little.

[MoFoHo]

Hi all. Just an update. I managed to find a really great deal, using Halfords 'Tyres on the drive' service. £241, fitted. That's actually cheaper than just the battery bought in store! So I couldn't really pass it up. Would have been even cheaper if I hadn't specified a morning slot. Battery is a Yuasa YBX9020. They guy was great, and we both did the work together last Saturday morning. I'm actually glad I went this option, as just getting the rear trim off was a bit of a headache! He registered the battery, and then checked the right battery was coded anyway. I was also careful to make sure the battery vent was done too, I would never have even noticed that if it wasn't mentioned here!

[Qsilver7]

Thanks for the update. Glad you got it all sorted out.