Headlight Restoration? (Tiny cracks)

[xidamaaa]

I found out that my car’s headlights are pretty significantly oxidized with these tiny cracks. Not sure what this is called(oxidation? Crazing?). But it makes the headlights look bad. Wondering if anyone has experience dealing this this.

I tried using a headlight restoration kit from turtle wax but didn’t really work. Maybe it’ll take a lot more sanding and polishing? It’d be great if anyone has any advice on this.

[Luftpost]

For those headlight restoration kits to be effective, you need to sand to or below the deepest pit or crazing. That requires the proper steps and technique. I would highly recommend you watch some YouTube videos on this.

From the looks of your photos, this should be doable.

Let us know how it works out.

L

[Ralph III]

Originally Posted by xidamaaa

I found out that my car’s headlights are pretty significantly oxidized with these tiny cracks. Not sure what this is called(oxidation? Crazing?). But it makes the headlights look bad. Wondering if anyone has experience dealing this this.

I tried using a headlight restoration kit from turtle wax but didn’t really work. Maybe it’ll take a lot more sanding and polishing? It’d be great if anyone has any advice on this.

Hello Xidamaaa,
I managed a detail business for 14 years, so I can help you out. Just so you understand what is going on. Headlights, just as paint, have a protective UV layer applied to them. Upon aging, this clear coat will begin to fade/yellow/crack. Otherwise, yours appears to be suffering from a type sandblasting which can occur to BMW windshields also, given they are soft.

So, depending on how bad the headlights are you can do one of the following.

1) For light fading/cracking: Wet sand the headlights with 1500 and then 2000 grit sandpaper. The automotive stores sell sanding blocks in those grits, btw. Expect to spend 3 minutes or so sanding with 1500 and then the 2000 grit. I typically spend a little more time with the finer grit sandpaper in order to reduce/minimize the larger sanding marks. Your headlights should look quite a bit better at this point. However, go ahead and buff them out with a light to medium cut compound. Be sure to use the buffer at a lower rpm, which is all that is necessary. Don't run the buffer at a high rpm and a heavy cut compound (unless you know what you are doing) because you can burn the plastic.

In this instance, you're taking a non aggressive approach by only sanding down the upper surface of the clear coat. If you have plenty of clear left on it, you should be good for several more years. The next time it fades/yellows/cracks though, you'll need to use step 2.

2) If your headlight lenses are in really poor shape, then wet sand them with 200, 400 and then 600 grit sandpaper. Once you are satisfied with the results, you will then need to spray them with a clear coat. I typically just use Spray Max 2k clear in a spray can for this.

You may desire to follow up later by wet sanding with a fine sandpaper (as above) followed by a light buffing. This will help level it even more if you didn't fully level it in the initial process.

I uploaded a video that you can watch HERE.

God Bless,
Ralph

P.S. You don't have to be a pro to do any of the above. Just spend a little time on the headlights and evaluate your progress.

[TinCanSailor]

I did mine not too long ago and they turned out great. Like Luftpost and Ralph III indicated it is all about the steps. Watch some good starter videos on YT, buy some 200 to 3000 grit sandpaper and polish. Place some drop cloth over the engine bay, put on some good music, tape things off really well and get to work. Don't be afraid to work beyond the cracking but be mindful to not focus too long on one area.

[xidamaaa]

Originally Posted by Ralph III

Hello Xidamaaa,
I managed a detail business for 14 years, so I can help you out. Just so you understand what is going on. Headlights, just as paint, have a protective UV layer applied to them. Upon aging, this clear coat will begin to fade/yellow/crack. Otherwise, yours appears to be suffering from a type sandblasting which can occur to BMW windshields also, given they are soft.

So, depending on how bad the headlights are you can do one of the following.

1) For light fading/cracking: Wet sand the headlights with 1500 and then 2000 grit sandpaper. The automotive stores sell a sanding block with those grits on each side, btw. Expect to spend 3 minutes or so sanding with 1500 and then the 2000 grit. I typically spend a little more time with the finer grit sandpaper in order to reduce/minimize the larger sanding marks. Your headlights should look quite a bit better at this point. However, go ahead and buff them out with a light to medium cut compound. Be sure to use the buffer at a lower rpm, which is all that is necessary. Don't run the buffer at a high rpm and a heavy cut compound (unless you know what you are doing) because you can burn the plastic.

In this instance, you're taking a non aggressive approach by only sanding down the upper surface of the clear coat. If you have plenty of clear left on it, you should be good for several more years. The next time it fades/yellows/cracks though, you'll need to use step 2.

2) If your headlight lenses are in really poor shape, then wet sand them with 200, 400 and then 600 grit sandpaper. Once [...]

Ralph, thank you so so much! This a fantastic piece of info. Do you think this is something doable without a drill? Or it’s just going to take a long time without the drill?

[Ralph III]

Excellent TinCanSailor! Just as a personal note. My Dad served on a "TinCan" during the Korean war. We appreciate your service! Ralph

[Ralph III]

Originally Posted by xidamaaa

Ralph, thank you so so much! This a fantastic piece of info. Do you think this is something doable without a drill? Or it’s just going to take a long time without the drill?

Hey xidamaa. You don't have to use a drill or buffer. I'm so accustomed to using mine though in part because it does make the process faster. If you don't have a buffer, just finish up with a very fine 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper. At that point, you can apply some compound afterward with just your hand, if desired.

The main thing is, note your progress. Ex) If the 400 grit sandpaper is not making good progress then drop down to 200 grit (etc). You've got to remove the imperfections and level the surface. At that point, you want to follow up with finer and finer sandpaper or apply a clear coat, depending on which process you decide to do.

BTW, the lens will not look fully clear until you actually apply the clear coat (as with step 2) or finish up with very fine sandpaper/compound (as with step 1). So, it depends on how bad your lenses are and what steps you take, as to how long it will take. It may take me 5 minutes per lens or it may take me 1 hour per lens. If it takes any longer than that, then you probably needed to be a little more aggressive in the beginning. That doesn't really matter though. All that matters is how you finish. I've done so much wet sanding, painting, and buffing, that I quickly know how aggressive to be from the beginning. FYI, the tip TinCanSailor gave in regards to taping off the car is a good tip. I didn't do so in my video because I was wet sanding and buffing my entire 4 Runner. So, there was nothing to protect.

Ralph

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by Ralph III

Excellent TinCanSailor! Just as a personal note. My Dad served on a "TinCan" during the Korean war. We appreciate your service! Ralph

Right on. It was a pleasure and an honor. Not many folks know the reference. I sincerely appreciate his service, those were some very gritty days back then.

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by Ralph III

Hey xidamaa. You don't have to use a drill or buffer. I'm so accustomed to using mine though in part because it does make the process faster. If you don't have a buffer, just finish up with a very fine 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper. At that point, you can apply some compound afterward with just your hand, if desired.

The main thing is, note your progress. Ex) If the 400 grit sandpaper is not making good progress then drop down to 200 grit (etc). You've got to remove the imperfections and level the surface. At that point, you want to follow up with finer and finer sandpaper or apply a clear coat, depending on which process you decide to do.

BTW, the lens will not look fully clear until you actually apply the clear coat (as with step 2) or finish up with very fine sandpaper/compound (as with step 1). So, it depends on how bad your lenses are and what steps you take, as to how long it will take. It may take me 5 minutes per lens or it may take me 1 hour per lens. If it takes any longer than that, then you probably needed to be a little more aggressive in the beginning. That doesn't really matter though. All that matters is how you finish. I've done so much wet sanding, painting, and buffing, that I quickly know how aggressive to be from the beginning. FYI, the tip TinCanSailor gave in regards to taping off the car is a good tip. I didn't do so in my video because I was wet sanding and buffing my entire 4 Runner. So, there was nothing to protect.

Ralph

Agreed on the dropping of the grit.

It might seem counter intuitive to step down to a more "destructive" grit esp after you get up to an 800 or 1000 but it is a very easy process albeit a bit time consuming. Just don't rush yourself.

If the lenses were previously ceramic coated you may have to spend a little more time on them but you can get through it and the finish will be like new.

[Ralph III]

Originally Posted by TinCanSailor

Agreed on the dropping of the grit.

It might seem counter intuitive to step down to a more "destructive" grit esp after you get up to an 800 or 1000 but it is a very easy process albeit a bit time consuming. Just don't rush yourself.

If the lenses were previously ceramic coated you may have to spend a little more time on them but you can get through it and the finish will be like new.

That's correct. A lot of people cannot wrap their head around using sand paper to make such corrections. The courser sandpaper just speeds the process up by removing imperfections and leveling faster. Otherwise, by the time you work up to 2000 or 3000 grit paper, you are nearly at the point of polishing. You can then finish up with an actual polish, if desired.

If you are going to apply a clear coat though, you shouldn't go any finer than 600 grit typically. If you go any finer, the clear may not adhere adequately and lead to early failure. Otherwise, the clear coat will fill in the 600 grit scratches no problem.

God Bless,
Ralph

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by Ralph III

That's correct. A lot of people cannot wrap their head around using sand paper to make such corrections. The courser sandpaper just speeds the process up by removing imperfections and leveling faster. Otherwise, by the time you work up to 2000 or 3000 grit paper, you are nearly at the point of polishing. You can then finish up with an actual polish, if desired.

If you are going to apply a clear coat though, you shouldn't go any finer than 600 grit typically. If you go any finer, the clear may not adhere adequately and lead to early failure. Otherwise, the clear coat will fill in the 600 grit scratches no problem.

God Bless,
Ralph

That would explain why I had issues with one of my headlight taking the clear. I did go higher on both but one dried with a bit of an orange peel texture. I had to sand that off but it did apply better the second time. It was a real punch in the gut to have to redo it. Wish I had known this before you can bet I won't repeat that mistake again.

Appreciate the tip.

[xidamaaa]

Originally Posted by Ralph III

Hey xidamaa. You don't have to use a drill or buffer. I'm so accustomed to using mine though in part because it does make the process faster. If you don't have a buffer, just finish up with a very fine 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper. At that point, you can apply some compound afterward with just your hand, if desired.

The main thing is, note your progress. Ex) If the 400 grit sandpaper is not making good progress then drop down to 200 grit (etc). You've got to remove the imperfections and level the surface. At that point, you want to follow up with finer and finer sandpaper or apply a clear coat, depending on which process you decide to do.

BTW, the lens will not look fully clear until you actually apply the clear coat (as with step 2) or finish up with very fine sandpaper/compound (as with step 1). So, it depends on how bad your lenses are and what steps you take, as to how long it will take. It may take me 5 minutes per lens or it may take me 1 hour per lens. If it takes any longer than that, then you probably needed to be a little more aggressive in the beginning. That doesn't really matter though. All that matters is how you finish. I've done so much wet sanding, painting, and buffing, that I quickly know how aggressive to be from the beginning. FYI, the tip TinCanSailor gave in regards to taping off the car is a good tip. I didn't do so in my video because I was wet sanding and buffing my entire 4 Runner. So, there was nothing to protect.

Ralph

Ralph,
Appreciate the advice here. Super informative!! I’m going to get the supplies and update you all on my progress. Thanks again!!!

[xidamaaa]

Originally Posted by TinCanSailor

Agreed on the dropping of the grit.

It might seem counter intuitive to step down to a more "destructive" grit esp after you get up to an 800 or 1000 but it is a very easy process albeit a bit time consuming. Just don't rush yourself.

If the lenses were previously ceramic coated you may have to spend a little more time on them but you can get through it and the finish will be like new.

Appreciate your input here! From the pics you posted on Instagram, my conditions are pretty much the same as yours. I’m going to get supplies and update my progress. Thanks again!!

[FlyinLowSD]

To Tincan Sailor- I got it at “battle buddy”. Ooh-rah from SD.
Happy sanding gents. Makes for a world of difference.

[TinCanSailor]

Originally Posted by FlyinLowSD

To Tincan Sailor- I got it at “battle buddy”. Ooh-rah from SD.
Happy sanding gents. Makes for a world of difference.

SD is a great town, love the views from Cabrillo National Monument.

[Opie55]

I have done this several times on different cars. Based on your photos, I don't think you will get away with saving the clear coat. But no harm in trying. You can always go back to being more aggressive. Start with 1500, then go to 2000 and at least 2500. Then you really need an orbital polisher, but you can do it by had with enough elbow grease. I uses my go to compound, M105. The only thing I disagree with above is the suggestion to start with 200 paper if you are removing the clear coat. That's too coarse IMO and it will take forever to remove those scratches with finer grits. I have found that 320 is the best starting place. All the papers are the wet/dry kind you can soak in water. You will need lots of water.

[rorz12]

Originally Posted by xidamaaa

I found out that my car’s headlights are pretty significantly oxidized with these tiny cracks. Not sure what this is called(oxidation? Crazing?). But it makes the headlights look bad. Wondering if anyone has experience dealing this this.

I tried using a headlight restoration kit from turtle wax but didn’t really work. Maybe it’ll take a lot more sanding and polishing? It’d be great if anyone has any advice on this.

You could also consider buying new headlight lenses to restore the "new" look from somewhere like Aliexpress

[cortega]

I hope this is the solution for mine

[AndyTiskF06]

Let me know how that goes, mine are a tiny bit better shape than the last picture, but not by much

[PhantomXone]

Mine looked exactly like yours and I tried the headlight restoration kits and it made it look ok for while but then it started to turn yellowish at the top and the whole headlight started to get hazy. Hated it so I ended up taking the headlights out and sending it to a body shop for them to sand down and re-clear the whole thing to make it look new again.

[Opie55]

What did the body shop charge to do that?

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by cortega

I hope this is the solution for mine

That is your clear coat shrinking. They can be made to look brand new. The restoration kits sold in auto parts stores are no good whatsoever for this type of thing. The top coat has to sanded off. I can do a headlight in about an hour, but you have to be pretty diligent to make sure you completely sand out the prior scratches with next finer grit. I place precut pieces in a bucker of clean water and have a couple of dry rags. I use 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000. By the time you get to 2500 the lenses are pretty clear already and have a satin glow. Once you are done sanding they will buff to like new with very little effort because 3000 grit scratches are so fine. Takes only a minute if you have an orbital buffer and a foam pad and a compound like M105.