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      05-22-2023, 10:16 PM   #9
TinCanSailor
Fueled by Recycled Dinosaurs!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph III View Post
Hey xidamaa. You don't have to use a drill or buffer. I'm so accustomed to using mine though in part because it does make the process faster. If you don't have a buffer, just finish up with a very fine 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper. At that point, you can apply some compound afterward with just your hand, if desired.

The main thing is, note your progress. Ex) If the 400 grit sandpaper is not making good progress then drop down to 200 grit (etc). You've got to remove the imperfections and level the surface. At that point, you want to follow up with finer and finer sandpaper or apply a clear coat, depending on which process you decide to do.

BTW, the lens will not look fully clear until you actually apply the clear coat (as with step 2) or finish up with very fine sandpaper/compound (as with step 1). So, it depends on how bad your lenses are and what steps you take, as to how long it will take. It may take me 5 minutes per lens or it may take me 1 hour per lens. If it takes any longer than that, then you probably needed to be a little more aggressive in the beginning. That doesn't really matter though. All that matters is how you finish. I've done so much wet sanding, painting, and buffing, that I quickly know how aggressive to be from the beginning. FYI, the tip TinCanSailor gave in regards to taping off the car is a good tip. I didn't do so in my video because I was wet sanding and buffing my entire 4 Runner. So, there was nothing to protect.

Ralph
Agreed on the dropping of the grit.

It might seem counter intuitive to step down to a more "destructive" grit esp after you get up to an 800 or 1000 but it is a very easy process albeit a bit time consuming. Just don't rush yourself.

If the lenses were previously ceramic coated you may have to spend a little more time on them but you can get through it and the finish will be like new.
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